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Flathead Engine stand - from scrap

e-tek

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Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
I have a '46 flathead for my Merc 1/2ton - the one that cracked it's block - that's been sitting in the corner awaiting parts. Although the Merc is running under the power of a 56 Flatty I swapped in, I want to get 'er back to year-correct status when I can (or at least have the engine ready for when I need it!)

So, since I got the parts for the engine and I had a bunch of scrap lying around, I thought I'd make myself a new stand - specifically for flatty's.

The base is courtesy of BendPak! It's made from the end-piece that held the ramps and legs together for shipping my lift. Never throw anything away!

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I had these casters sitting in a box for a couple years...finally something to use them on!!

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Next, I measured and cut the various bits of scrap, using my other engine stand as a template:

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Time for some welding. I notched the upright square tube to accept the round stock and give it a place to sit, which strengthens the weld:

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For the flatthead, it's best to attach the engine at the exhaust manifold, rather than the weak 1/2 bellhousing. So I welded this plate to the tube that will swivel.

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I eyeballed up the exhaust holes and drilled them on the drill-press. I must've been drunk 'cause I had to file a couple to fit....

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Then I mated up the pieces and drilled some holes, first through the top of the outer tube and into the inner to lock it in position, then I turned the block-plate over and drilled another hole, this time using the same outer hole and into a new hole, so I can turn the engine and lock it upside down.

Then I bolted the block-plate onto the block and prepared to lift the block to mate the pieces together...

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Unfortunately (for me as usual!), I lent my FIL my lifting straps and they have yet to come back....Oh well, it's family....so I had to use this chunk of nylon rope instead...

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And WALA - new engine stand...total cost: $4.00 in scrap metal, maybe $20 for casters (I think, 'cause either I bought them a while back, or stripped them off something else), some mig wire, gas and my time....pretty cheap!!

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I saw another GJ fabricator weld an old socket onto the end of his in order to accept a breaker bar for turning the engine over on the stand. So other than that (and maybe some POR15), she's done! Thanks for looking!

Except for, looking at this view, I have the block-plate on upside down. If I flipped it over, the block would be level....%$&# d'oh!!....Oh well, there's always tomorrow!

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rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,557
Location
visalia ca
I have all the 'correct' stuff for doing the valves the right way in those old flatheads

bob
 

v7guy

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Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
557
Location
Hudson valley, NY
For a few years now I've wanted to build a flattie. don't even have anything to put one in. lol

Looks like a real nice stand
 
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E

e-tek

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Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
I was begining to wonder when or if this project was going to happen.
Looking good.

Yikes, talk about pressure!!!:wtf: Someone in Australia is waiting for things to happen in my shop!!! :lol_hitti :lol_hitti

There's a quite a few reasons for it being on the wait list, not least of which was parts and it being winter and that the truck is running....but I do hate to have things sit for years. So even if I can get half-a-days work on one of my ongoing projects every so often, at least it moves forward! Plus it gives me a break from long-term resto's like the 56 Chevy I've been on since September!

Anyone else do that?
 
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transplant_wi

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Jul 30, 2010
Messages
191
Location
Madison, WI
Thanks for taking the time on the tutorial - it looks great, simple and elegant.

As a new welder I don't yet have an intuitive feel for how strong a joint can be, like a the base of the upright post. Any rules of thumb for a noob? In my ignorance I might fret unneccessarily about the 'prying' action of the block's weight on that particular joint.
 

Brad54

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Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
4,646
You know how many guys would love to have a set of casters just "sitting around" Lmao :beer:

I only say that cause I need them for a storage box.

I scarf up casters at garage sales and swap meets for exactly that reason. I've got a small tub full of different sizes so I have them when I get a wild hair for a project.

-Brad
 
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e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Thanks for taking the time on the tutorial - it looks great, simple and elegant.

As a new welder I don't yet have an intuitive feel for how strong a joint can be, like a the base of the upright post. Any rules of thumb for a noob? In my ignorance I might fret unneccessarily about the 'prying' action of the block's weight on that particular joint.

A properly integrated weld will be "at least" as strong as the parent metal. If you know the bend-strength of your piece, you'll know how much weight it can handle. In the end though, experience and intuition is your guide to how much a weld, a series of welds, or an overall structure will hold. If you look at it, I could have just welded the square tube to the base piece without any gussetting, but I didn't think that'd hold the weight, as I guess-timated the shear-strength was going to be about 3-4 times the weight of the engine. Adding those 1" square bits and welding them solid gave me that strength.

Not sure if that answered your question properly - but if ever in doubt - just build it stronger than you think is right!!
 

transplant_wi

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Jul 30, 2010
Messages
191
Location
Madison, WI
Thanks e-Tek, that was helpful - I tend to overbuild anyway, and after your description above, I better understand the strengthening at the base.

Hotfr8 - thanks for the link, your trolley looks great.
 
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