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Flex head ratchets - Why?

bwringer

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I use flex head ratchets all the time. I however do not understand the obsession for roto-head (swivel) ratchets. I have a few, and just don't like them, so I rarely if ever use them.

I use 1/4" drive rotos alllllllllllllllll the time. In fact, I have at least four (the cheapies from HF are fine, just fine...). One is permanently loaded with a 10mm deep, and one or two others get 8mm and/or 12mm, depending on what I'm up to.

That said, I don't think 3/8" or 1/2" drive rotos are very useful at all. When you're getting into higher levels of torque, it's harder to keep the force properly aligned. Plus, the round heads are more often too large and unwieldy.
 
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Chrome Vanadium Cody

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That said, I don't think 3/8" or 1/2" drive rotos are very useful at all. When you're getting into higher levels of torque, it's harder to keep the force properly aligned. Plus, the round heads are more often too large and unwieldy.
I have a sk 3/8” drive roto and like it but don’t use it much. What I use a ton is a plain steel handle Snap On 3/8” drive in 1/4” body roto I made with a 739 series rebuild kit. Not for high torque stuff but works great and it’s small enough to actually use. Only Snap On ratchet I’ve kept and one of my favorites overall.
 

dscheidt

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Perhaps it varies by model, but with locking flex heads, are they always locked? Like the locking lever is spring loaded to always move to the lock position?

If the locking lever is free floating it seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Locked when you want, free when you don't.
Depends on the model. The snap on ones I have a slide switch, slide down and it flexes, let it go it snaps back, and locks in that position (or the next indexing position it goes through, if it's not lined up with on. slide down and then over, it stays there, and it flexes freely. Most of the ones I've used have worked like this, with differences in how to use the switch, but I've used others that only lock when the slide is released and have no free flex position.

I mostly use mine in the first position, because it provides knuckle clearance, but I'll use them as a speeder, turning the handle to or near 90.
 

seber

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The 3/8 ratchets I use are two long flex, two standard flex and a stubby flex. The fixed standard, fixed stubby and the rotary sit in the drawer unused. None of my flex are locking. All my rats are stored with three inch extensions as that is almost always the right thing.
 

four.cycle

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308guru said:
I see a lot of people mention flex head ratchets as their go-to or favorites. I don’t have any, never used them.
What’s the allure? What is the application they seem to be the most used or useful?

I probably own at least 20 of them, if not more, in various brands.
I have never used one myself - I just never got into a situation where one was required.

I've given several of them away - one to a young man who's a member here last year (a 4150 ProAmerica 3/8" drive) and one to another young man here locally (same ProAmerica model). Report from the GJ member was pretty favorable: he got the job done, but only after snapping off a 3/8-16 bolt with it (which I found rather surprising myself.) Report from the other recipient was more enthusiastically favorable (e.g., "We would not have gotten those plugs changed without that thing.")

I suppose it all depends upon what sort of work you're doing, and how much elbow room you've got while doing it.

(If somebody's looking for a 1/2" drive model I've got a 3270 Indestro basket case here cheap if you want to do the "fixit" work.)
 

sparky 1971

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Perhaps it varies by model, but with locking flex heads, are they always locked? Like the locking lever is spring loaded to always move to the lock position?

If the locking lever is free floating it seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Locked when you want, free when you don't.
I don't know about all of them, but the Mac Axis is always locked. That's my one complaint about my 1/2" drive. I also have Gearwrench 84t lockers and they can be unlocked.
 

Wrench97

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Perhaps it varies by model, but with locking flex heads, are they always locked? Like the locking lever is spring loaded to always move to the lock position?

If the locking lever is free floating it seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Locked when you want, free when you don't.
I have both in Snap On and tend to use the non-locking the most.
I also have a Matco locking while I much prefer the locking mechanism better then the Snappy I still grab the non-locking snappy first
Locking comes in handy in hard to reach places where you can set the head at a fixed angle and get the socket on the head of the bolt by just using the end of the handle.
 

ronkz650

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I didn't see any reason to get a Roto, as most have a big fat drive that could interfere, but got the KTC BRSW3 3/8 drive in regular and long, and really like them, then got the cheap 1/4" Titan roto in both regular and long. I really like these ratchets as it puts your angle right on top of the bolt when flexed instead of 2-3" out, plus as mentioned, can be at 180 degrees to the bolt for quick and easy removal a lot of the time.
 

ChevyEFI

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I used the SK 3870 from a young age. The "flops around" never felt abnormal, it was my normal.

Getting an angle in confined space always felt easiest with a roto. EGR against firewall? Roto right in there.

Generally, as long as the extension / socket aren't too long, the roto will fit and work, without having to take time to adjust things besides the swivel.

Any time I used a flex handle, it felt like an angled pressure applied and forces the socket unnaturally. No thanks.

I like a fixed ratchet moat of the time lately.
 

dchawk81

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I don't work on cars, but I do work on a lot of machines (additive manufacturing / 3D printers). Everyone's situation is different, but here are mine:
  • I'm limited to 70lbs of tools, so I only carry 2 ratchets
  • I have limited time to perform service and PMs, I need tools that can do multiple things if possible.
  • Tight access. Most everything I do, I only have millimeters of clearance.
  • Sometimes I need to tighten down a lens collet and I need to keep a far distance between my hand and the laser (the laser is live).
  • I make on the fly adjustments on moving parts. Same as above, but belts and chain drives.
That *****. I'd need 70lbs just for ratchets.
 

Dave455

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Dave above is spot on, yet again.

Vesper ought to bring you the Tone Japan Rotos, courtesy of HM Treasury Office.

One sympathizes!
:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:

As a former government employee, I can assure you we held a party whenever we we got anything out of the Treasury… but that wasn’t often!

The Tone roto heads interest me (though I need more ratchets about as much as Sussex needs rain this week).

Are these the ones you were thinking of?

I see some unique features on these.
D84741BD-421B-4FC4-8536-1C5BF2BA3C10.jpeg
 

iagsxr

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I resisted flex head ratchets for a long time. Now I can't remember the last time I used a fixed head ratchet in 1/4" or 3/8" drive. They're all laying side by side in my box so it's not a conscious decision, I grab what I like.

I do have a 24" long Mac 1/2" drive non-locking flex head that kind of ***** because the head's so heavy. I keep it in my truck or trailer in case I ever have to change a tire on the road. It's not good for much else.
 

CGarage

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:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:

As a former government employee, I can assure you we held a party whenever we we got anything out of the Treasury… but that wasn’t often!

The Tone roto heads interest me (though I need more ratchets about as much as Sussex needs rain this week).

Are these the ones you were thinking of?

I see some unique features on these.
D84741BD-421B-4FC4-8536-1C5BF2BA3C10.jpeg


Yes mate, they are TOP!
 

Dave455

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Yes mate, they are TOP!
Hmm, interesting!

I reached the conclusion this week, that I probably need to carry 1/4” drive in my road box, and probably in my vehicle. I haven’t up till now (I try to keep just one drive size) but I think it’s becoming unavoidable.

A 1/4” roto head might be a good way to go.
 
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CGarage

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Hmm, interesting!

I reached the conclusion this week, that I probably need to carry 1/4” drive in my road box, and probably in my vehicle. I haven’t up till now (I try to keep just one drive size) but I think it’s becoming unavoidable.

A 1/4” roto head might be a good way to go.

I use 1/4 under the hood on modern cars….necessary these days! A 1/4 Roto and something like the GW90T locking flexhead (has a ~ 9” handle) would solve most issues!
 

AEAdam

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Just keep in mind, when we talk about “access” we’re talking about 2 different things. Flex heads help access fasteners in weird spots.

For me, the other access is where your hands are. Flex heads, wobble extensions, long ratchets, swivel sockets all help you get your hands where you are most comfortable, can apply the most load, where you don’t have to be bent over, saving your back, etc.

I view these tools as conveniences and appreciate them more as I get older.
 

tyyost

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Jan 14, 2009
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Tunkhannock, PA
I’ve been jonesing for a locking flex head ever since the board has been raving about them. The first response I would have for why is that back many years ago flex heads we all “longer” especially the ones sold at sears. The extra leverage and the ease of getting your knuckles out of the crash zone was a huge plus.

Now there are so many options that it’s mind boggling. Access is more limited on current equipment, so any advantage is put to use. I was looking at the locking Carlyle the other day, and may give it a try when my discretionary tool funds build back up.
 

VolvoRyan

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I view these tools as conveniences and appreciate them more as I get older.

This is a key point. I saw the writing on the wall when I was younger, so I started investing in more "ergonomic" tools. It's huge paying dividends now that I'm older.

-Ryan
 

Beauregard

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Southern Nevada Desert
I love the 3/8 roto head. I use socket length and extensions for fastener access. The flex head gives you swing access. Big difference.
I've recently bought the Icon 3/8 long handle roto-head, and I'm impressed by it.
 
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NUTTSGT

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New member introduction?.....or how did this relate to flex head ratchets? Perhaps you weren't finished typing?
New member ? You only have a few months on him. He just doesn't post much.

How does it relate to Flex-heads ? You asked "why ?" He's explaining why he uses them.




I have a stubby Cman 3/8" ratchet about 4.5-5" long total. It fits right in my hand and no need to worry about clearance for the rest of the handle.
 

AEAdam

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Sounds like I need to start shopping....
For as long as I can remember, I’ve had something LIKE the Snap On FHLF80A.

I had a craftsman version when I was in my 20s, early 30s. It’s an essential tool. No, roto-heads and flex heads are not the same. I think your journey needs to start here with a flex head similar to the above. Then try variants as you see a need for them.

I prefer a friction pivot, and the soft grip or at least a plastic grip is recommended for your first.

I also really love flex head stubbies because how they conform to your hand, as Eric said above.
 

dchawk81

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I recently became a convert to flex head ratchets and they really do make some things a lot easier.

I haven't really found them to make the previously impossible possible, but they make life **** less as I become old and decrepit.
 
OP
3

308guru

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For as long as I can remember, I’ve had something LIKE the Snap On FHLF80A.

I had a craftsman version when I was in my 20s, early 30s. It’s an essential tool. No, roto-heads and flex heads are not the same. I think your journey needs to start here with a flex head similar to the above. Then try variants as you see a need for them.

I prefer a friction pivot, and the soft grip or at least a plastic grip is recommended for your first.

I also really love flex head stubbies because how they conform to your hand, as Eric said above.
I was eyeing up the FHLF80A earlier today. That looks like a great all around choice after looking at many variants over and over.

I'm usually not one for cheapies when it comes to tools, but I think I'll kick this off by picking one of these up next time I'm in the HF neighborhood:
 

Kuma601

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We may need a cardiologist on standby for this one.

Screenshot_20231118-063314(1).png

Hmmm...may need to get one. There is an air control valve on the back of the PS pump that most guys get to from the bottom with a 2' extension and crows foot. I can reach that valve if the PS return line is removed allowing a stubby open end to be used. I hate doing fluid lines because it turns into a mess. This may clear the line and allow access.

I grab the locking flex for brakes and oil changes that tend to bury the handle into the ground if on the driveway. In past times the Japanese engineers placed the oil drain bolt on the parallel now they place them at 20-45 degree angles. The flex head makes that turn easy now.
 

Pinemarten

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Washington
I have been a fan of 1/4" flex heads for years. I decided to try the locking flex heads, and picked up an Eastwood 3/8" long handle. It has bailed me out a number of times.

As far as roto heads go, I prefer soft handles, since they usually permit you to angle the handle away from obstructions, and the fatter handle allows you to spin the loosened fastener out like using a big screwdriver.
 

mjdarg

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Raleigh, NC
I was eyeing up the FHLF80A earlier today. That looks like a great all around choice after looking at many variants over and over.

I'm usually not one for cheapies when it comes to tools, but I think I'll kick this off by picking one of these up next time I'm in the HF neighborhood:
My first expensive ratchet was the FLF80A about 9 months ago. I was looking for a 1/2" flex head recently and opted to try out the ICON 64706, but wish I had held out and found a used SF80A on eBay instead.
 

M635_Guy

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tl:dr Flex is handy, and so is roto. For me it's roto for 1/4" and is my primary 1/4" grab, and flex for 3/8", though it's not the first thing I reach for.

Long version:
My first non-traditional ratchets were rotos. I started with the HF Pittsburgh in 1/4" and 1/2". Rarely used the 1/2" (still have it since once in a while it comes in handy), but used the 1/4" a LOT, especially in the engine bay of my old BMW, but for assembling stuff, etc. too. I didn't love the mechanism, so after trying several brands I wound up getting the 1/4" and 3/8" Icon.

I've found I use the 1/4" often, to the point that I got its Snap On brother since I love to run 2 ratchets. I like both a lot but seem to reach for the Icon more often.
KUG6qd.jpg
I have a 1/4" LP90 flex head that mainly sits in the box. I don't use the 3/8" Icon roto as much (not sure why), but it did get used fairly regularly until I got the Matco locking flex.

Since the Matco came, I've found I use it a lot. Not as my fixed/regular ratchets, but a lot. I've done brakes on two of the family cars recently, and it's great for getting rear-facing caliper bolts without fuss, and the offset is really useful in a way the roto isn't. I've noticed it's good in spots like the rear strut bolts where the lip over the firewall makes a roto pivot challenging.
YK0gyP.jpg
NX8azl.jpg
The roto doesn't clear as well as the flex-head here - even more useful when getting to the back blots of the PCV assembly on the family Volvo.

I've added a couple more flex head 3/8" ratchets recently (Ko-ken and a longer Icon), so we'll see how that fares. As a ratchet converting to a spinner, I still like my rotos, and for 1/4" the flex head isn't really competing with them at all.
 
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