Flex Head vs Non Flex for Extra Long Ratchets

[hancock1701]

Hi guys,

So there have been a few occasions where I wished I had an extra long ratchet (either 18 inch 3/8" or 24 inch 1/2"). I've been eyeing the Tekton extra long pair for a while now.

However, I remember reading from someone here about non flex head ratchets like those Tektons will get in the way because of their lengths.

Then I started looking at Flex Head Extra Long ratchets (such as the Titan set on Amazon). But then those have that weak point at the flex head, which is contradictory to the point of having the length to put the torque on. There was a video of a torture test on the 1/2 HF Flex Head ratchet, and it broke at the joint around 400 or 500 ft lbs.

So now I'm not sure which type to get. What's the real world experience on extra long ratchets?

Titan Flex Head set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017XOIOI/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=04XQ5ZEPANDZYCJEF27F&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=5d23eaf6-6278-49c1-b6df-7de0cb9b3a26&pf_rd_i=desktop

Tekton Non Flex Head
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15013-24-Inch-Ratchet-72-Tooth/dp/B00DPLNL8Y/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463980235&sr=1-6&keywords=tekton+ratchet

No Name 3/8" ratchet on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Long-Flexible-Head-Ratchet-3-8-inch-Drive-w-17-inch-Long-Handle-/251713809883?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item3a9b4feddb:g:C28AAOSwFNZWwKFh

 

[Rarified27]

No sarcasm here; legit question-

If you're worried about breaking a flex head joint, couldn't you use a breaker bar to loosen the fastener first?

I recognize some situations aren't ideal for breaker bars, just curious what would require 500 ft lbs of torque on a ratchet.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Flex. I have a Snap On Dual 80 flex and the action is incredible. I also have an Armstrong 88 locking flex which has a nice action, and the locking feature is handy. Either way, they get used much more than my non flex ratchets.

 

[General Geoff]

If Snap-On made an SLL80, I'd have it. I was kind of bummed that the longest non-flex one they had is only ~15 inches in handle length.

 

[hancock1701]

No sarcasm here; legit question-

If you're worried about breaking a flex head joint, couldn't you use a breaker bar to loosen the fastener first?

I recognize some situations aren't ideal for breaker bars, just curious what would require 500 ft lbs of torque on a ratchet.

Yeah, these situations that I think about probably don't happen that often. It was more for the 3/8" one.

That day I needed to use a torx bit socket (3/8" drive, no room for adapter to 1/2" in drive), and my long flex head 3/8" did not have enough leverage, and I didn't have enough room to crank on it. But how ever much torque it required, it probably will not be enough to break a flex head joint.

And for 1/2" in drive, most of the time a breaker bar can be used. Just trying to see which type can serve better when some torque is required.

 

[Wamsutta]

You lost my interest as soon as you mentioned Tekton or Titan.

Wake me up when you decide to look at Snap-on.

 

[Banana Man]

Those you linked seem too long for a 3/8 drive IMO. It would be too easy to over torque a fastener typical of a 3/8 drive torque range. Snap On's FHL80 is the perfect length at 12 1/2 in. A 18 in 3/8 ratchet is too large and cumbersome for me.

 

[Banana Man]

If Snap-On made an SLL80, I'd have it. I was kind of bummed that the longest non-flex one they had is only ~15 inches in handle length.

Snap On has a extra long 1/2 flex head almost 25 in. SLF80A

 

[General Geoff]

Snap On has a extra long 1/2 flex head almost 25 in. SLF80A

Yes, but I don't want a flex head.

 

[Banana Man]

Yes, but I don't want a flex head.

Oh my, bad. Sorry I didn't catch that. It was the OP who wanted the flex so I figured we were all talking flex here, my mistake.

 

[kctyphoon]

Harbor Freights 3/8" ratching breaker bar and double flexing 3/8 ratchet with their heads swapped will give you these.. (And a lifetime warranty)

 

[kctyphoon]

You lost my interest as soon as you mentioned Tekton or Titan.

Wake me up when you decide to look at Snap-on.

I believe it's listed on the tool truck equivalent thread that the Titan long reach ratchets are the same as Mac tools. I'm willing to bet just about Taiwan made 72 tooth ratchets have the exact same internals as the HF ratchets (with the socket release). Also, Ez Red offers extending ratchets that look identical to the old HF version with the fat handle. Only difference being it appears that Ez Red bought and re-branded a flex head version that is widely available on eBay under a dozen or so names. The rebuild kit shown on their website has internals identical looking to my HF ratchets, (even the one I have pictured above) but at least with the HF version you get a lifetime warranty which might be easy for people that have stores nearby.

Anyway - the extending HF ratchets have a big following here, and the internals are all the same between any of their 72 tooth ratchets as long as they share or don't share a socket release button respectively..

For the OP

This would probably be your best compromise - the EZ Red extending flex ratchet in 3/8 for around $30
E-Z Red (MR38FL) Ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FTGI6C4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or you can buy the 1/4", 3/8, 1/2" set for about the same price as the Titan (when they aren't on sale), that like likely all share the same internals anyway

E-Z Red MR482FL 3 Piece Locking Flex Head/Extendable Ratchet Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO2MY3G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They might be cheaper or more expensive directly from ez red's site, I have no idea - just posted Amazon cause it was easier.. If you are worried about them breaking, you just need to exercise some common sense. They are not "suppose" to be replacements for breaker bars, they are just suppose to give you a longer reach. Still, it would take quite a bit of force to break any of them.

 

[wornoutoldman]

The obvious correct answer is... Purchase both! Can you ever have too many ratchets, sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, toolboxes or lady friends? I think not!

 

[winlinmac]

Check out Wright or SK
There was a thread like this a short while ago

 

[bcradio]

You lost my interest as soon as you mentioned Tekton or Titan.

Wake me up when you decide to look at Snap-on.

Luckily nobody cares about your interest but you.

I'd just get the HF ratchets and call it a day. If you need to upgrade later you can, but i doubt you will.

 

[Know Wosad]

Mac axis 90 has an 18" non-flex

 

[BK13]

My only experience with them is a 24"ish Kobalt flex head, and, not being a pro, I don't use it (or any 1/2" drive stuff) much. That being said, I do have the Snappy TLL72 and FLL80 on my want-to-buy list, and the only flex that's on there right now is an FBF80, bent flex handle.

 

[Fedwrench]

Check out Wright or SK
There was a thread like this a short while ago

Neither Wright nor SK make extra long ratchets in the length the OP is asking about.

Back to the original question. I don't think the flex joint is the weak spot on most of the extra long ratchets I've seen. Most are designed so the square drive will shear off before the joint fails. The real long 3/8 drive ratchets I've seen are more for reach than leverage. Some are a bit too springy to really lean on them

Not knowing what you work on, I would recommend picking up both. a really long fixed head ratchet like this ez red
http://www.ezred.com/product/38-non-flex-head-18-long-chrome-handle-2/

EZ Red also has a long 3/8 flex head ratchet:
http://www.ezred.com/product/38-drive-x-17-long-locking-flex-head-ratchet-with-chrome-grip-2/

 

[KEH]

I have an older, mid 1990s, 3/8 Craftsman. I thought of using a breaker bar to loosen fastners first, then looked at both. The craftsman breaker bar and the flex handle are exactly the same, as far as I can tell. I quit worrying about breaking the flex head for what I was using it for. I would be more concerned today because since Craftsman tools have gone to China my flex is basically irreplaceable. None of that applies if the OP is going to buy quality stuff, but it wouldn't hurt to compare breaker bar handles and flex ratchet handles in the good stuff too.

KEH

 

[Olafur]

Personally I would not consider ratchet longer than 15" without flex head. Perhaps in 3/4 drive and bigger, but for 1/2" drive and smaller - never.

 

[hancock1701]

They might be cheaper or more expensive directly from ez red's site, I have no idea - just posted Amazon cause it was easier.. If you are worried about them breaking, you just need to exercise some common sense. They are not "suppose" to be replacements for breaker bars, they are just suppose to give you a longer reach. Still, it would take quite a bit of force to break any of them.

That's actually more of a reason why I want one of these. The time when I wished I had an extra long 3/8" ratchet because my long one (12") would not clear the stuff, and no room to use an adapter with longer 18" 1/2" drive ratchet. And that was on a honda civic, fwd, in the belt area.

The obvious correct answer is... Purchase both! Can you ever have too many ratchets, sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, toolboxes or lady friends? I think not!

It might just eventually come to that . That's why we're all here, right?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[LXCam]

I have extra long flex heads but bought my EL fixed for reaching this places where a normal length ratchet won't go. My vote is to check out the EZ Reds, I got the complete set and luv those things.

 

[Jarhead0408]

Harbor Freights 3/8" ratching breaker bar and double flexing 3/8 ratchet with their heads swapped will give you these.. (And a lifetime warranty)

I'm with KC on this one. I also built one of these cheapy HF bastards. It's been invaluable for places that are too tight for a long 1/2" ratchet. Used it quite a bit on the exhaust studs on the wife's Cavalier. We had the engine/transmission out for a timing service last week and used that ratchet a lot.

Snap On is coming out with their version, the FLLF80 later this year. Until they do, this HF oddball fits the bill for me.

 

[hancock1701]

Thank you all for the suggestions! I was going to make the HF ratchet but my local HF doesn't seem to have the double indexing ratchet in stock ever.

So I got a 3/8 extra long Tekton and decided to try out a 3/8 flex head extra long Powerbuilt. Both Made in Taiwan.

Chrome is flawless. Tekton is beefier, but Powerbuilt is thinner, and also have very positive notches for the flex head.











Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[Jarhead0408]

Glad you found what you wanted mate.

 

[Greg85mcss]

I have an older, mid 1990s, 3/8 Craftsman. I thought of using a breaker bar to loosen fastners first, then looked at both. The craftsman breaker bar and the flex handle are exactly the same, as far as I can tell. I quit worrying about breaking the flex head for what I was using it for. I would be more concerned today because since Craftsman tools have gone to China my flex is basically irreplaceable. None of that applies if the OP is going to buy quality stuff, but it wouldn't hurt to compare breaker bar handles and flex ratchet handles in the good stuff too.

KEH

I had an older craftsman flex head & loved it. When it broke they gave me a new one that didn't last a month. Exchanged a few more times before I gave up & got a flf80.
Op, nice choices. The notched flex heads are great. I wish one of the pro grade manufacturers would make one.

 

[anndel]

I have a Snap On SHF80A 1/2" Drive 80-Tooth Soft Grip Flex Head Ratchet and used it to break bolts without issues. If it starts flexing and the bolt refuses to break I use a 1/2" breaker bar or an air impact wrench.

 

[leoxdeng]

Hi guys - replying to this old thread - as I can really appreciate some advice for a newbie DIY mechanic like me.

I have so far only attempted mostly what I'd call 'easy jobs' - oil change, coolant flush, brake hose, spark plugs.

I've done a serpentine belt & tensioner change - and it was a hell of a job (to me) - as I only had a standard length 3/8 ratchet that could fit in the belt area - and to loosen tension I resorted to adding a steel tube to the 3/8 ratchet - used all my power and did it. When it came to fitting the new belt - I had to ask my wife to use both her hands to hold the 'pipe-ed' 3/8 ratchet so I could squeeze the new belt on…

So I have learned from this lesson, and have since bought a serpentine belt tool - 20" piece of steel bar with a 3/8 drive anvil welded to one end.

Other thank this serp belt tool - the ratchet/drive tools I currently have:
1/2 standard length ratchet & extensions (Halfords Advance, UK brand - quite tough and well built)
3/8 standard length ratchet & extensions (treated myself to a new Facom ratchet!)
***Note - I don't have any 1/4s as 3/8 has worked for me well so far***
3/4 vintage Britool ratchet which I restored and put new grease in - it's a beast!!
1" Gedore sliding T (28") which I use as a breaker bar - the beast of all beasts

Now, here comes my question - I have long considered if I needed an extra long 3/8 ratchet with flex head? As mentioned above I already have this 3/8 serp belt tool which can be used as a breaker bar in really tight spaces. So I think flex head ratchet (than fixed) is what I need to buy next.

I've read this post with great interest, and having previously bought cheaper tools that just broke when you need them most - I'm inclined to buy a SO.

The 3/8 drive 18" versions I'm considering are: FLLF80, or FHLLFD80 (the latter is not available in UK market yet – though I really like the plastic handle - I don't want to pay high postage and tax to import from US.)

My budget would only allow me to buy one SO ratchet - so I wouldn't be able to afford a 12" one as well as 18" one.

Would I be OK with just a standard length 3/8 ratchet, plus an 18" flex 3/8? Anyone has used FLLF80 or FHLLFD80 and found them worth the money

Your advice would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance!

Namo Amituofo

 

[Tynee]

Leoxdeng, nice move stepping up what you are willing to do yourself. I’ve worked on my own stuff for a LONG time with just standard length ratchets without flex. I bought a long flex in 3/8 and 1/2 drive a couple months ago, and they’ve become my go-to ratchets. They’re the first ones I grab now. I went with the Long locking flex with the soft grip from Carlyle, but you could find other really good options for less money if you don’t care about the quick release and the soft handle. Carlyle was the least expensive one that had everything I was looking for.

Unsolicited answer to the questiom you didn’t ask: you’ll want to add 1/4 dtive to your arsenal at some point. Interior work is a good example of where you’ll get into sizes you don’t have in 3/8 drive. I’d chexk out Harbor Freight or the like for the sockets, but shop long and hard for the ratchet with the least back-drag.

Edit: just noticed you’re in London, so you’re brands available will be different than what I mention above, but the advice remains the same.

 

[GetEmSnappy]

Hi guys - replying to this old thread - as I can really appreciate some advice for a newbie DIY mechanic like me.

I have so far only attempted mostly what I'd call 'easy jobs' - oil change, coolant flush, brake hose, spark plugs.

I've done a serpentine belt & tensioner change - and it was a hell of a job (to me) - as I only had a standard length 3/8 ratchet that could fit in the belt area - and to loosen tension I resorted to adding a steel tube to the 3/8 ratchet - used all my power and did it. When it came to fitting the new belt - I had to ask my wife to use both her hands to hold the 'pipe-ed' 3/8 ratchet so I could squeeze the new belt on…

So I have learned from this lesson, and have since bought a serpentine belt tool - 20" piece of steel bar with a 3/8 drive anvil welded to one end.

Other thank this serp belt tool - the ratchet/drive tools I currently have:
1/2 standard length ratchet & extensions (Halfords Advance, UK brand - quite tough and well built)
3/8 standard length ratchet & extensions (treated myself to a new Facom ratchet!)
***Note - I don't have any 1/4s as 3/8 has worked for me well so far***
3/4 vintage Britool ratchet which I restored and put new grease in - it's a beast!!
1" Gedore sliding T (28") which I use as a breaker bar - the beast of all beasts

Now, here comes my question - I have long considered if I needed an extra long 3/8 ratchet with flex head? As mentioned above I already have this 3/8 serp belt tool which can be used as a breaker bar in really tight spaces. So I think flex head ratchet (than fixed) is what I need to buy next.

I've read this post with great interest, and having previously bought cheaper tools that just broke when you need them most - I'm inclined to buy a SO.

The 3/8 drive 18" versions I'm considering are: FLLF80, or FHLLFD80 (the latter is not available in UK market yet – though I really like the plastic handle - I don't want to pay high postage and tax to import from US.)

My budget would only allow me to buy one SO ratchet - so I wouldn't be able to afford a 12" one as well as 18" one.

Would I be OK with just a standard length 3/8 ratchet, plus an 18" flex 3/8? Anyone has used FLLF80 or FHLLFD80 and found them worth the money

Your advice would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance!

Namo Amituofo

To answer your question --- Go with the longer ratchet.

There's plenty of times where you'll want to use a short 3/8 ratchet for clearance, but with 3/8 most of the time your main issue will be leverage since over 12" long you should be looking at 1/2" drive. The extra length won't hurt you most of the time.

My longest 3/8 Snap-ons are 12" (of the six I own) and after that I switch to my 10" 1/2" S80, or SL80, or longer (all 1/2" drive).

I've had the same issue you're talking about where you're attempting to get a drift pin into a belt tensioner, and you require the ability to have enough leverage to pull it far enough over in a tight space where the only distance you have is a short 17mm 12 point socket socket on a 3/8 drive ratchet. My long 3/8" Snap-on ratchets usually do the trick (12"), so I imagine you'll have no issue with 18" long.

 

[leoxdeng]

Leoxdeng, nice move stepping up what you are willing to do yourself. I’ve worked on my own stuff for a LONG time with just standard length ratchets without flex. I bought a long flex in 3/8 and 1/2 drive a couple months ago, and they’ve become my go-to ratchets. They’re the first ones I grab now. I went with the Long locking flex with the soft grip from Carlyle, but you could find other really good options for less money if you don’t care about the quick release and the soft handle. Carlyle was the least expensive one that had everything I was looking for.

Unsolicited answer to the questiom you didn’t ask: you’ll want to add 1/4 dtive to your arsenal at some point. Interior work is a good example of where you’ll get into sizes you don’t have in 3/8 drive. I’d chexk out Harbor Freight or the like for the sockets, but shop long and hard for the ratchet with the least back-drag.

Edit: just noticed you’re in London, so you’re brands available will be different than what I mention above, but the advice remains the same.

many thanks for your encouragement!

Now that was the reason/excuse I've been waiting for - to add 1/4 ratchet and sockets to my tools bag

 

[leoxdeng]

@GetEmSnappy - thank you very much! Going for the longer one sounds logical!

 

[finn]

The long flex head 1/2” drive Snapon is a great tool, but isn’t the only ratchet in the box and isn’t suitable for every job.

If strength is ever a question, it’s time to break out the 3/4” breaker bar or ratchet.

I generally go to the smallest drive and shortest handle that will get the job done with minimall force application, and usually reach for a fixed head if access permits,but, having said that, the long flex Snapon is one of my favorite tools.

It just feels good in my hands.

 

[gatlibs]

The belt tensioners with a 3/8" anvil are not for use as flex handle breaker bars. I've confirmed that...

In my experience the flexing and curved handle on my 3/8" ratchet let's me access immediately behind something. I usually use 1/2" for lateral force being aplied from a great distance. Take that experience with a grain of salt because I generally use 1/2" sockets.
--- I'm very curious about your socket and drive anvil use now. Do you adapt the 1" anvil to 1/2" sockets when using the t-handle as a breaker bar or do you have 3/4":1" sockets? ---

 

[GetEmSnappy]

The long flex head 1/2” drive Snapon is a great tool, but isn’t the only ratchet in the box and isn’t suitable for every job.

If strength is ever a question, it’s time to break out the 3/4” breaker bar or ratchet.

I generally go to the smallest drive and shortest handle that will get the job done with minimall force application, and usually reach for a fixed head if access permits,but, having said that, the long flex Snapon is one of my favorite tools.

It just feels good in my hands.

If we're talking 3/8" head size is a consideration over what you would prefer to use. There are rear differentials you can't use a 1/2" ratchet to break loose the 14mm allen on the filler/drain because there's simply no clearance, and there are situations like he described above where you simply cannot fit a 1/2" ratchet between a fan shroud and where the socket meets the belt tensioner.

Another point. I wouldn't ever use anything welded to pull on a belt tensioner. Great way to loose a finger while you try to fit a belt in place unless you've secured it with a drift first.

 

[leoxdeng]

@finn - thank you! I'm now really sold on the FLLF80

@gatlibs @GetEmSnappy - this is the serp belt tool I've got - do you think 1) it's dangerous to use it as a breaker bar, and 2) dangers to use it to pull tension? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OKSAA8A/?tag=atomicindustr-21

And re my 1" T-bar set up - I have both 1" to 3/4, and 3/4 to 1/2 reducers

 

[Ronson25]

I reach for my flex ratchets more often then my non flex just cause of being more versatile

 

[gatlibs]

I have broken one while using it as a breaker bar. The danger is only as a result of the situation. I'm not worried about a tensioner flexing all of 4" while being 20"+ away from my face especially when the vehicle is off. I would be worried trying to heave great leverage with the handle of the bar and my hands' trajectory being anywhere near my face.
I think that GetEmSnappy is worried about having a finger over the rim of a pulley with the belt over the finger while the tensioner breaks or slips or the tool breaks or slips. The obvious solutions to that are to hold the tool with one hand outside of the belt's path while either adjusting the belt by hand in the lines between pulleys or with a screw driver or some such. When I can I like to have the belt position so that the last pulley is the automatic tensioner.

 

[GetEmSnappy]

@finn - thank you! I'm now really sold on the FLLF80

@gatlibs @GetEmSnappy - this is the serp belt tool I've got - do you think 1) it's dangerous to use it as a breaker bar, and 2) dangers to use it to pull tension? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OKSAA8A/?tag=atomicindustr-21

And re my 1" T-bar set up - I have both 1" to 3/4, and 3/4 to 1/2 reducers

I would only be concerned if you aren't putting a drift pin in, and are attempting to hold the tensioner while installing the belt. I've seen people get their hands trapped when a socket jumps off the tensioner because they were too lazy to put in the proper drift (or the drift breaks/jumps for some reason).

Good habits over tools in general. Even a Snap-on socket could slip off.

 

[Wamsutta]

@finn - thank you! I'm now really sold on the FLLF80

They are worth every penny.

I'll tell you what's not worth the money:
Income tax, property tax, and insurance.

But there's some guys that are so cheap that they still wouldn't buy Snap-on even if they had no bills to pay.