Floating bamboo flooring... I messed up

[MagicMarker]

So this is the first time ever laying down flooring.. watched YouTube videos and read tutorials. I didn't come across this situation. The last row ended up being very skinny... like 1.25" to 1.75" as the wall isn't perfectly square. Really too much to cover with molding and quarter round. Especially by the threshold. I'm thinking the best thing to do is rip what I need to do, but do you guys have any other solutions? Here's what I'm working with.

I don't have a table saw, but I do have this.

 

[gofast]

Whats the distance from the sheetrock to the floor

 

[ADSR]

You'll have to freehand that for sure. Do you have a job mate? You can turn your saw over and use it as a table saw.. IF YOU'RE CAREFUL! PLEASE DO NOT HURT YOURSELF.

 

[Zeke]

I don't see the problem. Yes, you could have narrowed the first board and have more board at the last one. But, it could be worse — you could have had like a quarter inch short of being covered by base and shoe (which all told should be a fat inch anyway).

I think your cut will be plenty strong. I don't think you were asking how to cut this. There are a few ways. This is where a band saw shines. If you only have the Rockwell (BTWI just got one like that and LOVE it!) secure the board to a sacrificial board with double sided tape. Clamp it where you can and not be in the way of the saw.

PS. Even though I love that saw it does have the potential to get out of hand. Be careful and don't bind your cut.

 

[Steves32]

Razor knife & cut drywall up a half inch. Gives you more width & a straighter cut. To make that cut. clamp on a 1x or a spare board on top of piece you are cutting & use it for a fence. Straight as an arrow with the saw you have..

 

[bigredmf]

You should notch your door jam and casing at the bottom so you have a less fussy cut and it will be hidden by the jam.

http://www.laminate-flooring-installed.com/jamb-saws.html

 

[MagicMarker]

Thanks for the great tips... can't cut the drywall. The nails are just at the edge/ base of the dry wall... unless I do cut the drywall and put in some new drywall screws.

Would it be easier to cut the drywall vs. scribing against the drywall?

Luckily I have a jigsaw, but will need to get a different blade. The bamboo material did a number on my miter saw blade for this project.

 

[ADSR]

Sure, cut the drywall. Just get the wood as close as you can because your trim is going to hide everything.

 

[MagicMarker]

You should notch your door jam and casing at the bottom so you have a less fussy cut and it will be hidden by the jam.

http://www.laminate-flooring-installed.com/jamb-saws.html

I have an oscillating saw to cut the jam, but this flooring has a locking tabs that need to angle up, then pushed down. Not sure how to get the flooring under the jam with this flooring system even with cutting the jam.

 

[MagicMarker]

Here is a better overall shot of my issue.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Remove the lock and use glue.

PS; I'm not in the floor trade, my nickname is for my gas foot.

 

[hicketts]

Take a sharp chisel or knife and cut the upward pointing portion of the locking system off, but not completely and then apply glue to the joint. Then when you put the next piece in it will lock somewhat but the glue will hold it permanently. You can remove the tab completely but you will have to use painters tape to hold the joint together until the joint drys. This is a manufacture recommend method and I have done it many times when getting to a spot that you can't angle the last piece in.

 

[MagicMarker]

Thanks guys.. never thought of that.

Just use wood glue?

At the marble threshold, should i just leave a small expansion gap or buy a wood transition piece to **** up against the marble?

 

[cgrutt]

In addition to above I might try splitting difference across several boards so you're not left with a very narrow board at the end. Easier to do with hardwood though where you can just cut a new tongue and groove. Not sure how to do that with the lock they might make a special router bit for it but I don't really know. There may also be some way to eliminate the locking joint and glue it down with a thin backing or tape. You can lay a full width board along the wall parallel to the other flooring and scribe a line to wall to fit it. I don't think you need to worry too much about expansion with bamboo but be sure to leave a small gap that will be covered with moulding to allow for some movement. Good luck.

 

[hicketts]

Yes, just wood glue.

Another trick if your really having a problem is to put a but joint in the middle of the door opening.

So if your standing on the new floor looking at the opening and have your jambs under cut. You would put the left piece in first sliding it under jamb, but just a little past where you want. Then put the right side in, and then pull the two together and if needed slice off the bumped up lip of the joint and replace with glue.

 

[MagicMarker]

Yes, just wood glue.

Another trick if your really having a problem is to put a but joint in the middle of the door opening.

So if your standing on the new floor looking at the opening and have your jambs under cut. You would put the left piece in first sliding it under jamb, but just a little past where you want. Then put the right side in, and then pull the two together and if needed slice off the bumped up lip of the joint and replace with glue.

Wow.. love that idea. Will tackle this last remaining part of the project tomorrow.

Here is what the room looked like before.





And now nearly complete

 

[ExxWhy]

I would use a jig saw and cut a piece to fit. I am skeptical wood glue is going to hold long term, especially in the threshold area. A basic saw is 30 bucks, a finger is considerably more $$$.

I'm not a flooring expert either.

 

[Kevin54]

Where the laminate wood floor meets your tile, use a transition piece in there to cover the joint. They sell them where they sell the laminate flooring. It is a fairly flat piece about 1 1/2" wide to transition the two different materials. I can't remember how I fastened ours down though.

 

[mrvm]

Luckily I have a jigsaw, but will need to get a different blade. The bamboo material did a number on my miter saw blade for this project.

Laminate products are pretty tough on blades and dull them rather quickly. Use older blades or less expensive ones on the cuts that will be hidden under the quarter round. Either measure carefully or mock up a card board template of the strip you need to cut and test cut on strip or two with a better blade. Completed a few of these flooring situations successfully and yours looks achievable especially since you will use a small transition moulding to the tile.

 

[Zeke]

If I were doing this I'd leave the lock tab and cut the piece exactly to fit. Snapped in it's not going anywhere.

 

[duneslider]

Like Zeke said, once the piece is locked in properly it should not come out. Just cut your piece to fit and put it in. You will need/want to use some sort of transition piece at the door up to that marble. Not sure what would work best in this case. The transition pieces are always my least favorite part of laminate flooring, I am just not a huge fan of the look but that is how it is.

Jig saw will work fine for cutting. If you can find a blade that cuts on the down stroke and not the up stroke it will look better and not chip the top out. Either way, a finer tooth count will work better. Either use masking tape to mark out your line so you have something good to follow or use a colored marker that shows up well on the finish. Pencil can be hard to follow when the saw dust is there.

 

[RichWentFishing]

If you don't have a table saw Google up "how to make a circular saw guide".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ADSR]

If I were doing this I'd leave the lock tab and cut the piece exactly to fit. Snapped in it's not going anywhere.

That's how I do it too.