Has anyone used a floor cleanout cover that was designed for tile/terrazo? I will be putting in an epoxy floor with chips, and I'm thinking this will create a clean look. It would be easier to use a solid-style cover and tape over it before applying any epoxy, but if I go with a cleanout cover designed for tile -see photo- it would create a really clean look (the terrazo cover has a much deeper recess). I'm thinking I will still have to tape over the whole cover and do it by hand seperately since the recess would fill up with whatever product you applied (i.e. primer) and the screws would be... well... "screwed." Also, the cleanout cover is nickel bronze, so would I still need to apply the primer, or could I just apply the base coat epoxy with chips and the clear coat?
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Floor Cleanout Cover for Epoxy?
- Thread starter Doug_Fir
- Start date
g.corey74
Well-known member
Need more info. The photo doesn't show a bottom in the nickle cover. How much recess in this fixture? Are you going to pour the floor or dig out to install the casted base?
MonsterCoatings
Member
In my installations there is usually a core hole in the floor where the drain rests and grey colored base is secured to the concrete slab. The screw adjustment is then set for the finished height of the floor. Then a pour is made to lock in the adjusted bronze finish ring.
There are a few concerns:
1. Make sure the adjustment compensates for the total height of the system being used. I like to set it about an 1/8 low so water does not sit around the edges. BUT
2. YOU MUST PLUG THE PIPE INSIDE. Learned this the hard way when epoxy leaked inside and clogged the trap. Luckily access from floor below allowed trap to be easily changed.
3. AND tape up the cover with duct or other very sticky tape preventing epoxy from getting in drain.
4. FINALLY before you screw the drain grating in its place coat the bottom of the grating and sides and screws with a little petroleum jelly, just in case some epoxy does leak through the tape is will help prevent the drain from being totally glued shut.
Hope that helped.
There are a few concerns:
1. Make sure the adjustment compensates for the total height of the system being used. I like to set it about an 1/8 low so water does not sit around the edges. BUT
2. YOU MUST PLUG THE PIPE INSIDE. Learned this the hard way when epoxy leaked inside and clogged the trap. Luckily access from floor below allowed trap to be easily changed.
3. AND tape up the cover with duct or other very sticky tape preventing epoxy from getting in drain.
4. FINALLY before you screw the drain grating in its place coat the bottom of the grating and sides and screws with a little petroleum jelly, just in case some epoxy does leak through the tape is will help prevent the drain from being totally glued shut.
Hope that helped.
This was a retrofit of the ferrule style cleanout with a plug at the finished floor. Not a smart choice, but it was mine alone. I had two of these, and I chipped them out with a hammer drill. I used the push on style since I didn't have the room for the no-hub coupling. Good thing I had photos of the original construction, since I knew I had a radiant pex tube to watch out for. Overall it was a big pain to fix, but it's done.
The lid is solid, the darkness is the recess. It's designed for tile. I'm guessing the depression is 1/8" - 3/16" or so.
Thanks for the advice MonsterCoatings. I had put the lid on inside and even took a couple pieces of torn cotton balls and put in the weep holes to keep the grout out. The cleanouts came with a clear plastic cover that covered the screws, and I just left the covers on during grouting. I figured I can take cut them out later... maybe after priming so I can get a basecoat/chips in the recess, but I'm still not sure whether I need the primer or not on the metal.
The lid is solid, the darkness is the recess. It's designed for tile. I'm guessing the depression is 1/8" - 3/16" or so.
Thanks for the advice MonsterCoatings. I had put the lid on inside and even took a couple pieces of torn cotton balls and put in the weep holes to keep the grout out. The cleanouts came with a clear plastic cover that covered the screws, and I just left the covers on during grouting. I figured I can take cut them out later... maybe after priming so I can get a basecoat/chips in the recess, but I'm still not sure whether I need the primer or not on the metal.