I have just completed a 28 by 40 shop with a concrete floor and in floor heat. The floor will only see light duty ie automobiles, compact tractor and palet jack no welding or torches etc.. I really like the look of the Race deck and I came close to buying it but I don't think I like how noisy it will be based on the sample Race Deck was good enough to send me. Epoxy seems to be alternative but I'm have soem reservations based on problems I have seen in our area. We have a lot of salt used on the roads in the winter and it pretty much eats any thing. What are the alternatives out there for flooring and if one was to go with Epoxy who has got hands down the best?
Floor coating or Race deck type floor
- Thread starter Top Hat
- Start date
I could see using the tiles if you had a old muscle car that you wanted to put on a pedistal, and only use it under that car, but a whole shop....I would never do that. Epoxy is a generic term thrown around to easily. I have seen many epoxy floors that have failed, but they all had a couple things in common.
- Low solids epoxy
-Did grind the floor
-Poor or no topcoat.
100% solids epoxy with either a urethane finish or PAPS finish.
System- Grind - Clean - 100% Solids Epoxy/Epoxy Primper - 100% solids epoxy - Topcoat. Salt will not touch that.
- Low solids epoxy
-Did grind the floor
-Poor or no topcoat.
100% solids epoxy with either a urethane finish or PAPS finish.
System- Grind - Clean - 100% Solids Epoxy/Epoxy Primper - 100% solids epoxy - Topcoat. Salt will not touch that.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Interlocking tile floors seem much louder when you are looking at a small section. We do not sell Racedeck brand tiles, but they have posted in the past to use a landscape fabric underneath which will deaden the noise.
We often suggest that or a foam underlayment.
We sell both epoxy and tiles as well as many other products. Many people have a preference one way or the other. There is no 'right' way to go based on how you described using it.
Garage floor tiles are much more of a fool proof install, but when a coating is done right it can be spectacular.
RaceDeck1
Well-known member
It's obvious what my vote would be 
You should do a search and you will find a lot of information on all of the options out there, and from that you can pick what is best for your particular needs
Thanks
You should do a search and you will find a lot of information on all of the options out there, and from that you can pick what is best for your particular needs
Thanks
And if you do put in tiles, DO NOT hit them with a 4-lb sledge hammer.
And DO NOT roll a 500-pound engine over the stuff on a little floor jack:
It's just not a suitable floor surface for a working shop:
After each engine pull, it's my driveway that ends up looking like ****, since it absorbs spilled oil. The tile wipes up, looks good as new, and has been going strong for four years now.
The only pedestal I've got for my car is the lift -- which is also covered in the same tile, which the car rests on just fine.
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Okay Slickgt1 we get it you love Porcelain tiles.
But IMNSHO its time for you to stop posting it on every flooring question.
It is adding nothing to the threads, just cluttering them up.
I disagree. There are literally new threads every week asking about Racedeck vs Expoxy. Almost every day. The same exact topic. This makes me think people don't really bother searching before posting, which also means that people are less likely to even know that an alternative--potentially superior for their application-exists. I happened to find out about the porcelain thing when I looked at epoxy or racedeck threads, as I reviewed everything I could find on this site. So, one of those posts by Jack or Slick--that you don't want--actually educated and influenced me to do my porcelain tiles. If we can suffer the same racedeck and epoxy threads 10 at a time, surely we can suffer some folks attempting to help educate people. I for one am appreciative.
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Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think you have a good point. All of us would be well served to do a little research first... BUT every floor is very very different. Every application is different. A lot of times it comes down to an expression a friend of mine said about fireplaces "If I walk into their living room and their VCR clock is blinking I am probably not going to sell them an electronic ignition fireplace with a fancy remote.... If I am talking to a customer who wants something quick and easy, I am not going to sell them a coating.
There are times we have to walk customers through not only what line but then why they want to go with a specific pattern. There is a lot of detail.
One other point. While some of us have hundreds of posts and this is our passion and certain things make sense and we are willing to invest the time, many people coming through are just checking it out for their garage and they are not willing to put the work in that a guy that has been hanging out here for 10 years might...
And if you do put in tiles, DO NOT hit them with a 4-lb sledge hammer.
After each engine pull, it's my driveway that ends up looking like ****, since it absorbs spilled oil. The tile wipes up, looks good as new, and has been going strong for four years now.
The only pedestal I've got for my car is the lift -- which is also covered in the same tile, which the car rests on just fine.
Hi Jack, can I put your sledge hammer link in my signature? It is something I always mention, and always have a hard time locating. Thanks either way.
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I think you have a good point. All of us would be well served to do a little research first... BUT every floor is very very different. Every application is different. A lot of times it comes down to an expression a friend of mine said about fireplaces "If I walk into their living room and their VCR clock is blinking I am probably not going to sell them an electronic ignition fireplace with a fancy remote.... If I am talking to a customer who wants something quick and easy, I am not going to sell them a coating.
There are times we have to walk customers through not only what line but then why they want to go with a specific pattern. There is a lot of detail.
One other point. While some of us have hundreds of posts and this is our passion and certain things make sense and we are willing to invest the time, many people coming through are just checking it out for their garage and they are not willing to put the work in that a guy that has been hanging out here for 10 years might...
The point is that its an option that I provide, without any hope of making any proffit. It is to educate the next person that there are other options. DIYable.
I joined October 2010 because of Jack commenting on a contractor site. I came here. February 2011, my garage got tile. I too didn't know that tile can be used in such a way. I always knew it was strong, but not this strong. I have also never seen it around NYC, not only because parking in a garage is rare, but actually having a garage is epic in itself.
As far as walking people through details. Isn't that what this forum is for? There are people that contribute to all. That is why you are here.
True most people just come to this site to look around. So what? Those people should see other options as well.
NOT being mean to Justin by the way (GarageFlooringLLC). Just went all defensive because of the one guy. So don't get me wrong. The support and product the vendors provide is above and beyond what you will find anywhere. There is a reason they are here, and not some random company.
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Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
And you do a very good job of it! The forum needs more & more folks like you who are willing to help people day in and day out.
<<<Isn't that what this forum is for? There are people that contribute to all topics, not just an epoxy product. People give advice and assistance without looking to make a buck. >>>
I could not agree more. I have been in this business for a decade and recommend something other than a coating more often than I recommend for a coating.
And you do a very good job of it! The forum needs more & more folks like you who are willing to help people day in and day out.
<<<Isn't that what this forum is for? There are people that contribute to all topics, not just an epoxy product. People give advice and assistance without looking to make a buck. >>>
I could not agree more. I have been in this business for a decade and recommend something other than a coating more often than I recommend for a coating.
Lol I am sure. Same thing happens to me. People ask how much. I tell them. They say I will just paint it, and live with it. lol. I get it all the time. I especially love $100 window and door installations. I charge $250 for basic. $350 for fully finished and trimmed. $500 to fix the $100 install. lol.
FWIW, I had your same concerns about the "pop-pop" sounds of walking on RaceDeck when I laid a few sample tiles down and tried it. However, once the floor was down, I don't notice any sound at all. I'm in a townhouse with the garage leading into my bonus room which is my office, so I'm in and out of the garage all the time fetching things from the car, etc. What I DID notice is that it's WAY more comfortable to walk on and work on than a concrete floor. The RaceDeck also seems to provide some cushioning to my knees when I'm crawling around working on the bikes. Then there's the permanent grin every time you open the door and drive into your garage, but that's another issue altogether.
Mike
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Coating.
CamarosRus
Well-known member
1) Where/Who has best sales prices on the ceramic tile that is best for my 29' x 50' shop floor.
2) Will I still have to treat my 8.5# water vapor transmission issue to prevent the tile
glue/grout from delaminating at floor surface. Asking for brand name suggestions
for water vapor sealing product
3) Where can I see misc pictures of tile installations so as to get a better idea of the
concept.
4) Is this tile work better left to a pro or can a DIY get pro results. What might a pro charge for labor per foot.
5) Would I want to buy my own saw at Harbor Freight or ???
Thanks,
2) Will I still have to treat my 8.5# water vapor transmission issue to prevent the tile
glue/grout from delaminating at floor surface. Asking for brand name suggestions
for water vapor sealing product
3) Where can I see misc pictures of tile installations so as to get a better idea of the
concept.
4) Is this tile work better left to a pro or can a DIY get pro results. What might a pro charge for labor per foot.
5) Would I want to buy my own saw at Harbor Freight or ???
Thanks,
1. Do not use Ceramic, use Porcelain, Home Depot has it usually for the best price.
2. Do you have water issues? I would guess if you do not your all set here.
3. Google
4. DIY can get good results, just do your homework prior. Labor depends on where you live, it can vary greatly. $2-3 per square foot would seem like a good deal, this does not count material.
5. Buy a saw at Home Depot/Lowes, for simple cuts like this the $99 saw they usually have will be fine and save you a lot of headaches.
I have thought about doing this myself, not sure I am ready to take this on, might just get racedeck instead.
If I did it again, I'd get porcelain. I've seen it for a buck a square foot at both Home Depot and Lowes. I used the basic grout, the basic thinset, and have had no problems with either. Use a dark color for the grout and you'll never have to worry about oil staining it.
My slab was poured in 1925, and had no vapor barrier at all. I haven't had a problem, but I'm in a mostly-dry climate.
Here's a link to mine:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/397102-poor-mans-garage-floor.html
Check Craigslist for installers. I had never set tile before, and I did it myself. I looked online for step-by-step instructions.
That's where I got mine. I got the wet tile saw and their scorer/cutter. The original blade was still going strong when I pulled tiles up and put in a new bunch around and on top of my lift.
CamarosRus
Well-known member
Jack, Thanks for the reply. I have been of a mind set thinking EPOXY (and flakes) etc.
What with the high cost of grinding, shotblasting and my lack of DIY experience maybe this porcelain tile is better bang for the buck.
Do any of the tile owners here ever cover the immediate section (temporarily) where you are doing messy dirty job. Why couldnt you have a sheet of OSB or ??? layed on top
of the tile when youre working on ?????
I still need to seal this floor with ???? to hold back the water vapor
What with the high cost of grinding, shotblasting and my lack of DIY experience maybe this porcelain tile is better bang for the buck.
Do any of the tile owners here ever cover the immediate section (temporarily) where you are doing messy dirty job. Why couldnt you have a sheet of OSB or ??? layed on top
of the tile when youre working on ?????
I still need to seal this floor with ???? to hold back the water vapor
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camarotoolman
Banned
Not a garage but a little bathroom floor. now it has a 20+ year old sheet of something. My neighbor said that as long as it is tight to the concrete floor he can go over it using a special type of glue. ( with creamic tile) Me, I'd scrap it completely out down to the bear concrete. Its not that big so it isn't going to that much work. Ideas, comments please.
1. I got mine at Lowes for around $1 per sq-ft.
2. My house is over 100 years old, NY, no vapor barrier or anything else. I see winters with more blue salt than you can imagine. Even if it doesn't snow. No issues at all, and still going strong.
3. Click my Garage Reno link in sig. the other link is my ongoing durability thread.
4. DIY for sure. Save the money, and buy more garage goodies. I paid my friend, (peanuts really) for a mud job help, because well, that is just way too much sand and cement to mix, carry and put down by yourself.
5. Yes you would. If you rent, you can't work at your comfortable pace, and will rush stuff. Just be smart about it, lay the full tiles, and do the cuts at the end. Make sure you clean off the empty spaces from thinset so that when you lay the cut tiles, you won't have to chisel out the dried thinset.
Not a garage but a little bathroom floor. now it has a 20+ year old sheet of something. My neighbor said that as long as it is tight to the concrete floor he can go over it using a special type of glue. ( with creamic tile) Me, I'd scrap it completely out down to the bear concrete. Its not that big so it isn't going to that much work. Ideas, comments please.
Rip it off. Special glue, is special BS. Do what has worked for centuries. Thinset, to the tile. Although, I have to say, that PL Premium will probably hold it, just don't know for how long.