Toomanytools?
Well-known member
Thought I would post this it's mostly just a way to keep all the flooring options clear as to what is out there. I hope it's accurate, if not I'm sure the floor guys will correct me. There are some other coating options (staining and clear coat) but this gives you the main four I think. This was mostly for myself as I was getting too much info on what was what.
I have two spaces that I want to coat, one that is mainly vehicle storage with a section for metal work welding and grinding, which at this time I don’t do a lot. That total space is 2000 square feet, the other space is 1000 sqft which is a woodworking area, that floor I'm thinking epoxy.
For the vehicle space I think I basically want to protect from oil, gas spills and have a floor easy to sweep up. I’m a bit conflicted if I want some color to it or just a clear having the concrete show through. Don’t want to grind down to sand or agg type finish.
I have been looking at some products: Which fall into four categories, Acrylics, Polyurethanes, Epoxies and Penetrating Sealers.
1. Poyurea/Polyaspartic: Think SPGX and NOHR-S fall into this, thinner mil film than an epoxy, short pot life 10-25min, UV stable, has colors available. Looks to be a 2 coat system 1st being primer and color, 2nd being the clear coat. I figure $1.00/sqft cost.
2. Next would be a Polyurethane coating such “Rust Bullet” which is 70% solids goes down about 2-3 mils. No mixing A & B, 30 day pot life. Prep says no etch, no grind needed just clean then I read Polyurethane doesn’t bond well with concrete? So seems a grind would help that. UV stable better wear and abrasion resistance than epoxy. To get a thicker mil can do epoxy with a poly clear which gives you a UV stable finish. Site says about .85 cents /sqft but 2 coats required so don’t know if that has to be doubled.
3. Looking at Epoxy finishes I see 100% solids and High solids about 93%, then on down to 50-70% solids. Which I get the epoxy finishes and the plastic flake or quartz and a clear coat. Seems the system is: Primer, color epoxy, chips if you want then a clear, with polyurethane being better than an Epoxy clear because being more UV stable. Seems to be about $1.40-1.50/sqft
4. The last system being a sealer, using a densifier and a sealer which basically is a silicon. It soaks in and doesn’t build a film. Protects from fluids but not so much from dropping something like an epoxy.
Seems most of us on GJ are DIY's, I know I don't want to spent much more than $1 - $1.50/sqft on the floor.
One of the flooring guys was thinking of a short video on the systems and a quick how to and why on each hopefully something gets out there.
Not suggesting this post but it seems the flooring section needs a "Sticky" on the flooring options. I know the same basic questions get asked daily. "I have a new floor what do I use, why and how much does it cost"?
Hopefully this might help it's not the "word" just my late night pondering.
Jeff
I have two spaces that I want to coat, one that is mainly vehicle storage with a section for metal work welding and grinding, which at this time I don’t do a lot. That total space is 2000 square feet, the other space is 1000 sqft which is a woodworking area, that floor I'm thinking epoxy.
For the vehicle space I think I basically want to protect from oil, gas spills and have a floor easy to sweep up. I’m a bit conflicted if I want some color to it or just a clear having the concrete show through. Don’t want to grind down to sand or agg type finish.
I have been looking at some products: Which fall into four categories, Acrylics, Polyurethanes, Epoxies and Penetrating Sealers.
1. Poyurea/Polyaspartic: Think SPGX and NOHR-S fall into this, thinner mil film than an epoxy, short pot life 10-25min, UV stable, has colors available. Looks to be a 2 coat system 1st being primer and color, 2nd being the clear coat. I figure $1.00/sqft cost.
2. Next would be a Polyurethane coating such “Rust Bullet” which is 70% solids goes down about 2-3 mils. No mixing A & B, 30 day pot life. Prep says no etch, no grind needed just clean then I read Polyurethane doesn’t bond well with concrete? So seems a grind would help that. UV stable better wear and abrasion resistance than epoxy. To get a thicker mil can do epoxy with a poly clear which gives you a UV stable finish. Site says about .85 cents /sqft but 2 coats required so don’t know if that has to be doubled.
3. Looking at Epoxy finishes I see 100% solids and High solids about 93%, then on down to 50-70% solids. Which I get the epoxy finishes and the plastic flake or quartz and a clear coat. Seems the system is: Primer, color epoxy, chips if you want then a clear, with polyurethane being better than an Epoxy clear because being more UV stable. Seems to be about $1.40-1.50/sqft
4. The last system being a sealer, using a densifier and a sealer which basically is a silicon. It soaks in and doesn’t build a film. Protects from fluids but not so much from dropping something like an epoxy.
Seems most of us on GJ are DIY's, I know I don't want to spent much more than $1 - $1.50/sqft on the floor.
One of the flooring guys was thinking of a short video on the systems and a quick how to and why on each hopefully something gets out there.
Not suggesting this post but it seems the flooring section needs a "Sticky" on the flooring options. I know the same basic questions get asked daily. "I have a new floor what do I use, why and how much does it cost"?
Hopefully this might help it's not the "word" just my late night pondering.
Jeff
The urethanes are also vastly different. Even within our offering. I like the 356 because it si tough as nails, one component and long potlife.