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Floor Drain Ideas

TonyMazz

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Jun 10, 2005
Messages
57
Location
Wisconsin
Currently I have a floor drain and it drains through a PVC pipe just to the edge of my foundation on my garage.

I need some ideas as to how to properlly extend the drain and keep it from freezing as I live in Wisconsin.

When washing my cars in my heated garage, the drain plugs periodically and need to stay open so that i can wash my cars/clean the floor year round.

What are some of you doing to manage this ....and yes there'd be some residual oil / grease / dirt etc that would be washed off the vehicles that 'd go down the drain. I am not one to pour oil, gas etc down the drain, but will not be sanitizing it either....

Any ideas....
 
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bmwpower

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The easiest way to finish it off is to extend the pipe into a drywell. I've done this with my sump pump drain. Make sure the pipe leaving the garage is sufficient diameter and pitch as this will keep the water from freezing inside the pipe. Minimize sharp bends when laying the pipe. 3" would probably do it. Bury the pipe if you can, even if it's a couple of inches - this will help avoid freezing. Also, install a cleanout about a foot outside of the garage in case you get a bad clog. With a cleanout, it will make it easier to clear the clog.

Hope this helps.
 
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TonyMazz

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Jun 10, 2005
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Wisconsin
Thanks sounds like a good plan....now I just have to wait until spring time....I have natural slope that will work.

Just wondering....at the end of the 3" pipe do I just have it drain into the earth or do should I build / bury a bucket with holes in it filled with gravel ??

Make sense or is this just a waste of time ???

Thanks again for your idea....
 

bmwpower

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You'll want to dig a hole bigger than a bucket. End the pipe in the well. How much water will you be draining? The well size will be dependent upon that. If the well is too small, you will end up flooding your yard. I would make it 2-3 feet deep, 2-3 feet wide, 2-3 feet long. Line the hole with landscapers cloth. This will prevent dirt from entering the well. Fill the well with 3/4" gravel. Cover the top of the well with landscapers cloth., overlapping the edges to keep dirt from entering the well. Cover the well with dirt.
 
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TonyMazz

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Jun 10, 2005
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57
Location
Wisconsin
Thanks sounds like a good plan....now I just have to wait until spring time....I have natural slope that will work.

Just wondering....at the end of the 3" pipe do I just have it drain into the earth or do should I build / bury a bucket with holes in it filled with gravel ??

Make sense or is this just a waste of time ???

Thanks again for your idea....
 

Mattlt

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Nov 30, 2005
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Location
MN
Insulate it

Also, cover the drywell with a couple bales of hay or straw (or some other insulating material) This should help keep the drywell from freezing.
 

David Fermani

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Jan 1, 2006
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Location
Dearborn, Michigan
Tony - How is you floor setup to catch the water? It it pitched to catch it at a drain or grate? Was this system installed before or after the floor was poured? I'm planning on building a garage to detail cars out of and I'm wondering what people are doing for drainage. Most cities won't allow drains in garages in residential areas.
 

bmwpower

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Easiest way to get around code for drains is to install drain system before pouring the floor, stuff the drain with newspaper, then pour a thin layer of concrete over the drain area. When the final inspection is complete, break away the concrete from the drain.
 

JohnZ

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Dec 28, 2005
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475
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Washington, Michigan
bmwpower said:
Easiest way to get around code for drains is to install drain system before pouring the floor, stuff the drain with newspaper, then pour a thin layer of concrete over the drain area. When the final inspection is complete, break away the concrete from the drain.

I've done that in previous homes I built in past years, but the inspectors are hip to that now and the local code folks are paranoid about no floor drains in residential garages; in my area, a garage slab can't be poured unless the inspector is present to witness the start of the pour to ensure there are no "hidden" drains that can be opened later. :sad:
 

bmwpower

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JohnZ said:
I've done that in previous homes I built in past years, but the inspectors are hip to that now and the local code folks are paranoid about no floor drains in residential garages; in my area, a garage slab can't be poured unless the inspector is present to witness the start of the pour to ensure there are no "hidden" drains that can be opened later. :sad:

Now that's nuts that they have to see the pour, then again I think they are not that smart in my area. My plumber even recommended it. I didn't go for it, since I didn't want to chance getting my tools, etc. all wet.
 
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RWD

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Dec 7, 2005
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south suburbs of Chicago
Here's another idea someone told me about:

http://www.pavingexpert.com/aco01b.htm

Now this site is foreign, england I think, but the idea is still the same. In my area a garage floor drain is NOT ilegal, just very expensive. Something like $1500 or more for new construction. If you put this trough thing in the driveway right where it meets the garage door it should work. the garage floor is sloped so water will go out towards the drain. Only thing I don't know is if it would freeze in the cold Chicago area winters ;)
Bob
 
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TonyMazz

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Wisconsin
David Fermani said:
Tony - How is you floor setup to catch the water? It it pitched to catch it at a drain or grate? Was this system installed before or after the floor was poured? I'm planning on building a garage to detail cars out of and I'm wondering what people are doing for drainage. Most cities won't allow drains in garages in residential areas.


I installed before the floor was poured....3-car garage, and the floor gradually slopes to the drain....drain is a pvc drain to the foundation wall on garage.

I live in the country and also have a 75000 BTU ceiling mount furnace that uses propane....
 

JBS Motorsports

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Jan 2, 2006
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Location
Montour Falls,NY
When I built my garage and put in floor drains, one concern I had was if the place was to sell and the drains didn't meet some stupid code, then what? I called the county and had a meeting with the code officer and he said to put the drain into a holding tank and run it to a leach field or into present septic system, this would meet state code even if there was a little oil or some other substance in with the water. (Because of the holding tank)You can then have the holding tank pumped if there are any problems and it meets all local and state codes. Not real expensive to do and all worrys are gone. Don't know about everyones local code, but it works in New York State and we seem to be one of the hardest states to do ANYTHING in.
 

DaveL.

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May 26, 2005
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337
Location
Pennsylvania,HBG area
bmwpower said:
Easiest way to get around code for drains is to install drain system before pouring the floor, stuff the drain with newspaper, then pour a thin layer of concrete over the drain area. When the final inspection is complete, break away the concrete from the drain.

yup..thats what my buddy did. :thumbup:
 

Johns57

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Aug 19, 2005
Messages
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Location
Littlestown, PA
If freezing is your main problem, you might want to run a heating cable through the pipe. You can get them online or through a greenhouse supply co. Heck, Home Depot might even have them. Plug it in while your washing cars so the water doesn't freeze at the other end of the pipe and unplug when you're through. Might be easier than digging the well.

John
 

Donzi4me

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Nov 10, 2005
Messages
105
Location
IL
bmwpower said:
Easiest way to get around code for drains is to install drain system before pouring the floor, stuff the drain with newspaper, then pour a thin layer of concrete over the drain area. When the final inspection is complete, break away the concrete from the drain.


How do you explain the slope to the "covered up" drain to the inspector. Here no drain is allowed unless you have a gas and oil seperator. It can not be run out to the yard like the gutters.
What my concrete guy suggested was, put in a channel drain, but run the drain pipe to a sump basin in the garage floor. He calls this a contained drain. Inspector thinks it's to catch snow run off. When washing cars, just drop a small sump pump in and drain outside when full. "No harm--No foul"
What do you think about this idea???
 

bmwpower

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NJ
Donzi4me said:
How do you explain the slope to the "covered up" drain to the inspector. Here no drain is allowed unless you have a gas and oil seperator. It can not be run out to the yard like the gutters.
What my concrete guy suggested was, put in a channel drain, but run the drain pipe to a sump basin in the garage floor. He calls this a contained drain. Inspector thinks it's to catch snow run off. When washing cars, just drop a small sump pump in and drain outside when full. "No harm--No foul"
What do you think about this idea???

Not sure, but I would think you could get away with making a gentle slope.

Draining the sump everytime you use the water would be a pain in the ****.
 

ruby76

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
117
Location
Fairview Hts, Illinois - outside Saint Louis Misso
Luckily, My home's garage floor was "funnelled" into the center where there is a floor drain, then PVC piping under the slab, through the foundation wall into a pit filled with gravel (no landscaping cloth though , I'd imagine). I've washed my cars in there before. If I get too carried away with water the drain will back up a little but it will gradually go away.

I thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread when I first saw it. Then realized it wasn't too conducive to woodworking with the floor unlevel. My detached garage for the woodworking is completely flat, no drain, no slope etc.

Jeremy
 
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TonyMazz

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Jun 10, 2005
Messages
57
Location
Wisconsin
Well it's time to install my drywell.....found the drain stub coming out of the garage foundation. Called the diggers hotline to locate the utilities...mandatory.

In the thinking stage at this point. I am torn between digging a huge hole to drop a 55 gallon sealed plastic drum vs running about 70 ft of pipe and trench down the year to an open area....I live in wisconsin and it gets cold. The drum will require dropping it so the top is at least 36" below the surface. Alot of digging, but it's a one-time shot....also the soil is clay....making shoveling by hand a b***h.
 
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TonyMazz

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Jun 10, 2005
Messages
57
Location
Wisconsin
David Fermani said:
Tony - How is you floor setup to catch the water? It it pitched to catch it at a drain or grate? Was this system installed before or after the floor was poured? I'm planning on building a garage to detail cars out of and I'm wondering what people are doing for drainage. Most cities won't allow drains in garages in residential areas.


I had the drain put in when the floor was poured. I live in the country so no one really made a stink. Floor is sloped to the drain as I also live in wisconsin. When the water from melting snow were to drain towards the door, it causes the rubber door seal to freeze to the floor in the winter...pain in the cold...

Paid about $50 bucks extra for the whole deal and was there when they poured by garage floor...900 sq ft 3 car garage floor a single drain which is all I need. It resides between the 2-car side (which is used daily to park 2 vehicles i.e daily drivers).

Now that summer is here I am in the process of prepping for installation of drywell to catch the grey water. No oil, gas, anti freeze etc...use drop pans when changing oil to prevent any hazardous water from going down. Fairly careful about that....
 

OI812

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Jan 8, 2005
Messages
202
If your want to prevent freezing of the pipe, place styrofoam over and along side the pipe. This will prevent freezing. Don't know where your at in WI., but I would use 2" styrofoam. This is actually part of the plumbing code in WI., when sewers get shallow. If you need more info, PM me.
 

bahamasair

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Jan 21, 2006
Messages
120
Location
bahamas
JohnZ said:
I've done that in previous homes I built in past years, but the inspectors are hip to that now and the local code folks are paranoid about no floor drains in residential garages; in my area, a garage slab can't be poured unless the inspector is present to witness the start of the pour to ensure there are no "hidden" drains that can be opened later. :sad:
In this case I would dig the hole for the drain in the middle of where you are going to pour the slab and fill it with gravel. Then put your crushed rock or whatever you are using for fill for the slab and slope it to your drain. There is no pipe and there is nothing the inspector can see so you can just core drill a 3" hole above the drain and slip a piece of pvc pipe through it.
 
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