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Floor finish for snowy areas

Overdrive

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Feb 15, 2007
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5
I'm trying to determine the best floor finish for my use. I'm building a new 24 x 24 garage and would like to apply a floor coating to the floor once the building is up before the floor gets oily from my various projects.

I'm looking for something that's easy to clean up, and that's durable. The only problem is, most options I see might not work too well for me in winter, due to lack of grip with snow on the feet, and snowy vehicle tires. Are there any options for winter use? I'm not too keen on installing an epoxy coat, with grit in it, as that would make cleanup a pain. Unless there's mats I can use to put in place for half the year? Seems I'm stuck with either ease of cleanup, or good traction, but not both, or have I missed something?

I'm looking at either an epoxy coating, or a polished and sealed floor.
 
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Bad Idea

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May 31, 2010
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South NJ
A full broadcast flake into epoxy floor would give you the texture you need and you can dial in the texture with the thickness of the topcoats you put on it. Full broadcast flake would be easier to clean than silica grit in a sealer or a full broadcast sand aggregate floor. What type of clean up are you looking for? Mop? Hose spray?
 

AlphaGarage

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Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
Consider using a polymer grit. The grains are smaller than table salt, but more importantly the edges are rounded, that makes cleaning pretty easy. Most other grit has sharp edges, which shred mop heads, rags, etc. Polymer grit, our's is "SuperGrip," doesn't tear at mops or rags, in fact I clean it all the time using just those blue paper shop towels with no problems. I can also reach under my way too low Healey without ripping the skin from my bones. If you squeegee your floor it will take a few more passes, but other than that just treat it as a normal epoxy coated floor, in other words no special attention is required.

It's not as strong as some other grits, like aluminum oxide, but is plenty tough enough for most residential and small shop applications. SuperGrip is opaque white, so against some finishes it will show, but if you have almost any flakes the grit is difficult to discern. We spec anywhere from 200 - 400 ft2 per half pound of grit, it's added to the clear coat while it's being mixed.
 
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Overdrive

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Feb 15, 2007
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For cleaning, I'm looking for sweeping up dirt, mopping up liquid spills, light spill cleanup with rags/shop towels. Hose spray would probably not be too often.

Those two options above sound workable. I just didn't want to add a grit that would turn the floor into a sandpaper texture.
 

AlphaGarage

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Grit will add texture, that's what will reduce the slip and fall potential.

Flakes will add texture, and I'd love to sell you a whole lot at our new reduced price, but the fact is that properly applied flakes simply don't add that much texture. I liken it to the texture you find on roll out linoleum, there but too subtle to prevent slips. Flakes look great, but if you need texture go with grit.

I would not compare a polymer grit finish to sandpaper - not even near.
 
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rugerlady

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Michigan
I agree flakes will not add enough texture. There are also different size grits of aluminum oxide, for ease of cleanup.
 
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Overdrive

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Feb 15, 2007
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Oh Ok... that makes sense. I guess the grit I've previously seen is the same stuff as used on traction tape and the like (silica, or aluminum oxide, or mica). Polymer grit sounds like it would work.
 

Ruddy

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Mar 13, 2010
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Pollock Pines California
Can't you also adjust the sharpness of the flakes by applying them on the epoxy, then clear over that? Or mix them in with the clear? I just threw mine on top of clear, so they are pretty sharp. I went light though and only by the doors/sink, so I'm not to worried about it.
 

Bad Idea

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Can't you also adjust the sharpness of the flakes by applying them on the epoxy, then clear over that? Or mix them in with the clear? I just threw mine on top of clear, so they are pretty sharp. I went light though and only by the doors/sink, so I'm not to worried about it.

That is true. My company usually does flakes into the base resin and then one tight coat of sealer if you want the sharps to poke through and add texture. If you want to smooth it out, do one coat of sealer, sand it with 80 or 100 grit and then seal it again - gets a nice smooth finish.

Not all flakes are created equal, some are soft and will break easily so you won't get the texture you want.
 

z28toz06

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Nov 30, 2005
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Location
Connecticut
I did a broom finish on mine right from the pour. I epoxied it 45 days later and it is very easy to walk on with snow, water etc after i bring the quad, snowblower back in.
 
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