floor heat/ cement quote

[70staged]

I just got a quote from the local builder for putting in cement in my shop. He also built the shop, its a 40x72 with 2 overhead doors. SO for 6" of cement, rebar, plastic vapor barrier, 2 floor drains and labor was $20,500. I would supply the pex and the insulation for under but he will install for the price stated. Not sure if that seems high or if that seems to be on point. Located in northeast MO
Ill start a thread later on when i find more time (which is once i get the house remodel done.

 

[ConCretin]

Prices obviously vary by region but $7 and change per sf would be a very good price for that scope of work up my way.

 

[CudaA39]

Quote I received last week was just over $10/ft and I was happy with it. What grade of cement and what type of rebar? Does he need a pump truck to put it in?

 

[70staged]

1/2" rebar, 4000psi? Cement, told him there might be a few semi trucks making there way inside. He Guessed that $900 would cover the pump truck (last one he used in May was $700 but don't know jf price was same or changed) extra cement where my lift will go. Extra rebar at the door entrance as well.

 

[Alcap]

Maybe the only thing might be to be how level and what finish will be . I had my garage 28 x28‘ done and the masons finished will a power trowel it was smooth but wasn’t as flat as I would have thought. Have you seen any of his finished flat work?

 

[70staged]

Maybe the only thing might be to be how level and what finish will be . I had my garage 28 x28‘ done and the masons finished will a power trowel it was smooth but wasn’t as flat as I would have thought. Have you seen any of his finished flat work?

Gonna try and look at one tomorrow

 

[Juiced06GTO]

Cost of concrete and finish work for me was just over 3.5/sq ft. I did ALL the prep work though, gravel base/compaction/vapor barrier, foam, pex tubing, mesh, rebar cages where the lift is going, and a 12' angle iron threshold where the garage door is anchored with rebar into the slab. All they did was show up, pour the 22 yds of 4kpsi mix, trowel it and cut it. It came out awesome!!

 

[billconner]

I don't know where you are - geographically or urban vs rural - but seems like good price. I think $9-10 sf for your scope is typical.

 

[Jtrudel90]

Cost of concrete and finish work for me was just over 3.5/sq ft. I did ALL the prep work though, gravel base/compaction/vapor barrier, foam, pex tubing, mesh, rebar cages where the lift is going, and a 12' angle iron threshold where the garage door is anchored with rebar into the slab. All they did was show up, pour the 22 yds of 4kpsi mix, trowel it and cut it. It came out awesome!!

Can you shed more light on this angle iron for the garage door? Google turned up nothing

 

[Juiced06GTO]

Can you shed more light on this angle iron for the garage door? Google turned up nothing

I made an angle iron threshold for the entrance into the garage. If you check out my build thread you'll see what I am talking about. I have a gravel drive up to the barn and I didn't want to risk chipping up the concrete edge, and I also needed a way to put in a thermal break to keep the edge from being exposed to the outside since the slab is heated. I insulated the back side of the angle iron and anchored it into the slab with 2' long pieces of rebar welded to the angle iron.

 

[Jtrudel90]

I made an angle iron threshold for the entrance into the garage. If you check out my build thread you'll see what I am talking about. I have a gravel drive up to the barn and I didn't want to risk chipping up the concrete edge, and I also needed a way to put in a thermal break to keep the edge from being exposed to the outside since the slab is heated. I insulated the back side of the angle iron and anchored it into the slab with 2' long pieces of rebar welded to the angle iron.

okay this makes sense, I did check out your build thread after responding above. what I didn't see was the insulation between the angle and the concrete that is a good Idea. typically is the slab not insulated at the door opening with in floor heat ? I guess the foam would get damaged otherwise.

 

[ConCretin]

It's takes some extra work but IMO the best way to get a thermal break at the door opening is to form a construction joint just inside where the overhead will land and place the slab. Install a thermal break or insulation and place a sloped apron that extends a few feet out from the face of the garage. Since overhead doors run on the inside face of the wall, this method keeps the heated portion of the slab inside of the door and prevents several inches of heated slab from protruding under the door.

The apron can be an inch or so lower than the main slab creating a positive stop against water coming back under the door. If you use 1/2 expansion material as a thermal break, you can just caulk the joint. If you use insulation, cut a bevel in the top so only a small amount shows.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Make sure the PEX is pressure tested before the pour and the contract states that he is responsible for it holding pressure AFTER the pour !