Hi, I have a 2 1/4 ton floor jack. Made by Shinn-Fu Model G-818 Lift range 5 1/2 to 19 1/2 inch range. Has been a great jack but just failed last week when I tried to lift a box trailer. Pump it up and it just returns down slowly. No external leaks. Does not owe me anything as I have had it many years but would like to rebuild it if possible. I see I can get a rebuilding kit for it. I took the jack apart and have the ram itself in a big vise. I want to unscrew the large cap on top of the ram. It will not budge. using a big pipe wrench with a cheater bar. No go. Any suggestions as to how to remove the top? Thanks.
Floor Jack rebuild
- Thread starter Orca
- Start date
nadogail
Well-known member
Perhaps you can contact tech support from either the manufacturer or dealer
Jeepster04
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2013
- Messages
- 3,098
Got a good impact? I was able to zip it right off my craftsman jack.
Hi Well it appears the quality of jacks have gone downhill. All my jacks were good quality and lasted. I rebuilt my Walker 2 tonner and retired it to my son. I got this 2 1/4 tonner many years ago and worked well. Yes not wanting a cheap jack. Not into to throw away tools. The body of the bottle is 3 inches diameter and the top cap with the hex nut embossed on it it 2 3/8 inches across. Would rather not use heat on it and thought a good wrench with a cheater bar would get it moving but no soap! I will check with a local hydraulic firm. They do commercial jacks but not want to rebuild residential jacks because they said too expensive to rebuild for most jacks but might point me in a direction to get the top off. Thanks.
csp
Well-known member
There's an import floor jack rebuild thread in the tools forum on this site.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Here it is: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/overseas-jack-rebuild-help-tutorial.51105/
Note that at the time, member Hiball was selling replacement seals and other parts for these types of jacks but I think he's not doing that anymore, so if you need parts you may have to source them elsewhere. if you live near any major city there's probably a hydraulic repair shop that can source things for you.
Hi, Sorry just got back to this project and saw the post. I located a hydraulic jack company that clams they have seals for my jack. Looking over the parts they show there are just a few o rings that would work. So that source is out. I have 2 believe teflon square wipers for the pumping ram along with 2 o rings. They do not show the white square items. No flat seals for jack oil fill or seals for the rotating assembly actuates the long bar that closes and opens the valve to pump the jack. And just cannot get the end cap off. See it is torqued to about 650 ft. lbs. Quite more than I can handle at this point I will look over the post you gave me but looks like I will end up buying a Daytona jack for now to get back to work. If there was a service close to me that rebuilds the ram I would have it done as I like the old girl but no one around here will do it. She has served me well for many years. Not going to buy a Craigslist used jacks or **** and end up in the same boat. Another great tool that has gone to the dogs without a quality replacement without breaking the bank. Thank you.
larry4406
Well-known member
650 ft-lbs installation torque?
If you have a 5' cheater bar, that's 130 lbs applied at the end. 10' cheater bar, then 65 lbs applied. Key will be holding it while you hit it with the ugga tugga's.
If you have a 5' cheater bar, that's 130 lbs applied at the end. 10' cheater bar, then 65 lbs applied. Key will be holding it while you hit it with the ugga tugga's.
bluedog225
Well-known member
I have had great luck with jack stop leak oil. Sounds like it’s too late on this project.
i tried holding it in a big vice with my son holding the bench. Barrel of ram started to rotate using a long bar in the vice. Not worth breaking a good vice. Yes even had long bar and wacked it a few times. No go. very frustrating. I think I am going to reassemble everything with old seals and see if jack works again. Not likely but nothing to loose and maybe try that jack oil saver too. As I said I rebuilt my very old Walker floor jack over 20 years ago. Still working great. Gave it to my son for his shop. Going strong for a vintage 1970's jack. Thanks.
Zeke
Well-known member
Did you try going in the tightening direction? Threads can be very stubborn but a more stubborn person can usually get them loose.
I don't think gradually coming up on 650 ft lbs is the best way to remove the cap. That is the best way to tighten it. What it needs is a shock. That's why impact wrenches work as well as they do.
You know how to open a jar with a tough lid, right? Tap it on something very solid all around the rim and a 3 year old can take the lid off.
The key is mass. If you hammer the cap around the perimeter, you should be on a big *** anvil or equivalent.
I don't think gradually coming up on 650 ft lbs is the best way to remove the cap. That is the best way to tighten it. What it needs is a shock. That's why impact wrenches work as well as they do.
You know how to open a jar with a tough lid, right? Tap it on something very solid all around the rim and a 3 year old can take the lid off.
The key is mass. If you hammer the cap around the perimeter, you should be on a big *** anvil or equivalent.
Hi, No I did slug the long bar with a sledge hammer to shock it . Tapped on the outside diameter just around the area of the threads. Even soaked top area with Kroil soaked in a rag. Reminds me of when I had to remove the bushings from a walking beam on a 1970's Ford garbage truck. Using a 1 inch Rotunda impact wrench with heat to get the nut to budge. Two of us to hold the bars attached to the impact gun. After about 10 minutes the nut finally moved. I reassembled the jack so will try and see if it works and if not will try and attack the big nut again. I assume righty tighty on the threads?
I gave up and bought a HF Daytona 3 ton jack on sale for now. Need a jack. Does anybody have a diagram of the assembly that opens and closes the valve controlled by the handle? Cannot figure out how it works. I took it apart and set it aside but upon reassembly the top star as I rotate it that engages with the handle star or cog just rotates and does not lock down. What am i missing here? Thanks. Model G-818 Shinn-Fu 2 1/4 ton floor jack.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
They're generally a splined connection.
Will take a photo of assembly and post. Large top cog has threads inside and another rod threads into center of it. Looks like a steel ball sits down inside bore and this smaller rod should contact it to either clamp down ball or allow ball to be loose to release pressure.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
The "top cog", all the way to the left in your picture - can you post a picture of the top of it? Also, a picture of the threaded rod (2nd from the left), especially the left end of it. Also, is there a nut on the top of the top cog?
paulsomlo
Well-known member
I found these two items, which may help:
https://media.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/102bfloorjackmanual.pdf
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/overseas-jack-rebuild-help-tutorial.51105/page-16
https://media.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/102bfloorjackmanual.pdf
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/overseas-jack-rebuild-help-tutorial.51105/page-16
paulsomlo
Well-known member
From your description, the threaded rod should thread into the top cog AND the threaded rod should be constrained from turning by virtue of a hex or square section that would fit into PN 15 on the exploded diagram. This way, the threaded rod, rather than spinning, will move up and down to seat the ball.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Your picture shows the ball being present - the drawing doesn't use a ball; it has an integral needle valve.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
You do need the ball, it won't work without it.
The threaded part - is any of it's cross section hex or square shaped?
The threaded part - is any of it's cross section hex or square shaped?
O.K. Cleaned everything up with old gaskets. I pushed the release valve inside the jack body and it started to move down. Guess it was hung up in the release position causing my problem. I reinstalled the threaded rod into the top assembly adjusted the rod so it just touched the washer with the D shaped hole in it when seated to top assembly and put the assembly back in. It now closes and opens correctly. Must be the steel ball came from the over pressure valve I must have missed to the right of the jack. Mistake happened when I pushed down on the lift arm and fluid squirted out of the exposed holes. Now I need a correct rebuilding kit. Any sources for the above jack someone posted??
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Hydraulic Part Supply in Sawyer KS: (620) 594-2247
Beauregard
Well-known member
The Daytona jack sure isn't a throw-away tool. Lots of them are in use in commercial shops and tire stores.
There's a bolt in the assembly that the handle slides into. Loosen that bolt, slide the handle in, and retighten the bolt.
I'd still rebuild the old jack. Having two floor jacks has helped me a few times. As long as you have the space.
There's a bolt in the assembly that the handle slides into. Loosen that bolt, slide the handle in, and retighten the bolt.
I'd still rebuild the old jack. Having two floor jacks has helped me a few times. As long as you have the space.
O.K. Thanks for the input. Will call them tomorrow. If this jack works out will go to son's shop for him and if I need it can grab it anytime. He has my vintage Walker 2 tonner. I rebuilt it many years ago and still going. Previous owner left it outside for some time as junk as it was tired gave it to me but I went thru it sandblasted to parts painted her up and still going strong. This one I am trying to rebuild was left out in the street about 15 years ago down the street when owners moved. Filled it up and was great until a month ago. Hope the Daytona works as good as the other ones. Will post if I can get a kit. Thanks to the forum for all your guidance on this job. Great resource for info.
Hi Letting forum know I contacted Hydraulic Parts Supply. Owner Steve had come out of Hospital stay and called me. Very great guy to deal with and I am sending me my old seals so he can match them up for my application. Thank you for the tip on this.Appreciate the help.
O.K. I have all the seals in where they go except for the pump seals. My model has 2 seals and 2 back up seals. I cannot get the seals to sit correctly in their grooves no matter what I try. Almost as if they are too big but are the correct ones. The seals are located identical to the above Brute model 102B floor jack someone posted. Part numbers 22,23 and 24 in the diagram. Is there a trick to get these in? I can fit the back up seal on the bottom groove alright but just cannot get the o ring seal that sits on top of the backup seal. About out of of ideas. Is there a tapered install tool to do this?
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Quote
Are you sure that you have the order correct? Looking down from the top of the hydraulic unit, bottom-most element should be the oring, above that a backup ring (probably white plastic and split), and above that the oil seal that keeps oil from exiting the jack and keeps the outside world at bay. The diagram only shows three pieces - are you sure that your model requires four?
Yes I am sure of the parts I have. On my jack I pulled two teflon blocker rings and two seals. Blocker rings on bottom of each groove and o ring on top of it.There are are 2 separate grooves in the bore to accommodate them. My teflon rings are not split. And I can install them properly but cannot fit the o rings into the groove on top of them as I found them. Looks like too big an o ring but the old ones match the new ones. If you look on line for videos everybody struggles installing them. In the videos they cut the video off then come back and say wow that was a tough job to get o rings in but all done. Looked at 3 videos and all the same. So there must be a trick to get these in. I am using a dental pick to maneuver the o rings in but as soon as I get one side in the other side pops out. Even had son hold one side of o ring in while trying to slide opposite side in the groove but it pops out every time. Is there some trick or special tool to get these in. Thought of making a tapered rod so I can slide the o ring down and get it seated in the groove. Thanks
paulsomlo
Well-known member
I would have thought that the back up ring might be on top of the oring in at least one of those grooves - is it possible the jack has been rebuilt at some point?
Do not know. Picked it up down the street about 10 years go by the curb. Owners were moving so I took a chance on it. Has worked well for all this time. My Jack is a Shinn-Fu model G 818 as stated above. I marked down how the backers and seals came out but as you said does not mean somebody was in there. Just cannot get both the backer and o ring into their groove together. Maybe freeze the o ring to allow it to be more ridgid and shove it in place. As it is now the damn o ring just wiggles around when you try to shove it in with the backer already in place. Have spent several hours trying to get it in. Walk away then retry. Thanks.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Can you reverse the order - oring then backup ring?
Hi, I got it. Decided to freeze the O rings so they will not be too flexible. I made a stopper plug from some tubing almost the size of the bore and epoxied a stick in the center so I can pull the tube out later. The stopper top was just below the bottom of the lower groove so the O ring could not make it's way below the groove and instead find it's way in the machined groove. So I did as you suggested and placed a blocker ring first in the lowest groove then removed an O ring from the freezer and slid it down around the stopper I made and worked the O ring on top of the blocker ring. Then got the next O ring out of the freezer and placed that in the upper groove easily. Then put the blocker ring on top of the o ring. It took a bit to get it in on top of the O ring but worked it in. Pulled out my stopper I made and lubed up the plunger and it gave some resistance but slid in with a nice tight fit. Will fill jack tomorrow to see how it works. Wow 3 days on this job. What a struggle. Hope this helps others . Thanks again for guidance from the forum. Appreciate the support. Great forum.