Floor jack recommendations? Something <70lbs

[stickshift]

Looking to get a floor jack. I live in an apartment and don't have a garage to keep it in, and I'll have to do my wrenching off site, so I'll have to lift the jack and place in the trunk, so a 100lb jack isn't going to work for me. But I have a handtruck I can use to move the jack between my apartment and car, so I'm not limited to only aluminum jacks. I figure 70lbs is about the max I'd want to lift into and out of the trunk.

I've read a lot of negative reviews about the Craftsman jacks. I'm in a new town and don't have any friends here, so I really don't want to get caught with a failing jack and having to call a taxi to get to a hardware store (if the shops are open) or calling for a tow truck or other emergency help (if the shops are closed), so I'm not looking to get the cheapest possible jack.

Also, my car (Honda Accord) is not lowered, so I don't need a super low profile jack.

Any suggestions for jacks that would meet my needs?

 

[bart1]

Personally, I just have a HF jack, but pretty nice jackstands. They have planty of 70 lb options.

 

[1984Datsun]

One of these might work well. You might need to use some 2x10 boards under it every now and then to get the car high enough to work under it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...n-lightweight-aluminum-racing-jack-68052.html

There are some smaller lighter versions that you can get...

Got sick of doing that with the small lightweight jacks, so that's why I bought this... not to mention it is the lowest AND the highest lifting jack...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-pump-25-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68049.html

It is heavy, but man, is it nice to not have to put boards under the jack and worry about it sliding/shifting on the boards and falling.

Plus I got it for 75 bucks out the door.

It is built well, just give it a prelim check over when you get it home and test it out a few times... most likely, it'll be fine.

I had a Duralast aluminum 1.5 ton jack that looks exactly like the HF 1.5 ton compact one, and it broke because a car slipped off of the pad, breaking the pad off in the process. (operator error, it wasn't me, but my neighbor) It wedged the pad in between the frame and the engine block.

 

[stickshift]

Personally, I just have a HF jack, but pretty nice jackstands. They have planty of 70 lb options.

Yeah, I was checking out this HF jack. I figure a 3-ton jack won't be too strained with hoisting a 3,000 lb car. And the rapid pump will come in handy because I'll be wrenching off site (like a commercial parking lot during off hours), so I'll want to be quick about it.

 

[stickshift]

Got sick of doing that with the small lightweight jacks, so that's why I bought this... not to mention it is the lowest AND the highest lifting jack...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-pump-25-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68049.html

It is heavy, but man, is it nice to not have to put boards under the jack and worry about it sliding/shifting on the boards and falling.

Looks pretty similar and is priced about the same as the 3 ton jack I linked to in the post above. Seems like the differences are the 2.5 ton jack is lower max load rated but lifts a little bit higher. Both weigh about 70lbs. I suppose for a 3,000 lb car, either can easily handle the load, so I should probably go for the extra lift height of the 2.5 ton jack.

 

[johnems]

I have this jack and love it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QMV70M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CD1]

Harbor Freight will have their Rapid Pump 1.5 Ton compact aluminum jack on sale 11-25 thru 11-27. That one weighs just 30 lbs. and might be all the jack you need.

HTH

http://blackfriday.com/harborfreight-ad-scan.html

 

[stickshift]

Harbor Freight will have their Rapid Pump 1.5 Ton compact aluminum jack on sale 11-25 thru 11-27. That one weighs just 30 lbs. and might be all the jack you need.

To be sure, the 40lb differential between this and the more heavy duty steel jacks is tempting.

My concern with this is durability, and also lift height. It gets to 14.75". Is that enough to get underneath? With a creeper? Is it safe to put a 2x10 under the jack to gain some lift? Obviously I'd use jack stands rather than ask this jack to hold the car up.

 

[1984Datsun]

To be sure, the 40lb differential between this and the more heavy duty steel jacks is tempting.

My concern with this is durability, and also lift height. It gets to 14.75". Is that enough to get underneath? With a creeper? Is it safe to put a 2x10 under the jack to gain some lift? Obviously I'd use jack stands rather than ask this jack to hold the car up.

I doubt you'll be able to get under there on a creeper when it's only about 15" off of the ground. I'm not too porky, and I can't get under a car on a creeper when it's lifted that high... also, when trying to turn a wrench with your arms against your chest, well... it don't work too well...

The durability of both the aluminum and steel HF jacks is fine. However, if you or someone else happens to misplace the jack pad when lifting like my neighbor did, the weight of the car will snap the swivel plate off without a problem if it gets wedged in between to hard places...

The steel jack is much more durable and would take this accident without missing a beat.

I had a 20% off coupon when I purchased the 2.5 ton floor jack... 75 or so bucks out the door.

Safe to put a 2x10 under the jack? Somewhat, but I don't recommend it. I've done it many times (like hundreds) and never liked doing it... PITA, and not to mention that the board normally didn't let the jack roll while lifting the car... not to mention the width of the board sticking out from under the jack can be a problem that hinders jack stand placement.

so you gotta watch real close and make sure that it isn't going to fall off of the jack. If you don't, you could end up with a new hole/dent in the floor pan or a long *** scratch/dent in the side of the car... thankfully I haven't had to experience that, but I can see how that could happen.

Yes, it's a lot easier to carry and move the aluminum jack, but you'll find the lift height to be a bit of a problem with certain tasks...

If I were to do this all over again, I'd get the steel lo-pro at the start.

I've used/still use trolley jacks (all of them are a narrow, tippy, and scary pieces of ****... hate using them...) bottle jacks, aluminum 'racing' floor jacks, and steel floor jacks... a floor jack is better than trolley and bottle by far, even if it's made of aluminum. If you get an aluminum one, skip over the 1.5 ton HF compact version... the narrow inside the frame front wheel set up makes it slightly tippy, and the handle gets in the way more than it helps.

Hope this helps.

 

[KyleQ]

I LOVE LOVE LOVE my XL35 jack. I have one, my brother has two, my father has one, and my brother's boss has two as well. Low profile but lifts high enough for trucks too!

 

[stickshift]

I doubt you'll be able to get under there on a creeper when it's only about 15" off of the ground. I'm not too porky, and I can't get under a car on a creeper when it's lifted that high... also, when trying to turn a wrench with your arms against your chest, well... it don't work too well...

The durability of both the aluminum and steel HF jacks is fine. However, if you or someone else happens to misplace the jack pad when lifting like my neighbor did, the weight of the car will snap the swivel plate off without a problem if it gets wedged in between to hard places...

The steel jack is much more durable and would take this accident without missing a beat.

I had a 20% off coupon when I purchased the 2.5 ton floor jack... 75 or so bucks out the door.

Safe to put a 2x10 under the jack? Somewhat, but I don't recommend it. I've done it many times (like hundreds) and never liked doing it... PITA, and not to mention that the board normally didn't let the jack roll while lifting the car... not to mention the width of the board sticking out from under the jack can be a problem that hinders jack stand placement.

so you gotta watch real close and make sure that it isn't going to fall off of the jack. If you don't, you could end up with a new hole/dent in the floor pan or a long *** scratch/dent in the side of the car... thankfully I haven't had to experience that, but I can see how that could happen.

Yes, it's a lot easier to carry and move the aluminum jack, but you'll find the lift height to be a bit of a problem with certain tasks...

If I were to do this all over again, I'd get the steel lo-pro at the start.

I've used/still use trolley jacks (all of them are a narrow, tippy, and scary pieces of ****... hate using them...) bottle jacks, aluminum 'racing' floor jacks, and steel floor jacks... a floor jack is better than trolley and bottle by far, even if it's made of aluminum. If you get an aluminum one, skip over the 1.5 ton HF compact version... the narrow inside the frame front wheel set up makes it slightly tippy, and the handle gets in the way more than it helps.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all this insight. Seems like the lack of lift height is going to force me to take risks by propping up the jack.

I wish my apartment building would let me work on my car in the garage, then I'd just buy a heavy steel jack and not worry about having to lift it.

This one seems like a decent compromise of weight (60lbs), lift height (18 1/4") and price ($140): Torin Aluminum/Steel Race Jack, 2 1/2-Ton, Model# T84025

 

[stickshift]

I LOVE LOVE LOVE my XL35 jack.

>>70 lbs. Non-starter for my needs.

 

[stickshift]

This one seems like a decent compromise of weight (60lbs), lift height (18 1/4") and price ($140): Torin Aluminum/Steel Race Jack, 2 1/2-Ton, Model# T84025

Possibly an even better compromise: HF Rapid Pump 2 Ton Lightweight Aluminum Racing Jack
43lbs, 18 1/2" lift height, $130 (on sale)

Anyone have experience with this floor jack?

 

[Outlawmws]

A couple of ramps are a lot easier/faster to deal with for basic under the car work, and then the smaller jack and Jack stands will do for things like changing tires/brakes.

 

[stickshift]

A couple of ramps are a lot easier/faster to deal with for basic under the car work, and then the smaller jack and Jack stands will do for things like changing tires/brakes.

Agreed. Only problem is that I don't have a garage, so everything needs to be stored in my apartment. So it's either jack+jack stands+ramps or jack+jack stands (and in either case, +all the other tools).

 

[skruft]

My own floor jacks are big and heavy, but when the mobile wheel repair service came to my house to repair two wheels, the man used two light HF jacks to lift the side of my SUV and said he had good luck with them. I was surprised they stood up that well in daily service. So, I would buy one of those if I needed one.

 

[BHH]

I suggest getting a bad *** heavy jack that you can use once you move out and in the meantime just using one of these bad boys to transport to and from your car...

 

[pop pop]

See if you can find an old Walker 883 which is a Hein Warner O'Boy. Very durable and rated 2500#. Handle is easily removable and weighs about 75#. I've got one for a very similar reason as you. I've always used it as my carry jack when visiting the wrecking yard. Search on here for Elroy's rebuild of an O'boy.