Floor Prep and Epoxy choices

[Bigmike65]

I am brand new to the forum so please bear with me. Been reading lots of posts with some great advice given.

I have a 20x25 detached garage. Has power but no climate control. The garage will be used for my classic car and for my motorcycle. The bike drips some fluid (Harley - what a shocker) the car does not. This is going to be my man cave.

I am getting ready for my contractor to come in, break up the existing floor and pour a new slab. We agreed on a 6” slab, vapor barrier, steel mesh and cross cuts. The garage is a little damp, covered by trees so it does not get much sun. Trying to keep it as dry as possible inside for my car. My contractor has no idea about epoxy flooring. I will either do it myself or have a professional do it.

Seeing that it will be a fresh pour - how should I tell my contractor to leave the surface ? How should he leave the surface to make it less labor intensive for the next step ? The epoxy floor.

When it comes to epoxy I am looking for a royal blue color. My steel tool cabinets are red. Some professionals that I have spoken to that do commercial grade epoxy flooring do not have many color choices. Can someone recommend something close to commercial grade that comes in a blue color ?

If I tackle the epoxy job myself - I’m sure I can do it - can you recommend a high quality do it yourself product with color choices in blue ?

Thank you. Mike

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

BigMike, we have several shades in Polyurea and Epoxy.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Bigmike65]

Thank you Legacy.

My other main concern is moisture. I live in a low lying area and the water table is high. After heavy rains you can see damp patches on the existing garage floor. The garage was built in 1928 and what looks like a 3” slab was probably poured in the early 1950’s. So moisture is definitely pooling under the garage.

What is the best solution to deal with moisture abatement when it comes to pouring a new slab ? I would guess using gravel couldn’t hurt.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Better voices here for this, but look into a proper moisture barrier before you pour the slab.
Your mason will likely insist.

 

[Pntyrmvr]

6 mil plastic vapor barrier will work fine. The concrete finishers may not like it as it slows the moisture loss of the concrete and makes their day longer. I’ve always got groans when the plastic is already down when they show up. “You don’t really need that stuff, yah know.” Sure buddy, sure. Humor me.

Have the exact thickness vapor barrier written into the contract specifications and/or put directly onto the drawings. The trades can’t argue when it’s plainly shown next to the spec for the concrete reinforcing steel. “You guys wouldn’t skip the steel would ya? Same with the plastic vapor barrier then too.”


“Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money.”

 

[Armorpoxy]

Vapor barrier should stop any moisture from coming up through the slab. Once it's cured (test first with the plastic sheet method) you should be good to go. Make sure to properly prep per your supplier's instructions and use primer that helps greatly.