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Floor Problems, continual

JStewart

New member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
1
Afternoon All-

I've sent the better part of 2 months trying to apply an epoxy floor. It is in my new house and never did it in the last house because of time and room. The garage is my outdoor hobby room. Work on some cars, clean some guns, do a little reloading, you know just normal get out of the house guy stuff. It isn't for a showroom floor or anything. Have I had a lesson.

My mistakes have been:

1) Buying the Quikcrete stuff from Lowes
2) Trying to hurry up, you can do it in a day right?
3) Not using common sense when I should

I applied 3 gallons of the inferior product up above. I waited to give it some cure time before I applied the clear but then, it delaminated and I chalked it up to bad prep, not engough prep, or other it's my fault stuff.

So I bought a big grinder, diamond tip blade, and proceeded to clean everything off. About 1/4" of concrete in the end. I then cleaned the floor, degreased everything, cleaned and degreased again.

After I felt it was clean I applied a Foxfire P1007 concrete sealer that soaked in to provide a good moisture barrier and let that dry for 3 days.

I acid etched the floor with the 1 to 3 mixture, and let dry again for like 3 days to be sure. I made sure the concrete had the correct pH and all as well.

I then mixed up 2 more can of the inferior product, let it sit the requisite 30 minutes, and re-applied. All looked well.

3 days later I applied the clear. This was 1 week ago today.

All this past week, the clear never properly dried. I called the above company and they said, sometimes it takes longer than 72 hours to dry. Call us back in a couple of days. The color of the clear, when applied was white in color, has literally changed daily. It can go white and then look like clear, and then back to a white.

This morning, to my disgust, I found patches where the clear appears to have completely delaminated the base coat and now I have concrete spots on my floor again. Needless to say, I'm not going to get more of the above stuff. They need to refund me some money. Close to $600 dollars. This doesn't cover the cost of the equipment I rented to level the floor and clean it all up.

More than likely, before I can put anything else on, I'm going to have to strip this junk off again. I want a nice floor that I can work on. Prep isn't a problem. Time is now a problem. I have my other house rented, want to get the rest of my stuff out of my old garage, and work 60 hours a week.

Questions:
How can I determine if it needs to be completely stripped out before re-applying?
What is a good product, given the proper prep, will do what it says, and will the company stand behind it?
Any other good steps or pointers anyone might have?

All opinions appreciated, and sales welcome too.
 
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tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
I'm not too sure what exactly your problem was caused by but your prep seems very un-conventional. Is the sealer you used recommended by the epoxy manufacturer? What was the purpose of etching the floor after you applied the sealer product. If the sealer wasn't part of the standard prep suggested by the manufacturer, I would guess that you may have screwed yourself by designing your own "system" and stacked incompatible products on top of each other.
 

nate379

Banned
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
7,279
Location
Palmer, AK
I agree.

Both myself and my Dad have used the Quickrete from Lowe's (not to mention many other people on this board) and it turned out nice.

Like I tell a few of my guys at work... "I swear you could **** up a *********". :lol_hitti
 

porphyre

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Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,321
After I felt it was clean I applied a Foxfire P1007 concrete sealer that soaked in to provide a good moisture barrier and let that dry for 3 days.

I acid etched the floor with the 1 to 3 mixture, and let dry again for like 3 days to be sure. I made sure the concrete had the correct pH and all as well.

3 days later I applied the clear. This was 1 week ago today.

I'd skip out on the sealer unless you know you have a moisture issue with your slab and have been instructed to use it by a professional. I realize the website (http://www.foxfireusa.com/pdf/P-1007 Sealer(1).pdf) says it won't adversely effect surface coatings (including epoxy) but I don't really believe that. Also, the Quickrete instructions specifically say to not apply it over a sealer (http://www.quikretecoatings.com/pdf/02_50020 Series QUIKRETE Epoxy Garage Floor Coating Kit.pdf)

Foxfire says their stuff takes 1-7 days to cure. You waited 3. Did you do the water wash after applying the Foxfire? Their site says that will improve adhesion by a top coat.

I also dunno why you'd etch after your sealer.

You also haven't mentioned where you are. Epoxy needs to be applied to slab and ambient temps above the mid-50's or so (varies by product)

I say: grind it, skip the sealer, use Rustoleum Solvent Based (Pro coating) for low-ish cost, easy application, and decent longevity. Use Wolverine Epoxy if you can pay $1+ sq/ft.

Good luck.
 
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scout57

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
20
if I were you I would contact a pro and start by running a few tests to determine suitability of the concrete, your first mistake ( IMHO) was the acid, then I am sure it's no surprise that most of the materials sold Thur the big box guys are of substantially less quality that the stuff the guys that do floors every day use, so find a couple local pros to give you a price to correct your problem trust me **** on **** = more ****
buy the way Rustoleum = volks wagon Stonhard= BMW they are both owned by the same company and the qualities are vastly different I have used both as far as the foxfire stuff goes if its a lithium silicate good, if its a sodium or potassium silicate be care full if you coat over it to soon it will react and blow your system off if the moisture content in the concrete is to hi.. good luck
 

NextCoatings

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
24
Location
West Michigan
Did I read that you acid etched after sealing? Epoxy does not like the cold. 72 hours on a 50 degree floor is probably not long enough. The white to clear and back to white is the clear coat reacting to the epoxy that is still curing. At least, that would be my guess. Good thing diamond grinders are good for about 10 floors...hopefully you don't have to wear it out.
 

attitude32

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
6
I used the Quickcrete product on my shop floors. It has held op fairly well,but I use my shop daily and hard on it.My floor was sealed by the cocrete people. Therefore the reason mine has shown some abuse..The second pour of my shop was done by a different concrete contractor who did not use sealer..This area is still perfect, although I am not at rough on that area,it is still good..So I would say you may have srewed yourself on the Quickcrete product..I think is says on the label not to use over sealed concrete..sorry
 
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