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Floor Pull Point

gumbudah

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Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
290
Location
Northern Wisconsin
I built a garage a few years back. It's got all the bells and whistles except one that I regret not doing I think probably because I didn't think of it at the time. That is some sort of super strong pull point on the floor at the head of each stall to be able to hook a comealong to a disabled vehicle and pull it into the stall. I'd like to add it but I'm trying to figure out how to do it. One garage has wirsbo in the floor so I don't want to drill down into it to install anchor bolts. That garage also has one row of 6x8x16 block at the base with 2x6 walls on top of it. The other garage just has one row of 4x8x16 block and no wirsbo.

I'm thinking I want to drill a 1" or so hole in the block so the bottom of the hole is tangent to the slab. Then put a 1" bar through the hole. On the inside end, weld on some sort of pull ring. On the outside my thought was to drive a bar maybe 4 feet into the ground adjacent to the edge of the slab, then weld it to the 1" bar sticking through the block. This way I'm putting all of the pulling force directly against the edge of the slab. Should be mega strong, without the chance of cracking the slab or having anchor bolts pulled out. Anyone done anything like this?
I think I've seen a couple posts with folks putting 2" square receivers in the slab but it's a little late for that...

So:
1. Do you have any pics of floor pull points? if so, post them please!
2. Any further ideas on how a fella could do this?
 
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GMCGarage

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Jan 31, 2017
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Not sure the exact capacity you need, but some Hilti drop in anchors could be installed, and then when you need it, bolt a plate with a ring to it. This would put all the pull in shear, and according to their website, a 3/4" drop in anchor is good for 5000lbs. So 2 or 3 of them that a plate can be anchored to you should be able to pull almost anything.
 

Jackfre

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Dec 26, 2010
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4,408
Location
N CA
You can map the layout of the radiant tubing with an infra-red gun and core drill a clean hole to fit a piece of 2" sch. 80 pipe. The spacing of the tubing is likely 12". Weld the pull plate atop that.
I put 5 receiver hitches with rebar welded to them before the pour. They have worked out well when I've needed them.
 

txvwnut

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Jan 1, 2015
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7,610
Location
Bedford, Texas
Get a floor anchor for a body shop frame pulling post. They have a cover built so when not in use they are flush with the floor and will take a great deal force before you break one.
 

TractorJeff

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Dec 8, 2013
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3,309
Location
Elkhorn, WI
There was another thread just last week on this same subject (see below). One fellow calculated it at 600lbs of pulling force. I concurred as I have pulled dead 6k lb tractors up a slight slope into my shop with a come-a-long. It doesn't require as much of an anchor as most people think (think couple of guys pushing a car).
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22124
 
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brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
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5,208
i cored my concrete, 6 inch core then hand auger four feet, got a hook welded to a piece of rebar and filled the hole up with concrete to a little higher than bottom of slab. put a lid over the top and that my pull point, works good
 

wssix99

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Mar 2, 2011
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5,159
Location
Chicago, IL
Lots of people here have dealt with this problem - you just make friends at the local fire department and have them come out with their FLIR camera. Turn on the heat and you can see exactly where the tubes are and mark them out!

136380710172712273067.jpg
 

DCarr2

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Dec 12, 2015
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1,339
Location
Akron NY
That was a last minute addition I made to my floor, adding 2 4' long x 3" wide angle embedded in the floor....
 

rpcraft

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Aug 14, 2014
Messages
1,057
Location
Waco
Honestly i did one for my apartment garage with a my Rigid Rotary hammer drill and 4 inch D ring and some hammer down anchor bolts. Not sure what kind of grade you have going on but mine will pull fine with the truck and the tires aired up and I just make sure to kick the tire chock up every foot or so just in case the cheapo HF come-along decides its gonna go on break. Even if they were flat it wouldn't be an issue. There is just barely enough resistance where I can not do it by hand so the come-along just gets what my muscles can't. I might spoil myself soon and get an electric winch but to be fair I'm better motivated to get the drivetrain back in and finish my LS swap so she can motor in her own self, at which point I'll finish the wiring in the cab and that'll be the last of her parking in the garage and needing a winch inside, lol.
 

rpcraft

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Aug 14, 2014
Messages
1,057
Location
Waco
Anchor bolts were only about 2 to 3 inch depth, and the lateral strength is pretty high.
 
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