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Floor sealer to avoid

mjmbme

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Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
13
Hi!
I have been lurking for sometime, this is a real cool site! I have built a nice garage and I am equipping it as I go. Its only 24x24 with 10' ceiling. As an ex professional tech I intend this space will see a lot of wrenching. Along with insulation, heat, a/c, lots of lighting and outlets, etc...I planned ahead and thought I did some good research on floor coatings.

I ended up buying a product called SUPER DIAMOND CLEAR which is put down with a roller or sprayer. It went on well, and to my delight is semi glossy and has indeed sealed the new brite white look in.

However the first time a drop of engine oil hit it, when I wiped it up (immediately) it was a sticky mess and allowed a STAIN!
Carb cleaner?
Forget it.

Do not use this for any area that will ever be exposed to industrial chemicals. Furthermore it will have to be abraded off, and every chemist I talk to says the epoxy will most likely NOT bond with it.

Its called SUPER DIAMOND CLEAR, here is a link.

http://www.euclidchemical.com/fileshare/elit/CSBroc4.pdf

What happened is I trusted a friend of a friend who works at a local concrete plant. He swore by this stuff, and now I am stuck. I am out $100 + for the stuff, the labor and now the $$ and time to re do it this summer when I should be just making $$$.

Dont use it.
 
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PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
I notice from the brochure that only two of the products are noted for "chemical resistance" - that would have been the first thing I checked for in something for a shop floor...
 

Morrisman

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Nov 7, 2006
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Angeles City, Philippines
PAToyota said:
I notice from the brochure that only two of the products are noted for "chemical resistance" - that would have been the first thing I checked for in something for a shop floor...
Is engine oil classed as a chemical though?

If a floor coating won't resist engine oil then where would you use it? Maybe in a house, but then who would have a clearcoated concrete floor inside their home. :headscrat
 
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mjmbme

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Feb 8, 2007
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Morrisman said:
Is engine oil classed as a chemical though?

If a floor coating won't resist engine oil then where would you use it? Maybe in a house, but then who would have a clearcoated concrete floor inside their home. :headscrat


Both are valid points, and I own the mistake. However, I did take pains to specify to the salesman the nature of the shop, its intended use etc...I even talked with him about prep, different stains and clear coats, epoxies, clear resin pours and many other facets.

He just kept steering the topic back to this SUPER DIAMOND CLEAR. Eventually I bought it. I applied it. I have to live with it.

Its probably fine around a pool or a dog run or sidewalk.

I just wanted to alert you all because the forum is here to do it. There are some fine garages here. The wrong floor coat could be disasterous.

This summer I will have no choice but to rent a pod and stuff everything in it, machanically remove the coating and then epoxy coat the floor.

By then it will need cleaned out anyway! lol!
 

PAToyota

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Engine oil is definitely a chemical...

I'd be discussing it again with the person that you talked to. A "curing and sealing" compound is definitely a different animal from a "finish coat" product. Curing compounds are specifically just to keep moisture in the concrete while it cures - there is absolutely no guarantee after that. Sealing compounds are often meant to protect the concrete but may be "sacrificial" in nature.

If he recommended the product based on your discussion of end use, I'd have him out there looking at it and recommending a fix for it.
 
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boiler7904

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NW IN
PAToyota said:
If he recommended the product based on your discussion of end use, I'd have him out there looking at it and recommending a fix for it.

If he screwed up in the first place, would you really want the same guy telling you how to fix the problem? The only conversation that I would want to be having with him (and his boss) is about them paying all expenses related to removing the product and applying a product that will meet the needs of the end user.
 
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mjmbme

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Feb 8, 2007
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Again, two valid points. And here is where it gets complicated. Its now been over a year and due to them stalling (its obvious they will not cover anything at all) and my own procrastination here and there plus the fact that I am working in there...I really dont see this concrete plant helping out.

So I have just chalked it up to THE SCHOOL OF LIFE and this summer I am moving on.

Well that and making sure EVERYONE knows not to use this product for this application.
 

PoorOwner

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Feb 10, 2007
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CA
Thank you for the warning of this product, it does not sound like a very good quality product, the good thing is you didn't pay too much for it.

You can hire someone to shot blast the floor that will remove the paint AND also prep the floor for proper adhesion for a automotive grade epoxy coating. It is a good step to take even if your floor was not previously painted.

You don't have to do a thing beside clear the floor. A good epoxy will cost much more than $100 though.
 

jaredwb

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Feb 14, 2007
Messages
11
Location
Florida
You could also have a company grind and polish the floor. It would, like shot blasting and epoxy, cost more than the $100 for a sealer, but it is a better final product than the epoxy.

Thnks for the heads up and Good luck
 

Special55

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Aug 30, 2006
Messages
100
Location
S. E. Michigan
I used this product on my colored/stamped concrete patio with great results.

I believe this is the intended use for the product and you were given some bad advise.
My experience is that it holds up for two years (Michigan weather) and then needs to be reapplied. I just used a power washer, dried out the relief cut with compressed air and reapplied.
I would put it more under the classification of an Olympic style water sealer not an industrial style concrete floor product.

Hope you get it figured out with minimal headache/cost.

Rich
 
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mjmbme

Member
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Feb 8, 2007
Messages
13
Just to wrap this up or wind it down I should state again that I imagine this product would be ok on sidewalks, around pools and etc...in areas like public clubhouses and walkways it is unlikely to come incontact with carb cleaner and etc. so there in it may be just fine.

I too have narrowed it down to bad sales advice, and in the end thats my fault for taking the advice. I kinda knew epoxy was THE WAY.

So this summer I will rent the pod, stuff it full, rent the shot peener or sander or wire scrubber or something and get the floor redone right. As a bonus I will also get my spray insulation at the sametime!

Thats two budget busters but then guess what? Thats over and done.

Except for the plywood and drywall and cabinets and....lol!

Thanks for understanding I just wanted to warn others.
 
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