Floor treatment - Would you do it again the same way?

[Harley Monster]

Keen, this is very interesting. Was this V-Seal a waterbased product?

I am surprised to hear that an industrial grade sealer did not keep oil and grease from penetrating the concrete finish.

 

[Rick H.]

I have a question for the guys who seem happy with the Big Box Store epoxy products, did you apply the clear epoxy over the color coat? I'll be making the decision soon on a flooring product and the price of the Box Store product is only appealing without extra cost of the clear.

Thanks.
Rick

 

[Harley Monster]

Does any one out there have experience with using only a Concrete Densifier on a hard trowelled concrete suface?

I know what it is suppose to do, but I would like to hear from someone who has used the product and are you happy with the results.

I like the theory of its use, but most say it will not seal against oil and grease. What is your experience?

 

[keen]

Keen, this is very interesting. Was this V-Seal a waterbased product?

I am surprised to hear that an industrial grade sealer did not keep oil and grease from penetrating the concrete finish.

V-Seal has a number of products, but the Instrua-Seal 117 that I used is not water based. You don't mix it, and god help you if you get it on aluminum or glass that you didn't want etched.

http://www.vseal.com/index.php?cmp=product_details&id=6

They have a number of other products, but this one is "a chemically reactive sealer penetrating the surface to become an integral part of the substrate....It is an excellent product for hardening, dust proofing and sealing of concrete." for whatever good that does. ;-)


Maybe I'll get some pictures after I can find some floor space again soon.....

 

[keen]

Does any one out there have experience with using only a Concrete Densifier on a hard trowelled concrete surface.

Mine was machine troweled - but 117 was marketed as a densifier type of product. Definitely didn't help with oil/grease. With water, it doesn't bead up and roll away like a waxed/urethaned/epoxieed surface, either.

 

[Harley Monster]

Thanks for posting this Keen, this is the real life experiences I have been looking for.

Scotty at Legacy and a couple other posters have said the densifier does not prevent oil from penetrating the concrete, but it is good to hear it from an actual user. I have no reason to doubt Scotty or the others, but hearing it from a user separates it from a sales pitch.

I am glad I have this information, Scotty is suggesting Legacy's HD-356VOC Urethane Sealer and that sounds like the product I need.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I have a question for the guys who seem happy with the Big Box Store epoxy products, did you apply the clear epoxy over the color coat? I'll be making the decision soon on a flooring product and the price of the Box Store product is only appealing without extra cost of the clear.

Thanks.
Rick

I didn't clear mine.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used a sealer/curer on my new concrete. I wnated something simple, just spray it on. Gasoline eats it up faster than you can bend down and wipe it up. Would I do it again, not sure, but it was cheap. I'd be upset if I spent big money to have epoxy do the same of bubble and peel off.

 

[Harley Monster]

Nuttsgt, do you remember the name or specs of the product you had problems with that you could share with the rest of us? Information about what products to avoid is just as important as recommending products that work.

To me it is not so much the money involved as it is applying a product that I will be happy with for a long time.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'll look tommorrow, I believe I have some of it left. It was something came from the concrete plant.

 

[Jaguar Fan]

my project: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16957

I don't weld, but do everything else. It has held up perfectly - no chipping, and the clear coat did not turn yellow. I like the look of floor tile, but I'd still do it again in a high solids epoxy.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I used a sealer/curer on my new concrete. I wnated something simple, just spray it on. Gasoline eats it up faster than you can bend down and wipe it up. Would I do it again, not sure, but it was cheap. I'd be upset if I spent big money to have epoxy do the same of bubble and peel off.

Mine has had gas sit on it for weeks (long story), no damage other than slight yellowing.

 

[strnge]

Subscribed for when I coat my floor.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I took a picture and have the product name, I will post it in the morning.

Ok here's a couple of pics.

What I used.

What gas does to it.

 

[Harley Monster]

I started this thread about a year ago and now the time is fast approaching to seal my floors of my Dream Garage.

I would like to revitalize this thread and once again ask for real life experiences with the different types and manufacturers of concrete sealing products.

Everyone says their products are the greatest; I want to hear real life experiences.

I would like to hear the good and bad experiences, any problems during application and mostly how your floors are holding up and would you do the same process over again.

My floor has a very smooth machine trowel finish which was hand toweled harder after the machining. The floors look like they could be a dance floor.

I simply want to seal the floors against oil stains; I do not want to add any color, I just want my floors to look like they do now only FOREVER. Of course I want to stop the dusting too and the effects of other automotive chemicals.

I don’t care if the floors have a sheen or not, but a nice sheen like the big box stores would be nice and I think easier to maintain.

Please post your do’s and don’ts, I want to learn from your experiences. What are your recommendations?

 

[Norcal]

My shop was done in a 2-part epoxy from Blowes, it wa supposed to be tinted brick red because of the soil here & it turned out to be a salmon color, other then that it's done pretty well, fast forward to last fall & when it was time to do the floor in my new storeroom went w/ a stain & sealer from Home Despot, big mistake! The floor is really slick & scratches really easy.

Shop floor.

Storeroom 1 of 2.

2 of 2

Sorry about the sideways photos, they are fine on Photobucket & show up wrong here.

 

[KPSquared]

I know this isn't going to help with your "what have you ACTUALLY done" request, but just thought I'd let you know my plans. . .

I have a brand new 28x34 pour happening this spring. After a TON of reading on here and other places, looking for the same results you have been looking for, and not wanting the look of tile (although I still think this is one of the best options), I have decided I'm going to use Legacy's sealer/clear coat combo. There hasn't been a ton of long term reports, but from all that I've read (I'm super **** about research) it seems like it will do exactly what I'm looking for. (which seems to be pretty much what you're looking for)

I was just on Legacy's site and they even have it packaged now. . .

So, that would be 2 coats of the HD015CLR (Standard Epoxy Clear Sealer) followed by HD356VOC (Urethane Clear Coat) with HDTABALUM-1pint (Soft Skid, Anti-skid Additive) added in for traction. I am still out on whether or not I'm going to dye the floor first with their Concrete Acid Stain. flybefree's shop just looks so good with the color on the floor that I'm tempted to go with a little color before I seal it all up.

The only thing I'm not 100% clear on is what the purpose of using the epoxy first is as opposed to just using the urethane sealer. I assume that if you do wear through the sealer, the epoxy will end up as the exposed layer, rather than the raw concrete.

Either way, based on Legacy's site, I can have my floor done for around $1000 and about $250 less if I forgo the stain. That's for 850 sq.ft. (that's how much of my floor will be exposed)

Just thought I'd share what I've decided on. Hope it helps a bit. If you want to wait another 5 years on your decision, I'll give you a good review on how it worked out for me. . .

 

[Harley Monster]

KPS, this kind of summary of your research helps a great deal, there has to be others out there who wanted shy away from painting their floor and wanted just a natural concrete look and still want to seal against grease, oil and other automotive product stains.

It is my understanding that the urethanes wear better and have a better abraision resistance than the epoxys, perhaps the epoxys bond better to the concrete.

I was on Legacy's website last night and was disappointed to find out Legacy will not ship Scotty's recommended products to Southern California. It has to do with the Air Quality District here, this is the first I have heard of this.

Has anyone used a clear sealer in their garage/shops and been happy with the results? If so, what brand and product?

 

[KPSquared]

There are at least 3 threads on here from guys using legacy's clear. Have you read them? Not many speak of use though. Ryan did it, flybefree, and one other. I'm sure they all have use by now ('cept for flybefree because he just finished it)

I'll dig up what I can for you.

 

[RTcat]

KPS, this kind of summary of your research helps a great deal, there has to be others out there who wanted shy away from painting their floor and wanted just a natural concrete look and still want to seal against grease, oil and other automotive product stains.

It is my understanding that the urethanes wear better and have a better abraision resistance than the epoxys, perhaps the epoxys bond better to the concrete.

I was on Legacy's website last night and was disappointed to find out Legacy will not ship Scotty's recommended products to Southern California. It has to do with the Air Quality District here, this is the first I have heard of this.

Has anyone used a clear sealer in their garage/shops and been happy with the results? If so, what brand and product?

HM,

I went with Legacy's products and am very pleased. I wanted protection from gas/oil drips & spills and ease of sweeping up sawdust. So far it's excelling in those areas for me.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138832

 

[denis4x4]

My shop is a converted 24' X 48' horse barn. After tearing out some stall walls, I came to the conclusion that the 7/8" trailer/stall mats would be the hot ticket. After 18 years, the mats are still in place. Best part is the fact that these mats are easy on the feet and knees. a 4' X 6' mat 3/4" thick is still $44 at most farm supply outlets.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I'll look tommorrow, I believe I have some of it left. It was something came from the concrete plant.

Cure and seal products are not a permanent solution to a working garage. They are weak, wiped out easily by gas.

Monster, do you have a friend in Nevada, Arizona, etc... ? We recently supplied this system to McCall Events in Monterrey. They had me ship to a friends place so they could get the good stuff into CA. This system will be featured in an upcoming Car and Driver article related to McCalls new place.

The clean air district holds us hostage by forcing us to pay an annual fee to ship our products into the district. The HD356voc can't go into CA because of it's voc value, which makes it so powerful.

I wish it wasn't so complicated but it is.

 

[Matt M PA]

I did my floor with a cement stain. My BL recommended it, and while I realize that his idea of "perfect" and mine are totally different.

That being said, it still looks okay, cleans well with Spray 9 and a mop...but I often wish I had done VCT when it would have been easy.

I'd love to do a GarageDeck or similar, but it's just not in the cards for a 32x26 building these days. I also really like the flexitile (sp?) but it's also on the pricey side.