Flooring advantages and disadvantages.

[DPelletier]

As I posted in the heating and AC forum, I often get asked what the "best" solution is for garage heat. My answer is that it depends on a number of variables and I'm thinking that flooring is probably similar, so I'm looking for some opinions to sway me one way or the other.

I did do a search first, but I find that many people tend to simply put forth whatever their choice was and hold it up as the "best" flooring without much discussion on useage.

So....the garage is an attached two car plus workshop totalling 734 sq. ft. It is used as a workshop for small projects, a storage area for my collector car and storage for my wifes DD. It is heated.

I have floor jacks and jack stands and usually have the Superbee up on jackstands every once in awhile for various reasons. I don't plan on any welding, grinding, painting or any really rough work as I have a 4000 sq. ft. metal fabrication shop for that kind of stuff.

I was thinking of epoxy and I obtained a box of Stonhard industrial epoxy but I don't have enough to do the shop (think the box does 400 sq.ft.) and I can't get another box from the same source. Also I'm concerned about the mess and inconvenience prepping the slab. If I damage the exposed aggregate drive whilst etching the shop floor, then I'm dead meat! The workshop area is fully completed with 27 cabinets, rolling toolbox, workbench, etc. so it is inconvenient to move everything out....will likely do 1/2 at a time or even break it into 3 sections.

The slab is 15 years old, has very little grease on it but my wife used to spraybomb stuff on the slab so there is overspray here and there.

If the prep for regular floor paint is far less, then I've considered that as well but am a bit worried about the wear from the Mercedes going in and out 3 times a day. I could stomach a repaint of high traffic areas once every spring...

I also thought about tile but it sounds expensive and time consuming, plus the wife would think I'm certifiably crazy if I tile the garage floor.

I was trying to avoid the racedeck type floors as sealing the concrete and keeping it all clean was important to me.

Anyone use an industrial composite 12" x 12" tile? I know they can lift if they get wet all the time, but I wouldn't mind waxing the floor once a month....

thoughts? Thanks in advance,


Dave

 

[AmericanGarageFloor]

Well, I think you hit the nail on the head. You'll get a reply about ceramic tiles lasting forever, some replies about interlocking garage floor tile, of course some about why garage floor epoxy is the best. They are all right, to some degree or another as it all depends on the circumstance.

We are not a manufacturer. We sell quality garage flooring products from all of the above types except ceramic. We do this because ever garage is different.

You stated that you do not want 'Racedeck style' flooring because you want to protect the concrete and keep it clean. You also stated that paint seemed easier than epoxy. First, don't bother with paint. There are some great threads about some sealers you can use. Less work and price than epoxy and less expensive as well.

If you want to with a solid surface, PVC tiles such as our Premium or Premier offer the protection of a single sheet, a quieter floor than poly propylene, and considerable flexibility in installation. BLT Roll Out Flooring Products offer the ability to use large sheets to protect the floor below.

You can find our products on our website and I am sure you will find a lot more very good information from other perspectives to follow.

 

[DPelletier]

Thank you. PVC tiles seem like a viable option to me.

I did the sealer on the last two shops; the first was a beautiful and new slab and the sealer looked great! it did require touch up if I got gasoline or solvent on it, but I could live with that. The second was an older slab (12 years) and it didn't look quite as sharp but not bad. My current shop would need to have all the paint, overspray and other marks removed in order for sealer to look good...not sure I'm willing to put that effort in and I certainly don't want to grind the concrete down and get dust throughout the entire shop.

Again, I'll look into the PVC tile option.
Thanks

Dave

 

[bdamico]

I think you're wrong. There are tons of threads discussing the advantages of porcelain tile in basically any work setting in painful detail. Tons of threads discussing dropping tools on the tile, jacking up cars on it, and hitting it with hammers. I have yet to see any complaints.

You also see tons of threads where someone says I dropped something on my epoxy and whew it didn't take out too big of a chunk. Or OMG my epoxy has held up 6 months or 6 years and no complaints. And a good amount of people complaining about failure. Basically whatever you want to put in, someone here will tell you it's great.

The advantages and disadvantages of each are well known. You just have to pull the trigger

 

[DPelletier]

The advantages and disadvantages of all types of flooring are not well known to me...hence the thread.

Looking at a 12" x 12" x 1/8" thick composite vinyl tile looks like it could be a front runner for me but I worry about the bit of water than ponds in a 4" x 4" corner at the garage door during heavy rain...

still thinking.

Dave

 

[pauloman]

the suitable solution is a quartz epoxy broadcast floor (using regular sand or fancy colored sand with solvent free epoxy. This is where the sand is broadcast to excess (100% coverage) - resulting in a stone/quartz floor "held in place with epoxy" . These type of floors are used in commercial warehouses with forklift traffic and nail spiked pallets being dragged across them.

see www.epoxyproducts.com/quartz4u.html for info on this sort of commercial floor.

 

[Shea]

Here's an article on vinyl composite tile if you want to learn a little more about it. It can be a fairly inexpensive option compared to other floor surfaces.

You can also look at information about garage floor paint. It's the cheapest way to go, but you will be repainting after a while like others have said.

Just remember, the best floor for you depends on your budget and what you want the floor to do for what you are willing to spend and/or prep. Premium commercial grade epoxy floors installed properly will last 15 to 20 years or more and premium interlocking tile has warranties of 15 years and on from there, but not everyone can or is willing to spend that much.

As you said, there are many variables to consider. I would start with what you are willing to spend per square feet and then start looking from there.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I think you're wrong. There are tons of threads discussing the advantages of porcelain tile in basically any work setting in painful detail. Tons of threads discussing dropping tools on the tile, jacking up cars on it, and hitting it with hammers. I have yet to see any complaints.

You also see tons of threads where someone says I dropped something on my epoxy and whew it didn't take out too big of a chunk. Or OMG my epoxy has held up 6 months or 6 years and no complaints. And a good amount of people complaining about failure. Basically whatever you want to put in, someone here will tell you it's great.

The advantages and disadvantages of each are well known. You just have to pull the trigger

I think there is some confusion. Looks like PVC was the recommended option, NOT porcelain tile. PVC is a great solution for this garage. We sell the Norsk product and a private label product in the PVC

 

[AlphaGarage]

If you do opt for VCT consider an epoxy clear coat to protect it and eliminate waxing - stripping - waxing - stripping...

 

[DPelletier]

Just remember, the best floor for you depends on your budget and what you want the floor to do for what you are willing to spend and/or prep.

Yes, exactly my point. Thanks to all who responded. The expense isn't my primary concern though if I spend less then I can reallocate the funds to other garage projects. Honestly probably my biggest headache is the prep work I hear about for many flooring types; I just can't see grinding or taking 10 steps to etch and rinse and dry several different areas (because the garage isn't empty) while ensuring that nothing in the remaining areas gets dirty, full of dust or splashed with acid!

My car has just undergone an extensive and very expensive 7 year restoration and it simply cannot sit outside for even one night...maybe I could put it in the car trailer for one night, but that wouldn't work well either because my truck and car trailer won't fit in the driveway.

Vinyl tiles or a "heavy duty" (if there is such a thing) floor paint are the current front runners. Paint would be easier and faster, of course and periodic repainting of the high traffic areas is something I could live with. Alternatively the vinyl tile option (using 1/8" thick "through color" tiles) sounds pretty good too with moisture by the OH doors being my primary concern. I'm fine with waxing every so often (actually kind of like it, reminds me of waxing the floors in the family store when I was young).

Dave

 

[JimVonBaden]

VCT is a fine tile for lightweight applications. I have it in my garage. However, it scratches easily, and can be damaged by sharp edged tools and jack stands. You can epoxy over them, and it does make a difference, but they are still more delicate than Porcelain.

I use my garage a lot!

If I were to do it over again, I would go with porcelain tile. It is good at about $1.25 a sq ft if you do your own installation, and it is VERY durable. A little practice and your install will look great, for a garage, and hold up for life.

IF you manage to crack one, they are also easy and cheap to replace.

Jim

 

[DPelletier]

Here's an article on vinyl composite tile if you want to learn a little more about it. It can be a fairly inexpensive option compared to other floor surfaces.

You can also look at information about garage floor paint. It's the cheapest way to go, but you will be repainting after a while like others have said.

.

Thanks, both those articles are enlightening. My question with the whole latex vs. epoxy paint vs. 2 part epoxy would be; What (if any) difference is there in slab prep? The article just states to prep as recommended. If all three require the same prep then I'd go with 2 part epoxy but as I said before; the prep might push me to vinyl tile.

Dave

 

[DPelletier]

VCT is a fine tile for lightweight applications. I have it in my garage. However, it scratches easily, and can be damaged by sharp edged tools and jack stands. You can epoxy over them, and it does make a difference, but they are still more delicate than Porcelain.

I use my garage a lot!

If I were to do it over again, I would go with porcelain tile. It is good at about $1.25 a sq ft if you do your own installation, and it is VERY durable. A little practice and your install will look great, for a garage, and hold up for life.

IF you manage to crack one, they are also easy and cheap to replace.

Jim

Yours looks great. If I was to choose vinyl tiles, it would be a commercial 1/8" thick "through color" tile like you typically see in grocery stores, etc. I have them in my office and they've held up very well though they do require periodic maintenance....only real problem has been where a leaking joint in a condensate drain damaged the tiles in the furnace room...that makes me wonder about the moisture from rain/snow of the daily driver as well as the moisture by the OH doors.

Dave

 

[Garage Flooring]

Yours looks great. If I was to choose vinyl tiles, it would be a commercial 1/8" thick "through color" tile like you typically see in grocery stores, etc. I have them in my office and they've held up very well though they do require periodic maintenance....only real problem has been where a leaking joint in a condensate drain damaged the tiles in the furnace room...that makes me wonder about the moisture from rain/snow of the daily driver as well as the moisture by the OH doors.

Dave

An alternative to that would be the BLT self adhesive PVC tiles. I would highly suggest you stay away from paint and go with an epoxy or a polyurea if that is the route you decide to go.

The best prep for any coating is going to be grinding or blasting. If the floor has never had a sealer or coating you MIGHT be able to get away with acid etching.

 

[AmericanGarageFloor]

So there you have it, lots of different suggestions... I always get a laugh one guy says tile is the best and another says its the worst.

If you are looking for a permanent solution for your garage floor and you decide to go with a coating, do not waste your time or money on a paint. They just do not hold up. Honestly, if I was going that route I would call Legacy or DCS and find a good installer in my area and get it done right. Doing a poor coating or a poor job on a good coating will cost you dearly.

If you decide to do tiles, our premium and premier garage tiles are 1/4" thick PVC. I have them installed in airplane hangars, car dealerships, even amusement parks in Florida. If you are going to go with a solid color, the premium is your best bet. If you are going to go with a checkerboard, the premier is your best bet. Either one gives you a watertight fit, but the premier gives you square edges on a checkered pattern where the premium gives you a puzzle look --that is not seen in a solid color.

We offer considerable discounts for GJ members. Don't overlook the roll out flooring either. If you send me an email with your contact info, I would be happy to send FREE samples.

American Garage Floor
[email protected]

 

[JimVonBaden]

Yours looks great. If I was to choose vinyl tiles, it would be a commercial 1/8" thick "through color" tile like you typically see in grocery stores, etc. I have them in my office and they've held up very well though they do require periodic maintenance....only real problem has been where a leaking joint in a condensate drain damaged the tiles in the furnace room...that makes me wonder about the moisture from rain/snow of the daily driver as well as the moisture by the OH doors.

Dave

That is what you see in mine. Vinyl Composition Tile. It is 1/8" thick, color through. It is tough, and cuts with several scores and a snap. My 400sq ft garage cost me just under $400 to do, and took a day doing it alone.

Jim

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks guys, see I am learning stuff!

- sounds like a 2 part epoxy is the way to go if I go with coating as prep isn't significantly different.

BUT

- grinding or blasting the slab just isn't going to happen so I'm leaning towards tile; either vinyl or porcelain. I'm thinking if I end the flooring just inside the OH door, that should eliminate most of the moisture concerns.

I will keep an open mind and look at self adhesive as well as porcelain.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Garage Flooring]

That is what you see in mine. Vinyl Composition Tile. It is 1/8" thick, color through. It is tough, and cuts with several scores and a snap. My 400sq ft garage cost me just under $400 to do, and took a day doing it alone.

Jim

Man a buck a square foot. Looks great!