Flooring/covering for rented space

[2245]

Renting the following space:
55' X 18'
Actual vehicle/workspace:
42' X 18'

Plan on doing maintenance work on personal used vehicles; fluid changes, tire rotation and other vehicle lubrication including any and all associated spills or undetected vehicle leaks.

I prefer the 'DIY' method.

Because the space is rented, I'm not interested spending a lot yet I do need a durable product.

CONCERNS:

-- Not damaging the owners floor due to leaks and spills; Would like to return the property in the same condition which I received it.
-- Easy clean-up of leaks and spills; gas, oil, ******, anti-freeze etc ... (see above item)
-- Coating to resist tire marks/tracks etc.
-- Coating/covering to resist moisture and/or road-salt.
-- Coating/covering to resist other cleaning and lubricating chemicals not mentioned above.

Would prefer something portable, should we decide to move in addition to being able to add-on to the protective flooring/covering. If portability is not an option, at a reasonable price for us, what is suggested/recommended. Keep in mind this space is rented, not trying to increase someone else's property value.

 

[thegarageguy]

Try race deck, swiss trax, nordic, flexi tile, tuff seal, etc, etc, blt roll out matts, **** there are tons of options. Google it!

 

[2245]

Try race deck, swiss trax, nordic, flexi tile, tuff seal, etc, etc, blt roll out matts, **** there are tons of options. Google it!

Garageguy lets be friends. I obviously want to hear from someone who has installed 'and' experienced such an option/product. Telling, suggesting or recommending that a registered member/person to leave the forum and google helps who? <-- rhetorical.

I will look into some of the items you stated above, however that will only prompt another question as to your experience with any of the items you suggested/recommended; otherwise it doesn't help my situation much.

I'm done with website hype.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

2245,

How long do you plan on renting the space? This will have a lot to do with the direction that is taken. The cheapest option for a short term (12 months or less) would be to simply use a concrete sealer. It will not have all of the properties that you are wanting as far as chemical resistance or tire marking but can be done "cheap" and recoated if required. If you are quick with spill cleanup, it might work but I would get some other opinions on it.

Tiles like Race Deck can be pulled up and taken elsewhere but depending upon the time that you have them, they can fade, the color might not be available when it comes time to move again, the tile layout might not work in your new space when transferred and (given the current economy) there are no guaranties the company will still be there when more tiles are needed.

Rubber mats are another option that are cheap but suffer from some of the same problems as the removable tile solution. Fluids can leak down between the joints and still stain the concrete underneath. If you can find larger mats that will cover a spill or if you are willing to move them for a cleanup, they might work.

A combination of a sealer and rubber runners for the tires to roll on combined with a "work area" matt that can be placed under the car where needed might be your best solution overall. Not much cash, keeps it clean and you can save the money to enhance your property values later on when building your dream garage.

If you are staying long term, I would still seal the concrete and use removable tiles. They would be considered “throw away tiles” and I would not count on using them later down the road. They would be considered part of the rent and then let the owner know that he would be welcome to them. I would avoid epoxy coatings unless you and the owner agree to the color and options (slip resistance additives, chips, base coats, clear coats, etc.).

 

[RaceDeck1]

GeorgiaHybrid - Just for the record, RaceDeck modular floors do not "fade" and are loaded with 15-year pkg outdoor UV stabilizers, so inside a garage, shop, store, etc, fading is the last issue you will have.

 

[thegarageguy]

Not being a **** but it just seemed you made up your mind with a mod floor already. Now all you have to figure out your budget. What are you willing to pay for? Do you want top notch, check out the ones I listed. If you want budget, check ebay. In the end, all mod floors get dirty easy and are hard to clean, especially in a real world working environment, regardless what anyone says here. Make sure you choose dark colors. Those pretty colors don't look very well after some real abuse.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Jorgen,

Your tiles ARE good (I have seen a few installs with it) but some others have had problems with fading and staining. The biggest problem with your product is that it is like Kleenex. I know that it is "facial tissue" but I just call it Kleenex. When I think floor tiles, I just think Race Deck. Sorry for the confusion....

The bright side of that is that you are the first that comes to mind....

 

[RaceDeck1]

GeorgiaHybrid

The cheap copy tiles is something we do worry about, not from a competitive standpoint, but for the exact reasons you mention, they give the entire modular flooring industry a bad rap.

There are a few companies that make modular floors in China, Taiwan, and Mexico, these are the worst of the bunch, who knows what they are made from? and then there are other brands who have random mold shops make a tile, with no consistency in materials, colors, and even sizing of tiles as the are made. There is a huge difference in the plastics and the quality, same goes for color and UV additives ( if they add any UV? ).

 

[2245]

Thank you 'all' for the participation in this thread/discussion. It has been most helpful.

If the modular flooring doesn't guard against spills between the seams and/or joints that could be a major concern should I store a vehicle, over time, with an undetected leak. I didn't want to do any treatment to the original flooring; I'll spare this forum the long winded details.

Floor coloring is the last item of concern; safety (slips/falls) is the first concern, cleanliness and maintenance thereof is the second concern etc.

I will continue to monitor this topic for further feedback.

Thank you all.

 

[Dave88LX]

You could always just throw a $5 drip pan sheet under the vehicle on top of the RaceDeck.
You know, one of those 2' x 3' or so flat pans.

Although, I have heard other people state that they have seen liquids stay on top of seams and not soak in. I would throw the drip sheet down in case.

 

[2245]

You could always just throw a $5 drip pan sheet under the vehicle on top of the RaceDeck.
You know, one of those 2' x 3' or so flat pans.

Although, I have heard other people state that they have seen liquids stay on top of seams and not soak in. I would throw the drip sheet down in case.

Drip pan/sheet will only cover a known drip/leak under the vehicle or source of the leak/drip, <-- correct me if that assumption is wrong.

The goal is to cover the entire work area, no matter if the vehicle is the source of the leak/drip, or not. Someone may spill something on to the floor; we want the original floor fully protected from such a spill, leak or drip, as well as easy cleaning of the not-so-permanent floor covering/protection.

E.G. a spill/leak, once discovered, can be quickly cleaned with an industrial size mop or even loads of news paper, thereafter, the protective flooring can be properly cleaned with third party non-toxic chemicals and/or soap and water without damaging the floor covering/protective layer such as the items which 'thegarageguy' suggested/recommended earlier in this discussion.

 

[RAYJAY]

go and get some rems of vinyl flooring ?

 

[Dave88LX]

Drip pan/sheet will only cover a known drip/leak under the vehicle or source of the leak/drip, <-- correct me if that assumption is wrong.

The goal is to cover the entire work area, no matter if the vehicle is the source of the leak/drip, or not. Someone may spill something on to the floor; we want the original floor fully protected from such a spill, leak or drip, as well as easy cleaning of the not-so-permanent floor covering/protection.

E.G. a spill/leak, once discovered, can be quickly cleaned with an industrial size mop or even loads of news paper, thereafter, the protective flooring can be properly cleaned with third party non-toxic chemicals and/or soap and water without damaging the floor covering/protective layer such as the items which 'thegarageguy' suggested/recommended earlier in this discussion.

I know. I should have been clearer. What I meant was put modular flooring down in the whole area to protect it, but then put the large drip sheet under the engine/trans, and another one under the rear end to catch the oily garbage that might drip.

 

[2245]

I know. I should have been clearer. What I meant was put modular flooring down in the whole area to protect it, but then put the large drip sheet under the engine/trans, and another one under the rear end to catch the oily garbage that might drip.

Hi Dave, I'd like to think we understood the above the first time you posted it. Perhaps it is me who is not being clear enough.

Lets look at this drip-sheet idea closer. Whichever flooring product I install, it needs to handle all of my listed concerns, including drips and leaks, without the need of anything else; with the exception of someone to detect the leak/spill and clean it up ASAP.

A/The drip pan can also be kicked or otherwise spilled. Agreed? The workspace, described above, is not a home type setting, meaning; I'm not looking for a shinny and or hi-gloss floor. I do want the work area clean using a color of which any foreign object or substance will be noticed by the human eye without delay. This is not a show-room but a mini/personal maintenance area.

I hope this helps make things clearer from my end. Your continued participation is most welcome.

 

[Dave88LX]

I guess I had assumed you were going to have a vehicle parked/stored in here. I generally just toss a drip pan under them. I don't know how you're going to kick/spill a flat drip-sheet that is beneath a parked vehicle, but you might be doing some crazy things in there. Then again, that was assuming you were storing a vehicle in there.

 

[2245]

I guess I had assumed you were going to have a vehicle parked/stored in here. I generally just toss a drip pan under them. I don't know how you're going to kick/spill a flat drip-sheet that is beneath a parked vehicle, but you might be doing some crazy things in there. Then again, that was assuming you were storing a vehicle in there.

Dave: You were partially correct in that assumption, however, the stored vehicle is a temporary thing. I have 2-vehicles used for work. When one (1) is not road worthy or beyond its maintenance milage, I park it grab the other and keep on rolling until I have time to focus on it; whether is be repair or cleaning.

 

[2245]

The choice of flooring is narrowed to either RaceDeck and/or G-Floor. I would like to hear first hand from users of the above named products with respects to the following concerns:

SAFETY:
-- Using common-sense, how slip-resistant is your installed RaceDeck/G-Floor when 'damp'?
Obviously any floor will be slippery when 'wet'. A 'damp' condition, as with condensation or, when we think we've cleaned an spill/soiled area but, some residue is left could be of a concern especially with clear liquid spills such as glue.

SEEPING -- via the seams or directly through the product to the underlying original floor:

No matter RaceDeck or G-Floor have you experienced liquids of any viscosity seep/traverse between the joints/seams of joining tiles or joining mats; respectively and/or through the product itself; puddle on top soaks through to the bottom.

CHEMICAL RESISTANT:

In addition to your regular run-of-the-mill spills that occur within a home auto-mechanics shop, certain cleaning chemicals are used. How resistant to these harsh cleaning chemicals are RaceDeck and/or G-Floor? For example: spilling a certain type of glue on a vinyl product may just eat a hole in said flooring.

When replying to this portion of the GarageJournal\Flooring thread, please identify the product of which you're providing the feedback. I too will provide this forum/thread with the product chosen and why.

Above I stated I was looking for user feedback of both RaceDeck and G-Floor. It was not my intention to lockout manufacturer or installer input/feedback, I am interested. It has been my experience that manufacture testing of its product, while being able to take testing to an extreme, said extreme is not real world usage, such as someone having a pet in the same shop area with an open container after closing time. Said pet, animal or rodent knocks over container.

Spill is not discovered for days.

 

[sammerdog]

Snap together tiles will leak eventually. Period. No matter what some sales rep tells you. If protecting the current floor is your number 1 primary concern, then buy some 20x30 blue tarps, lay them out and when they tear, get too bad, get thread barren... replace them accordingly. Stretch the corners accordingly and your trip hazard will be minimized drastically.

 

[35mastr]

This sounds like you will have this shop for some time.More than a year I would think.

Why not just sit down with the owner and have a chat with him that concerns the floor.

Pick out a color that you both can deal with and see if he would split the costs with you on a 100% solids epoxy.

I have worked with property owners in the situation that you are in.I would do all the work myself just to keep my rent down.

Never had a rent increase in all the years that I did this.They like to have tenants that will care for there property.

With that said.It will be unlikley that your rent will ever go up if you take care of it like it was your own

That is what i would do.Then both of you would be happy.

 

[AlphaGarage]

35mastr has the answer, work with landlord. It's in their interest to keep a happy tenant and also improve the space should tenant vacate.

May be able to work out a deal where you can get a monthly credit for the remainder of your lease to amortize the cost of the project. Have a contingency built in to freshen up the floor upon vacancy, should just need to quick recoat of the clear coat layer only to have it looking like new.

Point out to landlord that a new looking epoxied floor is a major selling feature when it's time to sign up new tenant.

Avoid that sort of arrangement if it's going to be a cheap coating, getting it back into shape on move-out would kill the deal.

 

[jtillery]

2245 - To be honest I am scratching my head with your responses/questions. There are 1875 threads and over 17,000 posts on this forum alone discussing the various garage floor options and specific feedback from people using them in "real world" environments. If you take the time to read some of them it should be clear what is the best product for you. After doing at least 20-30 hours of research I decided on RaceDeck for 3200 sq ft shop.

Out of curiosity, why are you so interested in protecting the floor? I understand treating rented stuff as your own, since that is what I do, but normal wear and tear is to be expected. I am not saying get careless, but if you have a couple stains on the concrete, the landlord will not have any recourse against you, especially if they know what you are using the building for.

For your requirements a modular floor is your only viable option, but it will still not meet all your requirements. If you want to consider a permanent solution then you could do epoxy, however I personally would be concerned about the epoxy installation failling, that would create more of a mess than leaving it unprotected. RaceDeck is one of the best (if not the best) in the business. With their tile your only concern should be liquids seeping through the tiles. The seams are very tight on the RaceDeck, but all tiles must have some gap. The hydrostatic tension is what keeps the liquid on the surface, but it will only do it for so long. If it goes undetected for awhile it will seep and cause damage to the floor.

Do you realize that a quality modular floor will cost at least $2,000-$3,000 for the size area you need to do? If you are going to a cheap modular floor you are likely just wasting your time and money.