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flooring for not so faint at heart

sierradmax

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2005
Messages
461
Location
Rhode Island
I have a rather large garage with a floor coverage of 36x30. I poured the concrete floor myself in the middle of a hot summer day and she set up on me pretty quickly. Needless to say, my floor looks no where near any of the floors I have seen on this forum and its not very "broomable". Furthermore, from time to time, I do some fabricating....Welding, cutting steel, jacking up cars etc. So my question is, what would be the best flooring situation for me?
 
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REFLEXX

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Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
913
Location
Riverside, CA
Quit jacking, welding and cutting! Roll out a nice rug and make it a living room! :lol:


Seriously. I'm about to decide myself. I'm leaning toward www.epoxy-coat.com or www.u-coat-it.com products. OR another industrial 100% solids, non-water based, highly volatile, dangerous-fumed epoxy.

The good stuff is always the bad stuff!

Nothing will stand up to weld splatter or big chunks of plasma drool. But someone hear said that the U-coat-it stuff did well. Just take precautions, throw down a $20 Harbor Freight welding blanket!

REFLEXX :thumbup:
 

krooser

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Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
www.concrete-floor-coatings.com If you want your floor to be smooth and tuff, you'll have to use 100% epoxy AND quartz chips imbedded into the final coat. This will hold up to ANYTHING! Harvey@Durall will tell you that it's beyond the average guy to install...it's not EZ...but it can be done. Not cheap...but it's the answer...
 

Luckydevil

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Joined
Jan 1, 2005
Messages
1,469
Location
Tampa
I sent them a price quote request, I'm curious how much that Durapoxy runs per foot. Looks like top notch stuff.
 
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lip277

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Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Messages
51
Location
Seattle
If it is the surface texture of your floor that is not what you wanted it to be - I'd consider polishing it. Take a look HERE for some basics. For a garage, you don't need to go 'all the way' I'd imagine. I know of some auto repair shops that have gone this route in lieu of the epoxy coatings and the like.

Just a thought....
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
krooser said:
www.concrete-floor-coatings.com If you want your floor to be smooth and tuff, you'll have to use 100% epoxy AND quartz chips imbedded into the final coat. This will hold up to ANYTHING! Harvey@Durall will tell you that it's beyond the average guy to install...it's not EZ...but it can be done. Not cheap...but it's the answer...

The 40% solids stuff was $49.00/gallon...Durapoxy is SUPPOSED to be three times the price...dunno...I would have used Durall products but it was just easier to deal locally once I found I could buy it near home...
 

rustech

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2005
Messages
7
Location
California
Float the floor

If I understand correctly...You will have to float the floor with a Moppe (I forget the spelling) patch material. It is a thin polymer based cement that will smooth out all the large imperfections in a mispoured slab. You mix it up in a couple five gallon buckets, pour it out, it'll run like water, and leave a very level and smooth surface. This will leave you in a proper condition for the epoxy covering. Sanding and polishing will only leave you with a wavy floor. Good luck.
 

SteveL

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
760
Location
St. Louis, MO
Be careful of any of the self leveling materials as your floor, if built to code, has to have a pretty serious slope to it and the leveling material will just run out the door on to the driveway. I have a freind that tried that once!!!!! :lol_hitti

There are floor patch products that can be troweled on or you could rent a large floor grinder to smooth it out, but that would be almost as much work as it was to pour it! I would probably go with a 100% solids coating like the Epoxy-Coat and plan on a couple of coats. That should get rid of a lot of the imperfections but not all of them.

Keep us posted on you progress!
 
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