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Fluid Film competitors?

kidder

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Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
140
Location
PA
I recall someone posting on here about some Fluid Film competitor products. I think some mentioned a product that was more wax based and as a result lasted longer for rust prevention. Anyone recall what it was called?

Thank you in advance.
 
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pma1123

New member
Joined
Jun 5, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Watertown, WI
Applied 2 gallons of Woolwax this past fall on 3 vehicles, and happy to report it appears as-applied on everything but the lower control arms and low hanging suspension parts after a WI winter.
 

Hilltopmasonry

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Joined
Oct 12, 2015
Messages
2,167
There is also daubert nox-rust

I prefer that because it doesn’t stay gooey, it dries to a firm flexible coating but it doesn’t dry out...It is what Chevy uses on all of their heavy duty truck frames
 

d.mcfarland

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Jun 18, 2012
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6,566
Location
Western PA
Amsoil metal protector is almost like a paint that dries. I'd say its very durable, but does not creep as well as fluid film or krown.
 

shedfullatools

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Apr 10, 2016
Messages
834
Location
Nova Scotia
I used 7 Gallons of Proform Amber on my new truck in January. Its only $120 for a 5 gallon bucket and I found it excellent. I've used Fluid Film and the green rattle cans of Rust Check in the past and like this stuff much better.
 

mikegt4

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Joined
Sep 12, 2005
Messages
3,265
Location
sw ohio
I used Fluid Film for a couple of years, wasn't happy with the smell and it dripped off for a couple of weeks until it firmed up. It did the job of protecting against the salt here in the rust belt. 2 years ago I tried Woolwax and like it better, it's a bit thicker and doesn't drip off at all. Better yet it doesn't smell. I bought the "pro" gun and some extensions, everything worked great. I warm the Woolwax up before use (hot shower temp) so that it sprays better.
 
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Denwood

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Sep 22, 2014
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Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
I've posted a fair bit about corrosion management and long term tests and have tested quite a few different solutions. Rust Check, Krown and Fluid Film will wash off in an hour or less of heavy rain/driving so I no longer use them on vehicles.

The best I've found for longevity is Mike Sander's Grease, but you need to apply at 100-120 C (over 225 F), which is a PITA. My favourite now is Noxudol 300 and 700, which is a solvent free wax type application (never hardens) which actually contains a number of chemicals that react with rust. It's what Toyota, Izuzu and Mitsubishi have used in their frame recalls for about 10 years. It's about $20 a liter, and only needs annual touch ups. The 300 product is black, and designed for exposed chassis. The 700 is clear, for inner panels and non-exposed areas. Zero smell, stays on, and is one of only two products I've found that actively manages rust with added chemicals. It's easy to get in the US directly from Noxudol USA, not so easy here in Canada.

Noxudol 300/700 sets up in a day or two and does not drip after that. Noxudol "won" this three year long term test by Classics Monthly: https://www.auson.se/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf

From one of my posts on Noxudol:
A bit of research on the product yields this: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2011120646A1?cl=en

According to one embodiment, a composition containing sulfonic acids, petroleum, overbased calcium salts in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight; fatty acids, tall-oil, polymers with isophthalic acid, pentaerythritol and tall-oil in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight; paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes in an amount of less than 10%; base oil, distillates (petroleum), solvent- refined heavy paraffinic materials in an amount of 40 to 60% by weight, each percentage being based on the total weight of the wax component, may be used. This material is available as the commercial product Noxudol 700 from Auson AB, Kungsbacka, Sweden. This material is of waxy appearance and includes a liquid paraffin component.

A bit more research:
Sulphonic acids - rust cleaner
overbased calcium salts - oil additive to prevent rust
pentaerythritol - referenced in several corrosion inhibition papers.
polymers with isophthalic acid - referenced in corrosion resistance material
tall oils - used as a base for corrosion inhibitor products


We're at year 2 for our Highlander and the Noxudol 300 is holding up extremely well. Only very minor touch ups are needed once a year. Our winters feature salt, sand, and temps to -35 C.
 
Last edited:

nafterclifen

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Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
525
Location
Poconos, PA
My favourite now is Noxudol 300 and 700, which is a solvent free wax type application (never hardens) which actually contains a number of chemicals that react with rust. It's what Toyota, Izuzu and Mitsubishi have used in their frame recalls for about 10 years.

I can confirm, Toyota was indeed using Noxudol 300s on Tacoma frames if they weren't replacing them. As per their documentation...

1. The temperature of the frame affects the drying
time.
2. Please ask the customer to avoid touching the
external surfaces of the frame as the surface may
remain tacky to the touch for a period of time.
3. Advise the customer not to wash their vehicle’s
under carriage for approx. 72 hours after
pickup. This will provide ample time for the
CRC to cure.
4. The customer may also notice a petroleum product
based odor for a few days. The customer may wish
to park the vehicle outside during this time.
5. Inform the customer that a hang tag for post CRC
application care will be on the rear-view mirror for
their reference.
 

Denwood

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Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
4,184
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
They (Noxudol) also advises in a perfect world to treat high chassis exposure areas with 700 first as it has a higher creep rate. Then after a few days, cover with 300. It's not quite as simple as the yearly application stuff (which won't survive high exposure chassis areas), but worth the extra trouble as you're not doing it yearly.
 

thool

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Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
5,306
Location
Rochester, NY
Big fan of Woolwax. Just applied it to my wife's car yesterday, which is achievable in my garage with a floor jack and jack stands. I apply it to both bare metal and rusted metal. I also undercoated my truck last fall and it held up well over a salty NY winter, with it looking more matte and becoming like a paste, but still flowable to some degree.

Messy job though!
 

Jeepster04

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
3,097
Used fluid film for years and it seemed to stop all rust from spreading, but I applied it yearly. Switched to wool wax and it seems to work just as good. Doesnt smell and its thicker.... Not complicated, not overly $$, and I can easily buy it in bulk. I buy the cans and hose to spray inside the doors, n such.

Just wish I wouldve known about it and used it 20 years ago... My vehicles would be in much better shape.
 

Bretny

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Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
3,918
Location
Dutchess county NY
CRC brand rust inhibitor got prety good reviews and tests on the reading that I have been doing. I like that it's a spray can as after the initial coating I can touch up areas while I'm changing the oil or rotating the tires. Ease of use for me means it's more likely to actualy get done.
 

flan

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Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Messages
427
Great thread, in salt country vehicles rust out before mechanically reaching their end of life. Short of parking them for the winter These products are the best defense.
 

mikegt4

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Sep 12, 2005
Messages
3,265
Location
sw ohio
I found that WoolWax makes a pretty good cutting fluid for my mill. My shop is in the basement so I can't use traditional machine shop cutting fluids due to the smell permeating throughout the house with the obvious repercussions. I dab it on with an acid brush.

 
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