fluid film ya or ney?

[Denwood]

Here are a few pics of both the Mike Sander's grease (which is a good product, but a pain to apply) using a cavity gun wrapped in heat tape. This is a nice gun.

This is the cavity gun above, but not hidden by the heat tape...I really like this one has it has both air volume and material volume controls. It also comes with a really nice compact tip (shown below the gun product image) which does a really nice job of atomising Noxudol. I find it applies much better with less waste.

I've also purchased a variety of long strait wands (great for truck fenders, doors etc), and sprays tips on flexible 3 ft hoses. Both of the guns pictured use the same quick release system. Best place to source is from a local paint shop that sells to the auto sector.

You could also just use a shutz gun (FF tool?) but you won't have as fine control of application thickness..you'll use more product.

I managed to find the video I used to sell the 1990 Westfalia. It's a few minutes long but shows how nice the van was just before I sold it. Rust prevention is pretty essential for these old rides in the salt belt. It's also a sneak peak of the disaster my shop was before garagejournal made me fix it. Ha.

 

[Smither]

I currently have been using Fluid Film for years and more recently Wool Wax which has worked fantastic. I found some surface rust In the upper tailgate of my MY12 L322 Rover (a common rust area). It’s currently filled with Fluid Film and Wool Wax the only Issue is that in the summer it gets so hot it drips out. Summers are 90-100 F here.

I want to try to Noxudol 700 seeing it has ingredients to neutralize the rust and it doesn’t actually harden, I can try to use compressed air from my shop to blow the fluid film out, do you think Noxudol will work over rust and slow it down/stop it?

My other concern is the fact Fluid film was in the panel and the opening to the panel is too small for me to get my Hand in there so blowing it out with compressed air is my only method without getting water in that area/cavity which is counter productive. Would it have an issue bonding if there was fluid film in there prior?

 

[nadogail]

5 Pages of posts about Fluid Film, I am sure that I am not the only one who likes it.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

I call it “Sheep Snot” I actually LIKE the Smell, my wife; not so much!
I use it on the Tractor to keep rust at bay!

 

[Denwood]

I've got some of the Fluid Film on hand (for coating the snowblower in the spring) but I'm still using and recommending the Noxudol 300/700 system as my goto on anything seeing actual road salt and sand as it does not wash off.

I completed a full application on our 2018 LEAF EV, pulling all the fender liners and underbody aero panels etc. I had the "luxury" of keeping the car on the hoist for about 5 days to let the underbody chassis wax set up a bit.

Corrosion Control - Rust Proofing a 2018 Nissan LEAF SL

On the agenda is a the winter to summer tire swap, final drive oil change (no other oil in an EV!), brake service, corrosion management, and trailer hitch install. This is the first hoist for the new to me 2018 LEAF SL, shown here with some rather pedestrian studded winter rims and tires/TPMS...

mynissanleaf.com

The Toyota highlander treatment of Noxudol 300 (black, thicker than the 700) has only required small spot reapplications over 4 years now and counting after "surviving" 4 snow/salt/sand winters. We see about five months of winter, temps below -35C, and a lot of sand/salt on the roads. I think I've used an extra 1-2 litres of product over the 4 years to apply to areas directly behind the wheels which get sand blasted pretty much over a winter.

 

[BmwTechZiggy]

I used to use it 2x a year on my jeep wrangler. owned it for around 4 years in the rust belt and saw no rust build up. bought with 65 miles on it and sold with 35k ish smells awful but worth it imo

 

[finn]

Another eight year old thread.

 

[Denwood]

Like (some) wine, it gets better with age

 

[nadogail]

Mark me down as another fan of Fluid Film

 

[Bad Eye Bill]

Another eight year old thread.

Yep.

I hadn't seen it before today though. That makes it new to me.

 

[vpd66]

Another eight year old thread.

What is wrong with a follow up on an 8 year old thread??? I appreciate the update on how his treatment is holding up!

 

[finn]

What is wrong with a follow up on an 8 year old thread??? I appreciate the update on how his treatment is holding up!

Maybe start a new thread and include newer products. I do use Fluid film, but it seems that the distributors are dropping it and now selling Waxwool, or something like that.
I have no real interest in eight year old threads, but these zombies keep turning up.

 

[Bad Eye Bill]

Maybe start a new thread and include newer products. I do use Fluid film, but it seems that the distributors are dropping it and now selling Waxwool, or something like that.
I have no real interest in eight year old threads, but these zombies keep turning up.

Don't open them.

 

[Denwood]

I do appreciate reviving older threads, particularly with respect to long term updates. There are precious few folks doing great work on actual real world corrosion testing (at least outside of industry), so I for one find the long term updates more valuable than anything else. With the price of vehicles these days, if you're planning on keeping one long term in winter/salt areas, you need to apply the right product.

Woolwax is a heavier body version of Fluid Film, so it will have less creep, but be harder to wash off. Regardless, the rubber seal issue with lanolin based products makes them a non starter for automotive in my book. I do have FF, but use it for machinery only during storage.

 

[rlmartinson]

I also like the older threads, I think it gives background and maybe a little credibility.

Denwood, thanks for all the info, I will be looking for Noxudol this fall before rust season starts!

Six months ago, I tried a oil undercoating for the first time and settled on a "local" option, NH Oil Undercoating. It manufactured here in New Hampshire and I had a small local shop apply it. He used to apply Fluid Film but has switched to NH Oil. I had done some research on Woolwax and Fluid Film and this seemed similar enough to try. Its better than nothing, right?

NH Oil Undercoating

Our NH Oil undercoating kit offers powerful corrosion protection for all metals and lubrication for moving parts. Check out our undercoating services here.

nhoilundercoating.com

I like it so far, but there really isn't a great way to test the effectiveness over the sort term.

I do appreciate reviving older threads, particularly with respect to long term updates. There are precious few folks doing great work on actual real world corrosion testing (at least outside of industry), so I for one find the long term updates more valuable than anything else. With the price of vehicles these days, if you're planning on keeping one long term in winter/salt areas, you need to apply the right product.

Woolwax is a heavier body version of Fluid Film, so it will have less creep, but be harder to wash off. Regardless, the rubber seal issue with lanolin based products makes them a non starter for automotive in my book. I do have FF, but use it for machinery only during storage.

 

[Denwood]

There are three major factors that I've found true with CPC applications:

1. Application thoroughness
2. Correct application frequency.
3. Under-chassis wash off.

Many folks use Krown or Rust-Check here which are never applied thoroughly and wash off easily. I've had to return to the application centre(s) every time, so I gave up going and bought cavity gun/tools to do it myself. That said, if you do this yearly, it's still better than nothing by a mile. These products wash off the chassis after just a few hours of wet driving, but they do stay in the panels. These companies "treat" your car in less than an hour, which is a dead giveaway that it's not being done thoroughly. They don't have time to clean and dry the chassis, drop spares, don't remove tail lights, etc. etc. and make no effort to access many hidden areas of a vehicle. I've checked a few other vehicles (like my brother's F150) after application of Rust Check and found large areas that were not touched at all, like under the bed.

This is why I only use wax based products now (thicker for the chassis, thinner for the panels) and only use products that I can verify have corrosion control chemicals (not just water displacement products). Doing the LEAF (removing all the fender liners, aero trays, tail lights etc. and actually running all the frame channels etc. etc. took a full day. It's always better to do this work in the late summer to allow cavity creep on hot days before winter sets in. Doing it on a wet and dirty car is a waste of time.

If you can find a local company with staff that actually care about doing it right, I'd always take that (with yearly inspections/applications) over a particular product. Areas behind the wheels/chassis are typically sand blasted with driving. I've seen nothing that can withstand that over time...these areas need to get looked at yearly even with the Noxudol 300 type product. That said, if you use a quality product, you don't need to apply much in your yearly inspections...just touch up obvious areas. Products like Noxudol 700 (in the panels) don't need yearly applications. That's about 40 years experience in a few paragraphs..ha

 

[Vwpower]

if you live in the rust belt you should absolutely fluid film your vehicle. My 1992 van. It works everyday.

 

[RPhil]

I appreciate the revival of this thread. I just recently had my shipment of Noxudol arrive and am eager to apply it to my Excursion.

 

[racecougar]

Long-time FF user here. I'll just add that I like the new black version of FF, as it ends up looking rather nice after an even application under the vehicle.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I need to get my 2021 Blazer done and due to analysis paralysis have not moved forward.

Leaning towards NHOU as they have a dealer/applier near me.

Old threads coming back to life are awesome - Got it scheduled for next Thursday.
See this thread rocks

 

[WAS Jr]

Ed wood, I know it’s an old thread, but where did you get that slick looking cavity gun from.
Thanks, Bill S

 

[WAS Jr]

Sorry, spellcheck got me again. That post above was for Denwood, not Ed Wood, maker of bad but entertaining movies.
Bill S

 

[Denwood]

Sorry, spellcheck got me again. That post above was for Denwood, not Ed Wood, maker of bad but entertaining movies.
Bill S

The cavity gun came for a local paint shop, but the manufacturer is here:

RUST PROOFING GUN (125 psi) - pro-teksprayequipment.com

Pro-Tek was formed from humble beginnings in 1982 in Mirabel, Québec. Quality tools and paint guns at very attractive prices, good service and prompt delivery were keys to growth of Pro-Tek products. Pro-Tek is entering our second 25 years as specialist in the paint and body shop equipment...

www.pro-teksprayequipment.com

This gun is very nice with the adjustable air control so you can dial it in for thicker materials. It works great for anything I've tried, Noxudol 300/700, Rust Check, Fluid Film, etc. You should warm up thicker materials for spraying which again I've done with great success. The Mike Sander's grease I've sprayed does require application at 80C, (hot) so I modded a gun cup with heat tape to do this. The Noxudol is way, way easier to use (and has the corrosion reaction chemicals) so it's pretty much all I use now.

I have interchangeable wands etc. (which you need for hidden areas, chassis rails etc) but this short tip is one I use the most under the car as it lays on just the right amount of material and has low over spray as well. I accidentally "ejected" this tip into a rear suspension beam, but was happy to be able more from Protek as they do list that tip separately. They are the only company I could find that has this tip..but many of the other manufacture attachments do work on the quick release system.

 

[Jazz1]

I use TONY from Napa,,its same as Fluid Film and priced $120 for 5 gallon pail.
I had used a oil based product once….problem was oil products flammable,,,ended up with fire between body panels while welding….

 

[andyvh1959]

Eight year old thread, but lets keep it going. I'm curious about applying Krown, Fluid Film or similar products into the boxed frame section of my Dakota pickup. Dakotas are known for frame failures in the area behind the forward rear spring hangers. So far my 2001 Dakota has survived the ravages of Wisconsin winters,.....but. The area of the frame from the front bumper to behind the cab is boxed, with many openings down the rails. I'll be stripping the Dakota down to the frame rails to prep it as the chassis going under my 56 Dodge pickup daily driver. So once fhe chassis is ready for the 56 can and box, I'll spray Krown or FF inside the boxed section of the frame as well as the exposed surfaces.

 

[racecougar]

Eight year old thread, but lets keep it going. I'm curious about applying Krown, Fluid Film or similar products into the boxed frame section of my Dakota pickup. Dakotas are known for frame failures in the area behind the forward rear spring hangers. So far my 2001 Dakota has survived the ravages of Wisconsin winters,.....but. The area of the frame from the front bumper to behind the cab is boxed, with many openings down the rails. I'll be stripping the Dakota down to the frame rails to prep it as the chassis going under my 56 Dodge pickup daily driver. So once fhe chassis is ready for the 56 can and box, I'll spray Krown or FF inside the boxed section of the frame as well as the exposed surfaces.

What do you want to know?

 

[andyvh1959]

I guess, methods and results for effectively getting FF or Krown like products into the inner sections of a boxed frame like on the Dakota. Thinking of a long wand like device with a fan nozzle at the end. Insert the wand in and apply the spray as the wand is drawn out of the frame areas.

 

[racecougar]

Yes. If you're using FF aerosol cans, buy the extension wand. If you're using a Shutz gun (which I recommend), many come with extension wands for this purpose.