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Fluid needed for hydraulic fluid reservoir

PT Doc

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I just bought a Quick Jack 5000 unit from Costco online. It should be coming next week. The Quick Jack hydraulic lift doesn’t come with the needed fluid because it would a hazmat thing and they would end up charging quite a bit more. No biggie. They forwarded some info on the unit and there are numerous fluids that can be used. I attached a photo of the email that they gal at Quick Jack forwarded.

What would you use if you had access to all of the fluids listed? Are any better fro this application. I live in the Denver area and my garage does not get below 50 degrees and that is where the Quick Jack will Live.

Thank you in advance for the suggestions.
 

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PT Doc

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The fluids are ISO 32, ISO 46, ISO 68 hydraulic fluid, approved automatic transmission fluids like Dexron III, Dexron VI, Mercon V, Mercon LV or any multi vehicle synthetic ATF.
 

mishkaya

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I posted a reply to your question in the other thread, but I guess I will post it here as well:
If I had the choice, I would use synthetic ISO-32 as it is 10W and will work even in bitter cold temps. My garage is not heated...
Since my options were more limited, I used synthetic ATF, which I had on hand.
 
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PT Doc

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Thanks for the info. I guess I’m wondering why there are so many appropriate fluids.
 

mishkaya

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I would assume it's just that the pump is not limited as it only runs maybe a minute at a time. They basically give the option of any weight hydraulic oil or any ATF.
 

paulsomlo

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You had a typo in the original post regarding the temp in the garage, but if we're talking unheated, I would say go with plain jane ATF, as I think it may even be less viscous than 10w oil. I had problems with my floor jack until I drained the hydraulic fluid and replaced it with ATF.
 

seanb02

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It really doesn't matter for a simple hydraulic ram. The reason there are so many different fluid types is due to the clutch materials in transmissions, as well as different high pressure applications where the heat created causes breakdown of fluid, as well as there being some designed for atmospheric conditions where moister may be introduced to the system versus some that are in entirely sealed environments.

The fluid type matters in those applications because they can be very complex systems and different additives react differently to the materials in the unit. In a jack there is only the requirement of not eating through the o-rings as any ATF or hydraulic fluid is plenty capable of holding the pressure and working well in a sealed environment.
 
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PT Doc

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Decided on ISO 30 hydraulic fluid. That is the equivalent of 10w. This is a hydraulic pump and my garage does not get below 50 and if it did, I wouldn’t want to be out there anyway. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

bperrybap

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It really doesn't matter for a simple hydraulic ram. The reason ... there is only the requirement of not eating through the o-rings ....
So do you know of any of the fluids that have additives that eat up the orings which should be avoided?
 
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bperrybap

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Synthetic ATF is compatible with orings, but I don't think it's compatible with polyurethane seals.

So what types of seals are used on the QuickJack? In the pistons, pump, quick connects, and on the seals/gaskets used for the pump motor and reservoir?

And then there are fully synthetic ATFs like Vavoline MaxLife that have cleaners and seal conditioners in them. Do the additives have any issues over the long term like causing seal damage or leaks?
Some other manufacturers prohibit the use of ATF in their lifts, so it seemed odd that Benpak allowed it.

Those are my concerns.

--- bill
 

sweet victory

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I have the Danmar M6. I picked up a 5 gallon bucket of STP AW-32 hydraulic fluid at autozone.

Edit: Just realized you wrote quick jack and not maxjaxx. Disregard my post - totally different product..
 
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matt_i

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I would get ATF simply because you can buy it in a quart and probably any store. True AW- style hydraulic fluid is probably minimum 1 gallon with 5 gallons being more common. Leaving 4.9 gallons for future projects....

If the jack has nitrile (Buna-N) seals then its going to be compatible with any kind of hydraulic oil. The only other real choice for o-rings would be EPDM (as in water-service) but that would fall apart in a matter of a week or two...
 

bperrybap

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O-rings come in many different materials. So you have to know the material yours are made of to get a good answer.
Exactly. That is my point. Unless QuickJack supplies the information, there is no way to know since materials can vary so much. And it isn't just the orings, it is the seals used on the pump and reservoir. They also seem to constantly change the design of the power units so it could vary depending on which specific power unit you have.
BTW, I have an email in to Tech Support about this and will report back when I get a response from them. I already talked with them on the phone about this a few days ago but sent them some additional very specific questions on this very subject.

--- bill
 

mishkaya

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Is everyone happy with their QuickJack?

I have a BL-7000SLX purchased in the fall of 2016. I have been very pleased with it. I would say it gets used once a week at the very least. The time savings for me has been tremendous. :thumbup:
Sorry to derail the thread...
 

mishkaya

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mishkaya, what fluid did you use and have you had any leaks?

I used what I had on hand at the time which is Mobil1 Dexron III synthetic. Have had no leaks at all to date. Only issue I had was a valve leak on one of the compressed air cylinders, which I fixed.
 

sreeb

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"Miles Hytex ISO 32 Anti Wear Hydraulic Fluid 5 Gallon Pail"

Under $50 delivered from Amazon.
 

TomF

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I got my QuickJack BL-5000SLX (110V) from Costco a week ago. I ordered it on a Sunday, went to the local O'Reilly's on Monday and picked up 3 qts of their name brand ATF which met the QuickJack specs for $3.99/qt. The QuickJack arrived on Tuesday at 10:00 AM and I had one of my cars up on it that afternoon to do finish some front end work. No missing parts, no problems with the assembly and testing, no leaks on the power unit or hoses.

It was really convenient to get the car up that far to work on with a creeper. I have some more work to do with another car but it's been raining pretty heavily most of the time since then besides the fact that it's been in the low-mid 50s (sorry!).
 

TomF

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I should have also mentioned: I watched the "Official First Time Setup Video" on the QuickJack website. In it, the installer dumps 2 quarts of ATF into the tank and then pours in another 1/2 quart. My power unit has the round metal tank and it didn't take the full second quart and started backing up in the funnel. I had to grab a bunch of shop towels and lost a couple of ounces of fluid. After cycling the unit I did have to pour in a few more ounces from the 3rd quart that I bought.

So be careful and watch the level when putting in the second quart.

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
 
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