Fluke 115 vs. Extech 505

[Wamsutta]

Comparing these two meters together, I noticed that the Fluke 115 has a separate setting for Volts DC and Volts AC. The Extech 505 has one setting that pulls double duty for both Volts DC and Volts AC.

Is it better to have the Volts DC and Volts AC separate?

 

[Brownsfan]

I would go fluke 115. But I'm going to throw a wrench in your plans. Check out the Klein MM2000. Can be had for $110 or less. Can be bought and warrantied at your local Home Depot. I recommend this meter a lot. Why? Because i bought as a temp solution after my fluke 73 broke until i could order a 115 or 117 fluke. After using it for a few days just decided to keep on using it. Cancelled my fluke order. Liked it so much I went out and bought the CL2000 clamp meter. These meters are a great bang for the buck. The screen is easy to see in all lightning and is bright.

 

[zkling]

Better? Not really just a convenience factor. Unless you select AC or DC via the range button after putting it on voltage it takes a little longer since it is on auto ranging to determine the current type then the voltage range, compared to just finding the voltage range of the predetermined current type.

 

[JDon99]

I would definitely go with the Fluke. At my previous job, they had bought some extech meters in an effort to save money...total POS and I wouldn't use it. My particular meter may or may not read voltage on a circuit-not a good thing when you are working with 480, or 120 for that matter.

 

[Buster21]

I really like my Fluke 115, after owning several brands it is now my go to meter. It is compact, has a large easy to read display and has all the functions one could want.

 

[kgorman]

Fluke

 

[Wamsutta]

How important is milliamps and microamps? The Fluke 115 doesn't have those functions.

 

[Hootbro]

How important is milliamps and microamps? The Fluke 115 doesn't have those functions.

Depends on your job. Fluke 115 series meters are geared towards industrial electricians working working from a main fuse panel to a component.

A component level electrical/electronics technician will have the occasional need for the mA and uA.

That being said, 99.9% of the time, either technician could get by with a Fluke 115 series meter

 

[mrborohachi]

Check out Amprobe also. Got mine from a local Electronics Warehouse. Separate V AC and DC and it had a temp probe. I had a display warranty issue sent the meter in alone and they sent me out a complete new meter package so I now have doubles of leads. Their customer service is superb.

 

[Carl B]

Working in a Garage - an auto garage - you would need/use milliamps / millivolts quite often trouble shooting auto electronics.

Of course for that - you don't need to spend Big Money on a meter. The one Harbor Freight gives away free at times - will do the necessary job more than 50% of the time.

FWIW,
Carl B.

 

[Miller6386]

Comparing these two meters together, I noticed that the Fluke 115 has a separate setting for Volts DC and Volts AC. The Extech 505 has one setting that pulls double duty for both Volts DC and Volts AC.

Is it better to have the Volts DC and Volts AC separate?

All depends on what you are using it for.... I have a 117 and 179... I like the no contact tester on the 117 a d also like the auto voltage. It's nice in some controls when you aren't sure if it's ac or DC power.... What will you be using it for?

Telecommunicated

 

[Wamsutta]

What will you be using it for?

I need to test the fuel tank pressure circuit. It's a three pin sensor comprising of a 5V reference pin, ground pin, and signal pin for sending voltage back to the PCM. The signal wire carries a variable voltage between 0.1 and 4.9 volts depending on what the pressure in the tank is. A low voltage signal equates to high fuel tank pressure. I need to back probe the signal wire at the sensor to see if it has communication with the PCM.

Do I need the milliamps and microamps function for automotive work?

 

[michaelrc51]

If it is automotive work than yes, it would be beneficial to have those functions.

I would have to say Fluke all the way. One thing to consider is the speed of the meter. When troubleshooting it is necessary to have a fast meter or you might miss what you are trying to see.

I use a fluke T10 for high voltage and quick stuff and then get out the fluke 289 when I am troubleshooting or need a more precise meter.

 

[RedneckWelder]

There are also other meter options besides the Extech, which I would not get personally.

This guy gives quite an exhaustive review of multimeters. Here's the links for the $100 range, and there are also links for the $50 range on the recommended video list. Check 'em out!

 

[JoeFin]

Honestly you could probably find a gently used Fluke 87 on Eboner for about the same money

And here is the rub on going with a Fluke 87. If your at home working on some product you've bought and it is not "Working as Advertised" so you have "Tech Support" on the phone - the moment you say you've made voltage/current measurements with any thing other then a Fluke 87, they immediately blame your meter and claim your measurements are wrong.

That's how much of a standard the Fluke 87 has become.

But I've used Extech products before. In fact I think I have an Extech Process Calibrator around here collecting dust. You can bump them against a freshly certified calibrated fluke and achieve the same results - only problem being should you have to call Tech Support

 

[Carl B]

Do I need the milliamps and microamps function for automotive work?

Not usually - milliamps is about as small as you need for automotive work. Most digital readouts on meters will get you down to 1/10 or 1/100 of an amp. For really small current flows in an auto - you'll see a few hundred milliamps.
1 amp = 1000 milliamps
1 amp = 1,000,000 microamps



FWIW,
Carl B.

 

[scotte]

fluke 115 i have 2 of them and use them for automotive testing ( i own a repair garage)

the 115 will read plenty low enough on the amp section for automotive amp draw testing

if you look at the other meter in the picture above you will see the separate connection for ma/ua is fused by a 400ma fuse

in most automotive draw testing you would blow that fuse the moment you hooked the meter up to test

as you normally get a 2-4 amp initial draw on hooking up thru the meter as the modules wake up and then they will slowly go to sleep

also as far as testing a 3 wire 5v fuel tank pressure sensor you can use a meter but i find a more effective initial test is jumpering the signal pin to ground and then the 5v supply wire (with the sensor disconnected while watching the sensor pid on the scan tool

 

[Adam.C]

I have a Chinese made fluke 15. That's worth a look before you buy some other Chinese made meter. Got good reviews.