I am thinking of getting a Fluke 376 clamp on multi meter to be used mostly for automotive type work. I really need a DC amp clamp. Would a 376 have the proper range that I would need (Starter amp draw to say a parasitic battery drain)? Someone told me they also make a multi meter like the 376that you can take the display off to do a remote test. Does anyone know what that Fuke is?
Fluke 376 for automotive work
- Thread starter johninct
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Guapo
Active member
Starter amp draw = OK
Parasitic amp draw = No Go
The Fluke 376 has a 0.1 A resolution, which is not good enough for parasitic draw because you'll be looking to measure <100mA.
I currently use a Fluke 87 and a low amp probe for most auto work, but then also a high current amp clamp for starter draw tests.
Maybe there is an all-in-one meter out there.
redwrench60
Well-known member
I use a similar Fluke clamp meter with 0.10A resolution to quickly see if it has a huge draw. If not then I actually connect a meter in the circuit and do a proper draw test. I identify many of the large draw problems that kill batteries overnight with a simple clamp meter.
1961MGA
Well-known member
I believe this has been covered before. My opinion, thatis a terrible automotive meter. I use one at workand it is quite large. The meter you are reffering to with the removable screen is the fluke 381. Have extra batteries as this one guzzles. You would be better off with a fluke 88 or a 87. You will mosttly be working in low voltage and amperage dc in automotive. How often are you really checking the current draw on a starter or alternator?
Get an accessory clamp for the 88 or 87....
Get an accessory clamp for the 88 or 87....
Guapo
Active member
Why not just do draw test with a meter that has the resolution to begin with. Wouldn't that save time?
I've always gone by an acceptable parasitic draws being <50mA. Of course that may depend on what the manufacturer says is acceptable after their turn-off wait times. I assume Fluke 376 would read 0.1A for anything between 50mA - 100mA? How about anything below 50mA?
Anyway, I use a cheap amp clamp type meter for starter draws since you don't need very accurate readings at those levels.
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bcradio
Well-known member
I have a Fluke 376 and love it for automotive work. As redwrench60 said, most of the time you can catch the parasitics with the .1 resolution plus you can do the starter current and any voltages you may need to check. Then on top of this, you can use it around the house to check any AC current you may want. That flexible current loop can be super handy.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Well I’m certainly not going to tell another tech how they should work but for me no it wouldn’t be faster and I’ll explain why. For me, draw tests are done often as a side note to other work like diagnosing multiple module low voltage codes or in addition to diagnosing what could be just a bad battery but I want to make sure there’s no other problems without getting too intrusive with the vehicle.
With a true draw test requiring disconnecting the battery and connecting the meter in the circuit using a bypass test switch to re establish current flow and let all the modules calm down and go to sleep the setup time can be lengthy. With the clamp meter I just clamp it to a battery cable, hit the min/max button and walk away to do something else. If there’s a draw worth investigating it’ll show up even with a 0.1A resolution. Most draws that are bad enough to cause problems are much greater that 100mA and daily driven vehicles won’t even be affected by draws less than that anyway.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Here’s a great case in point. First repair order I was dispatched on this morning was a little Chevy Equinox with a check engine light, LOF and a battery inspection. What the customer won’t tell you is that they’ve had to jump it off twice this week. They are afraid we’ll start adding diagnostic charges if they have an actual complaint with symptoms. So before I just chuck a battery in it due to a failed test (which it did) I simply stick my clamp meter on the + cable and move on to the LOF job while the modules go to sleep and the current draw settles down. When I’m done the meter indicated there’s nothing worth investigating further and it gets a fresh battery and I don’t get a recheck later for a draw I missed the first time it was in.
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txvwnut
Well-known member
I use an 88V with a clamp attachment. The 88V is made for the auto industry and would be better suited for a day to day meter.
MikeF2316
Well-known member
Although it seem like you've settled on one with a clamp, the one with the removable display (which I have and like for automotive) is the 233. I just thought the leads could be a little higher quality.