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flushing out ps fluid

kobra

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Feb 17, 2012
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Hello all, this weekend i'll be changing ps fluid. Ques. is what's the best way to flush out all the old ****? Use atf? or ps fluid with stop leak? or ps with conditioners? Truck has 160k mi and i don't have any idea when or if fluid has ever been changed. I figure, try this before changing out pump and lines and possibly steering gear. thank you -:beer: ken
 
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DoyleDee

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Get a turkey baster or a vacuum pump to remove as much fluid as you can, then put new fluid in. Go lock to lock several times (7-10 times or so) then **** it all out again..do the removing of fluid while the engine is off... Repeat at least 3 times and you should be good. You don't need to remove 100%, but doing it at least 3times will get you 90-95%. Just use normal ps fluid, no stop leak. If you have a leak-fix that (don't half *** it).
 

DoyleDee

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Changing out fluid can help (had a 14 yr old convertible.....and my info was from a forum of a bunch of owners) . Hey, its a few bucks.....it might buy you time. Same goes with any fluids of a car.....maintenence.....
 
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kobra

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Feb 17, 2012
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Well, the viscosity seems all but gone. System is not leaking, lines not swelling, etc. Just want to do the "save" method of the pump. It doesnt squeal or anything, just hoping it's more of a preventitive maint. action
 

Skin

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Plug off the inlet for the return in the reservoir, run the return line into a bucket. You need at least 2 people, 3 would be better (one pooring so that the reservoir doesnt run dry, one watching the return line to make sure fluid isnt spilling everywhere, and one in the vehicle moving the wheel lock to lock). You'll need 1-1.5 gallons to get it clear again.

I wouldnt bother dumping in any other fluid than what you're suppose to be using unless the rack is giving you issues.


160,000 and it's not giving you problems? Don't jack with it.

Thinking like this sort of defeats the purpose of preventative maintenance.
 
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bgott

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Thinking like this sort of defeats the purpose of preventative maintenance.

At 160,000 miles that preventative maintenance is coming a little late. You don't want to be stirring up **** that has settled and isn't causing any problems.
 
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mzbk2l

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Plug off the inlet for the return in the reservoir, run the return line into a bucket. You need at least 2 people, 3 would be better (one pooring so that the reservoir doesnt run dry, one watching the return line to make sure fluid isnt spilling everywhere, and one in the vehicle moving the wheel lock to lock). You'll need 1-1.5 gallons to get it clear again.

I wouldnt bother dumping in any other fluid than what you're suppose to be using unless the rack is giving you issues.
I agree with this method, but I typically do it alone. Clamp or tie the drain line to the bucket, leave the engine idling, and you should be able to stay on top of the fluid level if you stand outside the truck while you turn the steering wheel. Having a helper just makes it easier, as you can stand over the reservoir with a funnel and the fluid while someone else slowly cranks the wheel lock-to-lock.

Once you're getting clean new fluid out the return line into your bucket, shut the engine down, reconnect the line, and restart the engine to bleed the air out of the system.
 

volvo

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....
Whatever method you use ..DO NOT, let the pump run dry . My experience is that when flushing newer cars with rack type steering & bad thick metallic fluid will usually create additional problems ( chatter, shutter, binding,leaks) rather that help after flushing.Use proper good replacement fluid.
 

internetdude

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Aug 27, 2009
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If you don't or can't let the vehicle run, another option might be to crank the engine with the coil packs disconnected so the car won't actually fire. Crank 'er and let the old fluid out.

Honestly though the last time I changed PS fluid I just did the **** & refill method, did that a few times over a few days. If I did it again I would do it properly by disconnecting the return line, letting it drain while refilling. If your fluid is that old changing even half or more of the fluid will help.

Oh, and avoid stop leak, it's not even a bandaid solution.
 

ImportTuner

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Get a turkey baster or a vacuum pump to remove as much fluid as you can, then put new fluid in. Go lock to lock several times (7-10 times or so) then **** it all out again..do the removing of fluid while the engine is off... Repeat at least 3 times and you should be good. You don't need to remove 100%, but doing it at least 3times will get you 90-95%. Just use normal ps fluid, no stop leak.

+1 .. works for me ..
 

Skin

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At 160,000 miles that preventative maintenance is coming a little late. You don't want to be stirring up **** that has settled and isn't causing any problems.

the point is to remove the contaminants. If theres so much your rack fails after using the method i mentioned it was going to fail anyway. All you're doing is replacing old fluid with new and letting the system do what it always does. There isnt any aggressive flushing action to "stir **** up".

May as well tell someone never to change any fluids in their car if they've run them over the maintenance schedule.
 
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bgott

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May as well tell someone never to change any fluids in their car if they've run them over the maintenance schedule.

Is there any car out there that has a recommended interval for changing and flushing the power steering fluid?
 
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