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Flux core welder for automotive repairs?

Sanny81

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In the early stages of planning a project which I’ll be welding some patch panels to fix some rust issues. Material to be welded is 12-18 gauge steel. Can I get away with using a flux core welder? The areas being repaired won’t be visible outside the vehicle and won’t need to look perfect so I don’t mind if the welds aren’t pretty. This job would be done outside so I don’t know if that changes the type of welder I need to use.
 
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I'm only really familiar with hardwire and dual shield, but you can weld with flux core outside yes, I'd just be careful of burning through that thin gauge. I've welded some thin material with flux core, but nothing like that.
 

matthew

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Flux core does run hot, and you can also only get .030 or thicker wire. Thinner wire makes it easier to weld thinner material.

12-18 gauge is quite a bit thicker than a lot of automotive panels - you may be welding in replacement material that thick, but the panels you're welding to are likely to be thinner.

The flux core also requires some cleanup afterwards. If it doesn't need to be strong you will probably be able to get away with some tacks, but if you need a sold seam I think you'll find gas shielded to be considerably easier.
 

Kaizen

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I use 030 flux core on thicker metal like frames or floors. Never tried on a body panel as I’m pretty sure it will not only blow through it but heat it up too much and make a mess.
Might be able to do it if you make a flange and spot welds


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gamescastspencer

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Once you get some practice in it is not bad at all. This is a 79 Chevy bedside I made into a short bed side for a wall hanger all done with flux core. 0.30 wire. (Pictures were in progress and not finished welding) a986a38a6f236358369eff1b550c90d6.jpg63dd11e586ed64419066158ffa85bbc8.jpge17d444c068582e4858c69a93eec8af0.jpg

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Kaizen

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Once you get some practice in it is not bad at all. This is a 79 Chevy bedside I made into a short bed side for a wall hanger all done with flux core. 0.30 wire. (Pictures were in progress and not finished welding) a986a38a6f236358369eff1b550c90d6.jpg63dd11e586ed64419066158ffa85bbc8.jpge17d444c068582e4858c69a93eec8af0.jpg

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**** weld?


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dnschmidt

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It's very hard to do. You'll be blowing holes through panels more so than welding them. Anything over 1/16" is possible but anything under will be VERY DIFFICULT. 0.023 wire in a MIG (75/25) is the way to go. If you need to build a wind break do it.
 
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Sanny81

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Thanks for all the great replies, looks like flux core would be more challenging than I want.

Searched Craigslist real quick and saw someone selling a Lincoln Handy Mig for under $250, would this be a good machine for my needs?
 
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dogdog

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Yea thinner material you might wanted to gas mig instead of flux core... the thinnest wire for flux core is .030 it's still pretty hard to weld on thinner materials... not to mention body panels...
as far as the Lincoln Handy Mig, Not sure if that is what you wanted for $250 though. maybe $200 or a little less... new is only $350... I have the SP-135 and it is still under power sometimes when I weld 10 gauge stuff, and wanted to upgrade to the MM252 already...but I don't use it enough to justify for one..... and welds comes out ugly that I had to smooth out with a tig process... so... for that price, I would have check out the HF 220V one... again, I don't know about that model, but the one I have is pretty solid, just not enough power.
 

dogdog

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What type of welder will you be using? I tried to use a buddies HF wire welder and it was horrible.

was that the 220V model or the 110V $80 model or their Omni pro ones that people are waving about ?
 

Ign

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HH140 from TSC. Don't try flux, not worth it. I've also sworn off .030 flux, every time Ive tried it it bird nests horribly.

Get flux for more "structural" stuff - it gives the little 110V units a bit more punch as it burns hot. Run .035 there
 

Kaizen

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Thanks for all the great replies, looks like flux core would be more challenging than I want.

Searched Craigslist real quick and saw someone selling a Lincoln Handy Mig for under $250, would this be a good machine for my needs?



Did it have a gas bottle? That can add to the cost. You will need one and might want to rent one if you will be doing a lot of welding. Remember besides the cost of welder and bottle you need helmet and gloves


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matthew

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Two other tips:

- I find it's significantly cheaper to buy wire from my welding supply shop rather than hardware stores. A 10 lb. spool was about 40% less expensive.

- Chances are that if you have a small machine for home jobs, it will be used for more than just autobody. Which means having a few different wires to try out. And having to change wire - which can be a pain. On my welder the spool change between 10 lb. spools is easy, but 2 lb. spools takes an extra minute or two. I have .023", .030" and .035" solid wire and .035" flux core. I don't use enough to have all of them in 10 lb. spools, but sort of wish I did.
 

gamescastspencer

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Damn brother you must have the magic touch. I blow through that with normal mig. Good job


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Thanks, I have developed a technique of welding thin stuff almost like a pulse setting. For bridging gaps I zap it, let off for a second to let it cool, zap it until the Gap is bridged. Then use that tack to weld off of tying it in to the parent metal. All with the harbor freight special flux only welder.

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dogdog

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120volt HF wire welder.

yea that is the $80 one, it *****. I wanted one for use as a power supply, but too bad now... ..I think they discontinued it now... the $180 220v one I think people have been upgrading it with their own CAPs at the output and that turned out to be a decent welder.... once upgraded.
 

Kenstone1

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I have a HF 80amp/110V welder that I've used on thicker material with all the different brands of Flux core wire and only the wire from NAPA would not work.

I recently converted it to DC neg torch with a single stage bridge rectifier, and a capacitor that I bought off ebay for about $30 total, and a couple ft. of heavy gage wire, following a youtube video.

The capacitor creates a high frequency type start condition and the DC power/negative torch reduces the spatter to nearly none, with better penetration, producing a much better looking finished weld.
I have not tried .030" wire yet but do pre-heat the material now, before welding, so the 1st few tacks are not cold, and put a piece of aluminum behind anything thin where I can, to keep from burning thru.
Works for me,
:)
 

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