Flux wire welding tips needed

[nflfreak43]

first time welder. need some tips or helping tricks on how to weld with a flux wire welder.

welder:
http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887.html

 

[koditten]

Start out by saving money for the shielding gas. Seriously,you will not believe how much easier it is to weld with the gas.

As for flux core, it works good, but once i got the gas, my welding improved 100 percent.

Do you have good ambient lighting? If you can't see what your welding with the helmet on, you will have an up hill battle. Are you trying to weld good, clean metal? any rust or paint will fight you. Those charts on the welder are only a rough estimate were to start. You will have try different wire speeds and temperature setting to find the best spot. One thing that I found to help was to wear ear plugs, flux core weldiong wire is much more noisy than gas shielded. The little BB's that shoot all over are a pain too. You will need a good welding jacket and gloves. These are things that I can remember off the top of my head. I learned on flux wire too.

 

[ndnchf]

Start out by saving money for the shielding gas.

+1
Shielding gas makes it MUCH easier to make good welds. Well worth the extra $$.

 

[JayL]

Can the welder posted by OP use shielding gas?

When I purchased my MIG welder I did skip flux core in favor of gas welding. I've been a happy camper since I only weld indoors. The gas investment was very much worth it for my use.

Good welds and minimal clean up needed.

 

[kmacht]

It would help if you would tell us what type of welding you want to do. Are you welding thick plate, think sheet, mild steel, stainless? Welding fence posts is alot different then welding an autobody panel in.

Keith

 

[nflfreak43]

Can the welder posted by OP use shielding gas?

When I purchased my MIG welder I did skip flux core in favor of gas welding. I've been a happy camper since I only weld indoors. The gas investment was very much worth it for my use.

Good welds and minimal clean up needed.

no that welder does not switch. but later down the line i will buy a welder that will switch.

 

[nflfreak43]

It would help if you would tell us what type of welding you want to do. Are you welding thick plate, think sheet, mild steel, stainless? Welding fence posts is alot different then welding an autobody panel in.

Keith

typically just thin sheet metal, going to do an exhaust system on my truck, and gonna build a table in the near future out of angle iron.

 

[Double B]

Yes if you switch from flus core mig welding from gas, you will need to switch the polarity to the gun and ground clamp. Don't know why, but it works. Read your welder manual and see if you need to do this. But it does make a huge difference.

 

[rosspulliam]

It's just practice. If you get too much splatter, try turning the wire speed down slowly. Do not use material any thicker than 1/8", I doubt that welder has enough heat to weld anything thicker. Even 1/8" may not get full pentration, though I think with proper prep work (bevelling of the joint, gapping the joint slightly, and have absolutely clean metal) you'll be fine on 1/8" material.

It's all just practice, and if you have specific problems people can help you correct them.

 

[adam728]

Another vote for gas.

I've found flux core to be easy to use on thicker stuff (1/16" or more), but an absolute pain on sheet metal. I'm far from an expert, but I've read that flux core generally welds "hotter" than gas sheilded, so burn thru on thin stuff is much harder to avoid.

 

[nflfreak43]

it doesnt do gas!!!!

its just flux cored wire.....

 

[49tandc]

Get a better ground clamp than what it came with!!

49T&C

 

[ZRX61]

Another vote for gas.

I've found flux core to be easy to use on thicker stuff (1/16" or more), but an absolute pain on sheet metal. I'm far from an expert, but I've read that flux core generally welds "hotter" than gas sheilded, so burn thru on thin stuff is much harder to avoid.

Thats why Fluxcore guns have a built in heat shield

 

[Kaervak]

I bought the exact same welder several months ago to play around with. I'm not a pro, never taken a welding class in my life. I've been laying down beads on scrap metal, just figuring things out as I go along. I'm sure my welds are laughable, but I have been improving.

My advice is get some scrap steel and go town. Blow through the entire spool of wire that comes with it and then get some Lincoln or Hobart flux core and go through that spool too. Try different angles, pushing the puddle, pulling the puddle, short stickout, long stickout, intentionally blow holes in the metal you're welding and then go back and fill them in. Just lay down lots of beads and get the feel for the welder. It's not the greatest welder out there, far from it actually, but it will get the job done.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Another vote for gas.

I've found flux core to be easy to use on thicker stuff (1/16" or more), but an absolute pain on sheet metal. I'm far from an expert, but I've read that flux core generally welds "hotter" than gas sheilded, so burn thru on thin stuff is much harder to avoid.

I find it funny you listed 1/16" as "the thicker stuff" I guess my mark is 1/8"

I used 16ga on my drawers and I welded them w/FC. That was tough, doable, but tough.




If you're doing sheet and thin stuff all the time, go to gas mig. Since you'll often be running spots welds and tacks, FC will leave the area dirty so you'll want to keep a wire brush. Gas mig will be faster in this regard as you won't need to keep cleaning the joint you're working on.

 

[nso123]

With flux core, you will find that a wire brush will be your friend since the flux core wire is a bit more messy than solid wire. Like it has been suggested, get some scrap and play around with it. Adjust the wire speed and the amperage to get a feel for how it will weld. Since gas is not an option for you, get some .030 wire to use. The smaller wire is much easier to use on sheet metal. One last thing, avoit hot roll steel if possible, if not, be sure to remove the millscale or you will have a tough time welding it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My buddy had a Chicago Electric welder like that at one time. When I used it, it seemed like I fought the welder more than I welded. I believe you're only doing to do so "good" with that welder.

 

[R-132 Fan]

I have one of those welders. You can do good welds with it, you just have to be willing to get the stickout right, have the gun at the correct angle to the direction of travel and move along at the correct speed.
I never opened the roll of flux-core weld wire that came with mine. I bought Lincoln contact tips and flux-core welding wire. Around here (Central Texas) Walmart has the best prices on Lincoln welding wire on the small spool.
Practice is the main thing. Take your time and take advantage of the internet for information on what good welds look like. Get a 4 1/2" hand held grinder to put a knotted wire brush in for cleaning your work piece. Flux-core can weld through paint and rust, but for the best work get everything as clean as possible. Try not to use and extension cord with that welder, or if you have to, make it a good heavy gaguge extension cord.
I bought mine to use on building roof trusses in place on my shop expansion. Once I got the settings and gun angle down the machine did some nice welds for me.

 

[R-132 Fan]

One more thing, make sure that ground clamp is gripping clean shiney metal for good electrical contact. Any kind electrical welding means that you are creating an electrical circut. A bad ground will waste energy and not allow your welder to work at its best.
I use a knotted wire brush in a 4 1/2" handheld grinder to get down to clean solid metal and check the ground clamp contacts to make sure the current can flow easily. Check the bolt or screw that holds the lug on the end of the cable where it is secured to the clamp once in a while to make sure it it cleant and tight also.

 

[jinjaninja]

if treated properly and performed properly flux is no harder to weld with than gas...

as to tips, PRACTICE. Practice as much as possible. Try heaps of different things and take note of what does what...

With thinner stuff and flux core try a little heat in the material first, this will allow for lower weld amp but still good penetration. Also allows for a smoother weld without having to build the heat into the material before continuing on.

As other have said, cleanliness is a bonus

 

[adam728]

I find it funny you listed 1/16" as "the thicker stuff" I guess my mark is 1/8".

I normally say 1/8"+ is thicker, but have found 0.065 is weldable with flux.

 

[IndyGarage]

I have a Campbell Hausfield 110V welder and it's probably pretty similar to the Chicago electric.

It's pretty hard to get a good bead on it, but three things help 1. a really clean surface an 2. a better ground - I found it was really sensitive to the ground. and 3. Me being able to see the weld puddle clearly. I just couldn't see the puddle from all the sparks and slag being created. Once I got it to settle down, I could see what I was doing.

I will say that if you can lay down a good bead with one of those things - then you'll feel like a pro the first time you use a nicer welder.

 

[SINISTER]

Lets see some of your welds. How can we tell you how to improve when you and we dont know where you went wrong. That would be like shooting in the dark, and you would have to take from a bunch of useful techniques and figure out where and when to apply them. By showing us some pictures, we can tell you what to do when, where and how. Thus improving your weld rather than digging for clues.

Post pics, Wire size, setting, and wire speed.

 

[srmofo]

I started on a similar machine but mine didnt have wire speed control and only 4 "heat" ranges, which meant I had to move quicker or slower depending on penetration.

Personally I think starting on POS machine is a great idea. It teaches better control and once you learn to weld in a shower of sparks without flinching while getting burned, you'll want a better machine. When you finally get a better machine your fundamentals will be nailed down and its easy sailing from there.

 

[hdpusher]

A lot of good tips so far. (good ground clean metal exct)

I have had the same welder for a few years now. Ran several rolls of wire through it with no problems. (I use the cheap HF stuff) Just keep the welder clean lubricated and the wire feed adjusted. The nice thing about it is porability. Its way easier to drag around than a mig welder with a big tank.

Ill add 2 things.
1. Sound... Listen to the sound of the welder. It sould sound consistant like frying bacon. (mmm bacon) If it does not it needs adjusted.
2. Spray Anti-Spatter in the nozzel of the gun to keep out the weld boogers. The cleaner the better.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I have a Campbell Hausfield 110V welder and it's probably pretty similar to the Chicago electric.

It's pretty hard to get a good bead on it, but three things help 1. a really clean surface an 2. a better ground - I found it was really sensitive to the ground. and 3. Me being able to see the weld puddle clearly. I just couldn't see the puddle from all the sparks and slag being created. Once I got it to settle down, I could see what I was doing.

I will say that if you can lay down a good bead with one of those things - then you'll feel like a pro the first time you use a nicer welder.

With respect, these three things are vital for any machine and any welding job.

Clean metal keeps contaminants out of the weld puddle so the weld can be thorough.

A good ground makes for a good arc. Electricity follows the path of least resistance

Seeing the puddle is absolutely the only way to weld. The puddle tells you if you're doing it right. Do blind people make good drivers?

 

[1984Datsun]

My buddy had a Chicago Electric welder like that at one time. When I used it, it seemed like I fought the welder more than I welded. I believe you're only doing to do so "good" with that welder.

Well, you probably won't believe what my instructor said, then...

He said if you can make good welds with a HF welder, then I'm sure you'll surprise yourself when you do get a real welder... also, he says the finickiness of the HF welder makes for good practice.

As for welding up anything bigger than car exhausts, like trailer frames and thicker stuff like that, you'd be stupid to attempt to weld up things that thick. Someone could and probably would die if that home brewed welded up by a little welder trailer decides to come apart at 70 mph on the highway.




It'll do sheet metal and thin wall tube work like exhaust systems and bodywork. That's it. You can do thicker stuff, but the margin for error gets real narrow... and not hitting that 'sweet spot' with that little welder can mean life or death in the case of a critical part like a trailer frame or suspension parts, etc.


Start by running beads on 1/8" scrap, then work your way down to thinner and thinner stock...

Practice, practice, practice. That's all I can say. You will not (unless you were born as welder with the natural talent) make pretty welds right away... probably not strong ones either. Just run bead after bead and get some time on the gun, that's the only way you'll learn.

One more tip... keep the wire in the forward 1/3 of the weld puddle... trust me, it will make for nearly perfect beads, both in strength and appearance.

So... it would look something like this... (((((.|) That straight vertical line is your wire... the ) is the front of the puddle, don't matter if you're dragging or pushing... keep the wire in that zone and it will help. Learned that from the instructor as well.

 

[GRX]

One important thing ... be sure the flux core welder has the proper pinch roller. It should dimple the wire as it feeds through thus exposing the core. Gas weld rollers are smooth.

 

[1984Datsun]

One important thing ... be sure the flux core welder has the proper pinch roller. It should dimple the wire as it feeds through thus exposing the core. Gas weld rollers are smooth.

What? I've never heard of such a thing in welding class, or from any weldors that I do know. Our instructor or one of the weldors would've brought such a thing up. They didn't.

Never had problems with the smooth v groove roller on my Hobart... no problems with penetration or anything. It is what it came with anyhow. Set up for flux core right out of the box.

Are you talking about knurled rollers? That's not really needed for most welding situations. Mainly used on wire that's real hard to push, (bigger than .045") or on feeders that have to push the wire through a long, long liner out to the gun. You won't need that on a 10-15' liner/gun set up. If it were a 30' set up, then it would be a good idea to run knurled roller(s).

 

[SLCK64]

Hey guys!

Found this thread on a google machine search.

I have a Chicago Electric 90aml flux core welder that I got used, just put a new bigger ground clamp in it.

I've welded before, taken welding classes, etc. So I know this is wrong, the wire is always hot, doesn't matter if I touch the go button or not. I have never worked with a flux core before so wasnt sure if this was mormal?

It does feed normally and I have gotten good welds on 1/8" but am burning through the floorboards I'm putting.

Don't wanna spend $500+ on a 115v MIG if I don't have to, budget minded here. I got the welder off FleaBay for $60 used, so thinking I got ripped off, get what ya pay for right?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[lotsoftools]

Hey guys!

Found this thread on a google machine search.

I have a Chicago Electric 90aml flux core welder that I got used, just put a new bigger ground clamp in it.

I've welded before, taken welding classes, etc. So I know this is wrong, the wire is always hot, doesn't matter if I touch the go button or not. I have never worked with a flux core before so wasnt sure if this was mormal?

It does feed normally and I have gotten good welds on 1/8" but am burning through the floorboards I'm putting.

Don't wanna spend $500+ on a 115v MIG if I don't have to, budget minded here. I got the welder off FleaBay for $60 used, so thinking I got ripped off, get what ya pay for right?

Any help is appreciated!

That's normal for that cheap welder. Better machines don't start an arc til you pull the trigger. What size wire are you using now? For flux core, .030 is probably the biggest you could get away with on sheet metal if you're careful, .023 with gas would be much better.

 

[Denwad]

I've used a chicago electric wire welder before that didn't arc until i pulled the trigger

 

[erty67]

the wire is always hot, doesn't matter if I touch the go button or not.

I had the blue Chicago Electric 90A welder and it was always hot. The nozzle button was for wire feed only. it arched no matter what. I would say that's normal for the model.

 

[SLCK64]

ok, Ill go with normal then, makes sense i suppose, keeps the price down.

I am using hobart 030 wire, will attempt more practice tonight or tmw night.

 

[uhcrandy]

Is 030 the smallest Flux-core made?

 

[erty67]

Is 030 the smallest Flux-core made?

believe so

 

[cousin eddie]

i have the same welder,and i too am just starting out. mine wont arc until i pull the trigger. the best thing i did was also get an auto-darkening helmet when i got the welder.i,ll look into replacing the ground clamp. i believe, and again, im below novice level, but my expert welding buddies agree with me, that its more the man than the machine.

 

[taumac]

I would say practice practice practice. I got a old CEM dual mig 140 running .035 innershield. I find flux is tricky but works well. I weld a lot of bed frame so I practice a lot on that stuff. Get metal you plan to weld and get wire speed down and write it somewhere. Bottom line every machine is different you got to learn your welder likes.

 

[SLCK64]

I'm with ya on the man vs machine, def gonna practice more, was really good at welding(so the instructor told me, and yes he would def know). I think I'm gonna splurge on an oxy/acetylene setup, that really wast favorite way to weld. Besides heat issues what are the cons of gas welding the boards in? Not as strong as a wire weld?

I was looking at this also tonight....thoughts? Would suspect they go through them pretty good.
http://m.northerntool.com/mt/www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200441247_200441247

 

[crewchief888]

Hey guys!

Found this thread on a google machine search.

I have a Chicago Electric 90aml flux core welder that I got used, just put a new bigger ground clamp in it.

I've welded before, taken welding classes, etc. So I know this is wrong, the wire is always hot, doesn't matter if I touch the go button or not. I have never worked with a flux core before so wasnt sure if this was mormal?

It does feed normally and I have gotten good welds on 1/8" but am burning through the floorboards I'm putting.

Don't wanna spend $500+ on a 115v MIG if I don't have to, budget minded here. I got the welder off FleaBay for $60 used, so thinking I got ripped off, get what ya pay for right?

Any help is appreciated!

running flux core on sheetmetal is tricky, but it can be done.

you can try backing up your weld with a strip of copper to act as a heat sink.
actually anything will work as a heatsink, weld wont stick to copper or brass.

once i have a series of tacks in place, i go back to each of those tacks, lay the gun as close to paralell to the floor as i can, use the existing tack to start the next tack. the existing tack sorta serves as a heat sink, drawing heat away.

it's a very, very slow process