To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Foam Board wall insulation

Nhrafan26

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2015
Messages
53
Location
Andreas, PA
if u can cut it tight enough, friction fit, wouldn't seem you would have to attach it........

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4w6gasor8y_b

or cut them loose and gap fill with foam in a can holding long enough for foam to set up

I was considering this but I think i'd rather install it on the bottom of the trusses in one complete layer of foam. only thing that's going to **** is putting up the metal on top of this then.
I'm still up in the air on it. I have a box of 3" screws and just ordered 200 fender washers. I guess I'll decide on the weekend when I want to put it up.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Autorotica

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
526
Location
SE Pa
The foam I bought came from a roofing contractor. He gave me plastic load spanners for the screws as well as metal ones. They have spikes on the back to keep the foam from sliding under the washer.

Chris
 

COBRA5LADDICT

Active member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Messages
31
I also installed foam XPS between the girts. my shop when built had solar guard installed on the framing before the steel. I had about 60% of the XPS on hand from various craigslist posts i responded to. My intent with the foam was 2 fold, 1st to seal up as many drafts as possible and 2nd to isolate the fiberglass from the steel. The foam was cut short of a friction fit because i wanted about 1/4" gap on all sides so i could spray foam the gap. if you look close you can see i have some small 6d nails just tagged at an angle to hold the foam gap where i wanted until i foamed. i got pretty good with the expanding foam in the can. i used 15 cans to do all the walls in my 30 x 50 x 12h. once installed there was a noticeable difference in air infiltration. It took a while but well worth the effort. i have some more pics if you want to see anything else. disclaimer: this was done mainly for air infiltration and cutting down on drafts so i can use fiberglass as my primary insulation. an even better method of install would be to run the sheets vertical and butted up to each other so there is no thermal break at the girts. i didn't want to loose any depth in my "stud bays" because i wanted to use r-19.

 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

brownie088

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Messages
6
Nice pic. Are you going to stud out the walls and install fiberglass batts.? I am getting ready to start insulating my 36x36x12. I want to install xps over the girts from floor to ceiling. Then frame out with 2x4 studs and install R15 rock wool batts over the xps, then osb. Do you think this will work? Is it ok to install batts over xps and not have condensation in the walls? Sorry for long post.
 

Mancino

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Messages
120
Location
Upstate NY
First time poster, but I'm looking to do the same thing with my pole barn. 30x40x12. My problem is when I put up the metal for the sides, I never put up any Tyvek or house wrap.

My question is, will it be ok to put the foam board up anyways and seal it like Cobra did?
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
First time poster, but I'm looking to do the same thing with my pole barn. 30x40x12. My problem is when I put up the metal for the sides, I never put up any Tyvek or house wrap.

My question is, will it be ok to put the foam board up anyways and seal it like Cobra did?

don't know about sealing it, but I put my foam right up tight against the metal with no wrap or anything and haven't had any problems...the sheets are fitted tight between the horizontal girts and pretty well sealed on their own due to the tight fit. since the metal is corrugated, I figure it must vent enough through the air channels to keep any condensation down...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom