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Foam core cabinet doors

ckucia

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Sep 23, 2008
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370
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West Virginia
Been reading lots of old threads on building cabinets.

One theme that comes up somewhat regularly is building the doors so they don't warp.

MDF is often suggested because it is very flat, but it's then subject to moisture damage if not meticulously prepped and then it's also subject to dings and dents.

I came up with an idea of using 3/4" styrene insulating foam and laminating it with Luan to give what should be a light, strong, and largely warp-proof door. I was thinking that the outer frame could be wood and it would let you route a decorative edge or just a round edge to simulate metal cabinets. Also could build in blocks for hinge mounts and handles/latches. The Luan is hardwood faced and could be stained/finished to give a beautiful wood look, or it could be filled and smoothed to give a solid base for a glossy paint job.

Googling around, I didn't find much on this, but I did find some guys who build cabinets for vans by using foam board and reinforcing it with fiberglass screen, "glueing" it on with paint. In the video, there's a blurb where they tried thin plywood and it sounds like it was very strong, although a bit heavier than they were after.


I did a quick cost estimate. Luan and 3/4 styrene board are both around $15/sheet in my area. Probably could also use 1/2 styrene. If you laminated both sides with Luan, you're right around $45, not counting the framing, glue and time. That ends up being a shade less that what maple or birch 3/4 cabinet plywood is going for (about $52 in my area) and you'd have a thicker and lighter door that would better resist warping. If you were going to frame the plywood anyhow, then that ends up being about a wash, not counting the time, of course.

I've not tried this, but I thought I'd throw the idea out there. Might not be worth it for every cabinet door, but if you have a couple of large doors you need to build, it might be worth the experimentation and work.
 
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Jon_E

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Aug 19, 2015
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Southwestern Vermont
Pretty much how my garage doors are built. They are insulated wood doors, and the 'wood' part is a sandwich of 1/4" lauan (meranti) plywood on either side of a 1-1/2" foam core. All edges and reinforced areas are clear Douglas fir. It works very well but a couple things to keep in mind. First, if you want flat, you have to start with flat. You need a dead-flat reference surface to glue up on, like a torsion box. Second, you need the right glue and it needs to be compatible with the foam and spread completely and as evenly as possible.

As far as your comment about larger doors - that's pretty much what a cheap hollow-core interior door is. Two sheets of lauan with a honeycomb-style core that is usually made of cardboard. I use one as a temporary workbench, have done so for years, and it has had a hundred pounds of **** on it for a long time. Still flat.
 

akdiesel

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Aug 8, 2008
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Wasilla, AK
I decided to use 1/2" Seaboard (aka HDPE black). Looking at the cost of material for sheet metal, to fabricate them, and to paint them I looked at other options.
The cost for a 1/2" sheet of 24" x 48" the Seaboard is around $80.
It has the color through out the material so the painting is covered.
The labor is simple with a table saw or worm saw.
Drilled the holes for the piano hinges to accomidate 14" x 1/2" long pan head bolt screws and I simply self tapped them. They do not warp being in the 1/2" or larger size. Scratches can be sanded out if needed but they are very well impact resistant. And they do not rust.
 

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Handyfarmer

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in the high plains of Colorado
I would just use MDF, and seal up the edges good, and there is laminated MDf that has a plastic type laminate on each side, and if wanted one could laminate some laminate to the edges,

one time I saw some foam laminate with an aluminum sheet, (sandwitch panel I think it is called,)
 
Last edited:

ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
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9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
I decided to use 1/2" Seaboard (aka HDPE black). Looking at the cost of material for sheet metal, to fabricate them, and to paint them I looked at other options.
The cost for a 1/2" sheet of 24" x 48" the Seaboard is around $80.
It has the color through out the material so the painting is covered.
The labor is simple with a table saw or worm saw.
Drilled the holes for the piano hinges to accomidate 14" x 1/2" long pan head bolt screws and I simply self tapped them. They do not warp being in the 1/2" or larger size. Scratches can be sanded out if needed but they are very well impact resistant. And they do not rust.

Wow, that turned out REALLY nice.

I've used a lot of generic HDPE as well as Starboard, it's great stuff to work with other than keeping expansion/contraction in mind.
 

Kevin54

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Urbana, Ohio
Don't overthink things. For one, there are many places around that you can buy used doors for almost nothing. Then you can build your cabinet according to the door sizes. Doors are hardwood. Or you can get MDF cabinets and paint them and will last for years. Probably longer than you will live at the place. And unless your cave is going to be damp all the time, almost any wood will go bad. So for the money....MDF would be just fine as long as the are painted.
 
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05r50

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Jan 12, 2013
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Not sure of the sheet costs but MDO is what roadsigns are made from. They hold up to the weather just fine.
 

Lelandwelds

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Sep 6, 2017
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Central Texas
I came up with an idea of using 3/4" styrene insulating foam and laminating it



.

Not sure of the sheet costs but MDO is what roadsigns are made from. They hold up to the weather just fine.

Mdf is ****. MDO is cool stuff.

Laminating foam idea is done thousands of times each day on machines called "airplanes" and "racing sailboats". Extremely strong and stiff. Lots of material choices for core and skin. Costs are low to sky high.

I made a 2'x 4' panel from blue building insulation and kayak fiberglass and epoxy. It held 300 lbs. (Supports one foot from each end and all the weight stacked in the middle.) and was cheap to make.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
The big difference would be weight.
That gets you into hinges and frame strength.
 

Voi

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Oct 10, 2010
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Location
Western South Dakota
One theme that comes up somewhat regularly is building the doors so they don't warp.

A few quick comments:

They make water resistant MDF that is used for outdoor signs. I have never used it or priced it but it received good comments on wood working forums I used to frequent.

There is a version of the Seaboard another poster mentioned that is even lighter and has a foamed interior and it more rigid. That might even have been what he used. I believe the stuff I'm thinking of is Starboard XL.

There is a plastic product which is thin sheets of Sintra laminated onto expanded polystyrene. I never worked with it but ordered a sample and it was surprisingly light and rigid. I can probably figure out what the product is.

There is also just plain Sintra and all the other similar products. I have built cabinets from the 1/2" stuff and it works well.

I used to really like MDO but the last sheet I bought (over ten years for sure) was very low quality for the price I paid. It was probably the Menards product and not the same as what I would've gotten from a premium lumber yard.

The video you posted looks interesting. I look forward to watching it.
 
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