Foam insulation board

[z28dad]

Just wanted to ask if any of you guys have used this stuff from HD.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm wanting to use it on some of the areas on the gable ends of the scissor trusses. They sell an adhesive that is in a caulk tube to glue it to the osb.

My question is this: is it just as simple as cutting it and gluing it to the osb, and drywalling over it, or will it require maybe a vapor barrier? Just trying to think ahead, what about mold? Thanks, Russ

 

[JFoshee]

I have not used it in that application, but I have used it. My shop has two 14' x 6' barn doors and one 10' x 12' roll up door. I cut the board to fit in my panels and used silicone around the edges to hold it in place. I used the 3/4 inch board. I haven't noticed any mold on it, but it is not covered with anything either.

The picture is of a boat trailer I painted, but you can see the doors in the background. The lower part gets wet sometimes, but seams to be holding up well. Hope this helps.

 

[gatchel]

If you get the owens corning documents from their website they tell you most of what you are asking and then some. I believe I remember that foamular board can be used as a vapor barrier, you just have to tape the seams. I used the 2" 250 board under my concrete pad. I will be using the 1" pink on the outside of the house next spring when we redo the siding.


http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/insulation-products/foamular-150.aspx

 

[Racer_X]

I've been putting up lots of the 1.5 inch in one of my older barns. I will offer up a tip when it comes to cutting the stuff.
A utility knife just plain *****.
An Insulknife worked pretty good until they changed the formula for the product this summer. Now it works about as well as a knife.
This past weekend my dad lent me his sabre saw with a non-serrated blade. The blade looks like a 3 inch long razor blade.
It cuts through it like butter! Oh how I wish I would have known this six months ago.

 

[jklingel]

Sticking it right to OSB may be problematic. OSB is not good stuff if it gets wet, and insulation against a cold piece of OSB (if I understand the application) is risky. Air sealing will be absolutely critical. Insulation right against the roofing is best done w/ closed cell spray foam, I believe.

 

[santagary]

I have not used it in that application, but I have used it. My shop has two 14' x 6' barn doors and one 10' x 12' roll up door. I cut the board to fit in my panels and used silicone around the edges to hold it in place. I used the 3/4 inch board. I haven't noticed any mold on it, but it is not covered with anything either.

The picture is of a boat trailer I painted, but you can see the doors in the background. The lower part gets wet sometimes, but seams to be holding up well. Hope this helps.

I have two 9' x 7' garage doors in my shop/barn...what's the best way and what's the best material to insulate them on the inside (they are roll ups)?

 

[Falcon67]

I've been putting up lots of the 1.5 inch in one of my older barns. I will offer up a tip when it comes to cutting the stuff.
A utility knife just plain *****.
An Insulknife worked pretty good until they changed the formula for the product this summer. Now it works about as well as a knife.
This past weekend my dad lent me his sabre saw with a non-serrated blade. The blade looks like a 3 inch long razor blade.
It cuts through it like butter! Oh how I wish I would have known this six months ago.

Then you're doing it wrong IMHO. You score the sheets with the knife and snap. I did my door with 2" rigid foam and figgered this out right quick. Score the line, snap, next piece. Just like drywall but without the paper.

 

[Weedwaka]

PL300 works slick with this. We used it everywhere under our drywall. Its great stuff. How big of an area are you trying to insulate ?

 

[madjack]

I have cut foam board with a 3" wide putty knife. Sharpen the leading edge. Use it like a utility knife. after scoring the board, snap it alond the score line

 

[ishiboo]

Then you're doing it wrong IMHO. You score the sheets with the knife and snap. I did my door with 2" rigid foam and figgered this out right quick. Score the line, snap, next piece. Just like drywall but without the paper.

Agreed - I cut a bunch of this stuff, utility knife was MUCH better than using a sawzall. I did not have a non-serrated blade but it was a PITA

Basically the trick is hold the knife as horizontal as you can so it does not "snag". I also dipped the blade in some silicon lube every cut or so which helped as well. The silicon lube actually dissolves the foam (like many other chemicals.)

 

[Groovy]

Yep I used that against a small brick knee wall used a utlity knife just like drywall I used liquid nails to hold it on there its been wet and beat on and still there 10 years +/-.

like ihsaboo posted as a trick to not snag I use johnsons spray wax alot, more for my table saws and cut off saws, when I need material to slide and not bind. It works well not sure about on that board but just a cheap tip on metal surfaces you want stuff to slide on.I clean it up spray it on and buff it last about a year and does not come off (on wood anyway).

 

[venom50svt]

I wonder if a smooth ceramic blade would make a clean cut. I suppose a regular blade would make a hell of a mess with the dust. Will this foam board insulate a garage door. Regular batt insulation gives me the feeling that there is a warm blanket against a cold surface, but foam board gives me the feeling that the cold will transmit through the board and insulate nothing..... Any feelings on this???

As for making a flat surface such as a table saw slippery, rub it down with "wax paper".. Hey it works on the slide at the park !!!!!!!!!!!

 

[madjack]

Just put your hand against the foam and hold it there for 10 seconds. You will feel the heat from your hand reflecting back. Almost feels like there is a heating element in the foam

 

[venom50svt]

Hmmmm I wil try that,,,thanks, so its something like one of those HOT seats used for hunting????

 

[z28dad]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I went to look at the foam board at hd today. I didn't get it yet, as I'm still unsure what to do. I was thinking that the 1/2 foam had an r value of 30, but I looked at it wrong. Its actually a value of 3.0. Here is a pic of where I was thinking of using it.

The outside of this area is vinyl, a foam that has an r value of 1, and osb.

I'm planning on boxing this area in and building a soffit storage area. I'm going to start another thread to ask for some help in designing the soffit storage area.
I talked to the hd sales guy about the foam today. He said I should use regular r-13 insulation. I thought I had read that a 1/2 of foam was way more efficient than your standard r-13 fiberglass insulation. Am I wrong? Thanks, Russ

 

[usmc_noma]

It should have the r value label stamped on it.

 

[Racer_X]

Then you're doing it wrong IMHO. You score the sheets with the knife and snap. I did my door with 2" rigid foam and figgered this out right quick. Score the line, snap, next piece. Just like drywall but without the paper.

I guess I should have explained - scoring and snapping didn't work in my situation because the boards (why?) are spaced 15.75" inches apart. Score and snap - half of it ends up at the 16 inch width because of the pre-scoring from the factory. Then I had to clean it up with a knife. That's why I was cutting all the way through.
The sabre saw saved the day. It takes about 20 seconds to cut an 8 foot length and the cut edge is as smooth as the outside factory edge.