Follow the track setup wont balance door

[truckermatt]

Hello I am trying to see of i can modify my door 18x8 insulated to follow the inside pitch 2/12 of my garage. i have the track all up and squared and in place.

When i tighten the springs i can lift the door easily all the way up but it will not stay up. I will balance in the middle. If i tighten it anymore then the door will open by itself..

Can I close door all the way and loosen the drums on either side to lower the door?

Can the opener handle holding the door in place when fully opened?

Thanks for the help, I will add pictures soon, there are on my phone.

 

[MikeF]

Most from the factory use a slight stronger spring to hold the weight of the door as it isn't resting in the horizontals like a standard door. What kind of opener? May have add small amounts of tension to each spring to get it to balance. Some companies run hot off the floor to hold the door in the header.

Was the door a standard left door that you are converting?

 

[egnorant]

I have been looking at this problem myself. The weight of the door does not unload as much with the door moving at an angle rather than moving to a horizontal.

Currently I have a magnet with one of my many screwdrivers near the door and when I raise the door, I slip the screwdriver in a hole in the track to hold the door all the way up.

While I have contemplated different spring settings and rates, maybe a counterweight system or powered opener that can deal with an increase in effort...push a little on closing and pull a little at open, I have finished many projects using my screwdriver method.

Bruce

 

[The Cobbler]

springs are calculated on door weight and track type etc. If you're trying to convert the track to something different than the original spring was meant for, there's your problem.
I recently bought a brand new door that was an oops, I wanted to change the tracks to high lift & was told I would need to change the spring, cable drums as well as the track. in the end it wasn't worth it.

 

[mmb617]

I had a standard door that I cut and welded the tracks to make it high lift. I needed new springs, cables and drums to make it work. No amount of messing with the original spring tension could make it work otherwise.

I had the same problem you do, it wanted to balance half way up. If I put enough tension on the springs to hold it at the top it wouldn't stay closed. I think the main factor is the drums are configured differently on a high lift door with a bigger radius at the start. At least that's the main difference I saw. Plus the proper spring was obviously bigger both in diameter and length.

I was able to give the info on what my door weighed, how far the vertical track ran before the bend and the radius of the bend to a garage door company and they fixed me up with exactly what I needed for around $200. Then it was just a matter of swapping out parts.

 

[pattenp]

By adding slope you've added weigh as the door opens. Adjust the springs to the point where the door will stay closed on its own. When opening the door if it won't stay up all the way up to the header, say within a foot or so and it's still easy to push up by hand then the opener should be able to handle opening and keeping the door fully open. Typically when door travel is changed to being higher than normal requires different springs and also drums depending on the change of height and travel.

 

[MikeF]

Drums and cables only change if the height of the springs changes. Highlift drums have a larger diameter for the first few "steps" before the flat then standard lift drums.

Worst case, you call a door company with your door weight and height to center of torsion shaft as well has style of lift (roof pitch in your case) and they can get you the proper springs. May only be a little longer or the next wire size up. You can manipulate the drums a little by wrapping them in electrical tape a few times over the groves to increase diameter, however, results are hit or miss.

 

[truckermatt]

I planned on using a chamberlain belt drive opener mounted to the ceiling.

What does run hot off the floor mean?

It's really not a high lift door setup. I just angled the horizontal track to match my roof pitch. I didn't even have to cut the track or alter the track or brackets.

 

[MikeF]

Highlift is another type of track style. It refers to the amount of track above the header to the radius. Yours is not. Hot of the floor is how we say its light on the floor. A little light on the floor is ok as long as it stays open, sometimes you have to find the lesser of two 2 evils to save some money.

 

[MikeF]

Ypu should be fine with the opener holding the weight. It doesn't look like it's that bad or steep. The opener will learn the force needed and should be able to compensate a little bit.

 

[jstroede]

You shouldn't need new cables or drums with roof pitch setup. You just need a new pair of springs. If you tell me what size of springs you have now, or how much the door weighs, I can figure up what you need. They aren't that expensive. Do it correctly and be done with it.

John

 

[truckermatt]

just an update, I got the door to open correctly and follow the pitch of the trusses... I call the door mfg and asked if i could go beyond the recommended turns of the spring and they said yes , a little... all i needed was 3/4 turn past what was suggested in the manual and everything works perfect... its so nice not have the opener and track in the way.
Thanks for everyone help.