Footer Problems

[gonegonzo]

I bought a house with an old concrete block garage (detached). The blocks are cracked on the mortar joints . I pointed them up but over the winter (OHIO) some of the repaired joints cracked again . I'm thinking the footer may not be deep enough , Just Guessing .

I'd like to take the block down to the concrete floor and pour a 8'' wide curb on top of where the blocks were . Then I want too frame the walls with 2X6's and cover with ply and siding .

Am I headed in the right direction here ? The garage isn't worth putting a lot of money into . I only store my tractor and welding equipment in it .

Thx ,
Gonzo

 

[buddyboy]

if you think the joints are cracking because the foundation is moving then removing the blocks to put a curb and stick built wall will not solve that issue.

all you are really saving is the roof and the floor. if you are going that route then maybe figure out a way to remove the walls and sink poles into the ground below frost line and let the roof rest on girders that are tied to the posts, then frame between the posts.

a lot of work

the other thing you may consider is to insulate the ground around your building so it doesn't freeze. google "shallow foundation insulation" this may be your cheapest easiest fix

 

[wssix99]

Pictures?

 

[gonegonzo]

Sorry but I don't have any pictures .

What ever I do has to be low dollar at this time .

Thx

Gonzo

 

[Rookie2]

What does the inside floor look like ?

 

[homebuilt burner]

I don't know how bad the cracking is, but my parents garage is the same way and has been for 25 years. Never seems to get any worse. We have tuck pointed and filled cracks to have them reappear a year later. Eventually, we just left it alone, still standing, they still park new cars and trucks in it.

 

[wssix99]

Sorry but I don't have any pictures .

Just Guessing .

Without pictures, we're just guessing, too.

I'd like to take the block down to the concrete floor and pour a 8'' wide curb on top of where the blocks were .

Why not just drill some holes in the block and pour concrete in the block cavities? That would be less expensive and would give you effectively the same thing.

If you are looking at making a grade beam at the bottom of the wall, you'd need to put steel reinforcing in the right places and would need some engineering to make sure it will hold. If not done right, it will just crack apart like the wall did.

 

[gonegonzo]

The inside of the floor looks OK . In fact I was going to add rebar to the curb by epoxying rebar in holes drilled in the floor .

wssix 99 . You say drill the block ? Orr did you mean take the block down and pour the concrete in the holes exposed ?

If can pour a successful curb wall and sud build the walls back , I'd rather go that route .

Thx
Gonzo

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you want to do something low dollar, break out the shovel. Try digging down beside the footer to see how deep it really is.

 

[dutchgray]

If its hair line cracks then I would just leave it alone, its probably not going to get any worse and there is not a lot you can do about it short of rebuilding it that will make much difference. Larger cracks or anything that is opening up then you may have to do something.

 

[blkhonda1991]

how big is the building? are the cracks along the mortar joints?

 

[wssix99]

The inside of the floor looks OK . In fact I was going to add rebar to the curb by epoxying rebar in holes drilled in the floor .

wssix 99 . You say drill the block ? Orr did you mean take the block down and pour the concrete in the holes exposed ?

If can pour a successful curb wall and sud build the walls back , I'd rather go that route .

Thx
Gonzo

What are you trying to achieve with the curb wall? Do you have walls above the block currently?

Is your thought that the curb will keep the wall from moving or are you trying to make a more solid foundation for a new wall?

(Based on what you want to achieve, I can better answer your question.)

 

[gonegonzo]

BlkHonda >>> the building is 36' X 24' . The cracks are at the mortar joints but the door opening has closed about 1/2'' .

Wssix99 >>> There is an attic storage above the garage . The gables are stick built .My goal is to establish a more solid foundation for the new wall .

Thx
Gonzo

 

[BDT/NWMN]

If you want to do something low dollar, break out the shovel. Try digging down beside the footer to see how deep it really is.

Absolutely... dig down and find out what you actually have for a footer. Compare your findings to current building codes for your locality.. The footer may or may not be part or all of the problem.. The floor may look ok, because it was probably poured as the final part of the construction; after the blocks were in place... or was the floor and footer poured at one time as a slab with footings?? If this is the case; the condition of the floor would be more of an indicator of the condition of the footer .... For sure, there are questions that rate some solid answers

It is possible the footer is ok; and the block layer skimped or errors were made in the mortar mix.... Keep us posted on what you find out

 

[gonegonzo]

The floor was poured after footer and walls were built .

Gonzo

 

[BDT/NWMN]

besides digging down along the outside of the footer to check size and condition; using a baseball or softball bat; hold the bat straight up and down using one hand to hold the grip end. tap the floor in various areas and note the tone. Now tap along side the wall and listen for a hollow sound... the footer may have sunk, leaving a void under the edge of the floor which would be reflected in that hollow sound.... Using a bat on the inside, and a shovel on the outside should help solve the mystery...

 

[WVBrady]

Repointing doesn't add much strength. If you used something such as Quik-Wall, inside and out, it would strengthen the wall quite a bit and wouldn't take that long.

http://www.quikrete.com/AtHome/Video-Dry-Stack-Wall.asp

 

[wssix99]

Wssix99 >>> There is an attic storage above the garage . The gables are stick built .My goal is to establish a more solid foundation for the new wall .

Filling the block with concrete will give you a more solid foundation. (You can also cut horizontal slots to add some rebar. This is messy work, but I would think it would be less likely to crumble.

Filling the cavities with steel and/or concrete will not keep it from moving or cracking. The only way to stop the movement is to invest in a new foundation.