Footings and rebar

[BirksToyBox]

Here's a pic for rebar and footings. I see some do verticals every 2 feet and some w 4 feet spacing. I was thinking of a 8x16 footer w 2 horizontal rebar runs and then every 4 ft. a vertical with the L shaped. Using #4 1/2 inch rebar and overlapping 24 inches. Any concrete guys on here want to pitch in if this is good and sound? On top of my footing will be a 6 foot tall 8 inch wall. Then a 26x40x10 stick built garage. Thanks

 

[Zeke]

That's some nice work. But I don't understand your question. Anyway, if that was done in 2015, moot point.

 

[BirksToyBox]

That's some nice work. But I don't understand your question. Anyway, if that was done in 2015, moot point.

That's someone else's pic. I jus am using it as a reference. I am digging soon w my project. Question is... Is 2 horizontal runs and 4 foot spacing on the verticals good? Thanks

 

[strutaeng]

The L-shaped verticals (I'm assuming that's what you are talking about) are dowels for the CMU. That's going to be based on the CMU grouting/reinforcement spacing, but 48" o.c. for that type of wall you are mentioning "seems" reasonable.

You can use a full-sized plywood template strip for layout to try to get the dowel as close to the center of the CMU cell.

 

[BirksToyBox]

The L-shaped verticals (I'm assuming that's what you are talking about) are dowels for the CMU. That's going to be based on the CMU grouting/reinforcement spacing, but 48" o.c. for that type of wall you are mentioning "seems" reasonable.

You can use a full-sized plywood template strip for layout to try to get the dowel as close to the center of the CMU cell.

Thanks!! A concrete company will be pouring the wall.

 

[jack stand]

Thanks!! A concrete company will be pouring the wall.

Check with them, they may want a full length "key" in the footer as well especially with fully back filled walls.
It's nothing more than a "V" scraped into the footer surface a couple of inches deep in the middle-legnth wise.

 

[billconner]

I don't know where you are, but you might want to see what is required by code in your jurisdiction. And complying with code is usually necessary, but may not be sufficient. For instance, where I live, a non active seismic area, rebar is not required in footings nor in stem walls at least to some height of unbalanced fill. Doesn't hurt to do more than code requires. Personally I've always like trying to get to what's needed.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Do have drawings/plans/specs? Wall rebar is very dependent on your unbalanced backfill. If you have a basement type situation with 5’ of fill dirt on the exterior, then you will probably need more vertical bar than what you show. Do you have a building permit/inspection requirements? Standard rebar laps are based on concrete strength ( which can also be affected by your unbalanced backfill) and are quite geographic specific, probably need to check local codes.

 

[duneslider]

In my area the rebar has to be spec'd by the engineer. They put the rebar in like the plans call and then the inspector checks it BEFORE they pour.

 

[bb29510]

this is what I did today, for concrete tomorrow

 

[BirksToyBox]

Do have drawings/plans/specs? Wall rebar is very dependent on your unbalanced backfill. If you have a basement type situation with 5’ of fill dirt on the exterior, then you will probably need more vertical bar than what you show. Do you have a building permit/inspection requirements? Standard rebar laps are based on concrete strength ( which can also be affected by your unbalanced backfill) and are quite geographic specific, probably need to check local codes.

No design just researching. Might be switching to a slab. I am working w the inspector. Thanks.

 

[BirksToyBox]

this is what I did today, for concrete tomorrow

wow...Nice job...looks very strong

 

[BirksToyBox]

Anybody pour a slab then wish they woulda did a frost wall on footings? The slab vs stem wall debate is never ending. Slab sure would be easier. I really don't care about easiness, I just want a sound structure but don't need to over do it. Here's a pic of a slab design that I'm seriously thinking about going with. Located in Southern WI

 

[billconner]

I would expect some sort of frost protection would be required for this in Wisconsin. If not footing below frost depth, then FPSF (frost protected shallow foundation) - basically something like 2" of XPS under slab extending 4' out all around perimeter of building, at least 10" below grade.

I personally prefer a deep footing and stem wall, and separate floating slab, but both are viable. You might need an architect or engineer for FPSF. Varies with building department.

PS - will you heat this building?

 

[JWILLIE1977]

First picture shows the tails of the vertical "L" bars on top of the continuous horizontal bars. In my 25+ years, this has been a no-no. The tails should be under the horizontal bars, as shown in @bb29510's photo of his top notch install.
Also, the direction the tails point can be of importance in certain applications.

Wish I could get some of the contractors on the projects I inspect to tie the vertical bars. Most of these wannabees think is standard procedure to wet stick the verts after concrete is placed. Sure, it's easier and faster, but it's a deficiency, for several reasons.