Force Hot Air Propane Heater

[CJM8515]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Forced-Air-Propane-60000-BTU-Portable-Forced-Air-Propane-Heater/1001045780

For the price, seems hard to beat. I need to heat an approx 500sqft garage. The home is new to me and I know the attic is insulated, not sure on the walls. Last winter when I moved in, it got quite cold in there approx 10-15 degrees tops warmer than outside and I got condensation on my tools. id probably only use it to heat the garage up to about 65F and then just maintain it. How long does a 20lb cylinder last typically doing that?

I know for a fact the side entry door and the garage door are poorly sealed-which may work to my advantage due to the CO2 Im sure this thing puts out.

Thoughts? for the price this particular one sold at lowes seems worth it. I plan on putting a CO2 monitor in the garage as well just to cover my bases.

 

[kberjian]

I purchased a similar one here and when it was -15C/0 F last weekend I used it for 8 hours at full heat and the propane tank still has some left. I also have a couple Carbon Monoxide (CO) monitors to ensure I don't die. With only 500ft2 I would be very worried about CO..... Especially with a 8' ceiling.

 

[toyotadriver]

That heater is vent free so it will pump a LOT of moisture into the air. Your condensation issues will get worse.

You have about 91k BTU per gallon of propane and at approximately 4 gallons of propane per 20 lb tank, you have about 364k BTU of propane available. That's roughly 6 hrs of propane. However, you won't be able to run it non stop for 6 hrs because at 60k draw it may freeze up the tank if you draw non stop from the tank.

 

[PoorUB]

60,000 BTU is about 2x of what you need, even without the insulation. Plus that heater does not have an on/off thermostat, you need to shut it off when it gets warm and manually restart it when you get cold, a real pain IMO.

First thing I would do insulate the walls. You are just fighting a losing battle until you do.

I would be looking for something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XTBV8SB/?tag=atomicindus08-20 except larger, maybe 20,000 BTU.

 

[Wrench97]

I have one it works to take the chill off but unlike a kerosene heater it does have a flame raging out the front so you have to be careful where you put it.

 

[CJM8515]

60,000 BTU is about 2x of what you need, even without the insulation. Plus that heater does not have an on/off thermostat, you need to shut it off when it gets warm and manually restart it when you get cold, a real pain IMO.

First thing I would do insulate the walls. You are just fighting a losing battle until you do.

I would be looking for something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XTBV8SB/?tag=atomicindus08-20 except larger, maybe 20,000 BTU.

Thats a bit more than i sorta wanted to spend. Im not looking to heat the garage constantly, just when I work in there and enough to take the chill out. For the price tag I thought it would be worth it. Other idea was one of those propane heaters that like a giant metal cylinder The condensation only happened maybe 2x and I hadnt heated anything-just naturally occurred as was cold in the am and warmer in the pm I think

I was just in there and its about 50F outside and about 55F in the garage. I have this little thing (well dynaglow but same thing) and its ok, heated it up to 62F after about an hour or two. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mr-Heater-9000-BTU-Portable-Radiant-Propane-Heater/3353726

They do have a much larger model https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tough-Buddy-18000-BTU-Portable-Radiant-Propane-Heater/3011768

or theres this thing thats similar to the larger mr buddy heater but with wheels https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mr-Heater-...TU-Portable-Cabinet-Propane-Heater/1000838408 but no fan. upside is the fan ont he mr buddy needs batteries if you want it to work it seems.

I looked today as I havent spent much time in the attic-its not insulated so thats something thats on the list for sure as I thought it was. working on the house at this point is more important however.

if you did insulate it- what r value would you use and how would I get the walls done-its all drywalled and I rather not pay for that fancy blown insulation.

 

[PoorUB]

if you did insulate it- what r value would you use and how would I get the walls done-its all drywalled and I rather not pay for that fancy blown insulation.

Well, if the walls are sheet rocked already it limits your choices, hire someone to do blow in or rip down the sheet rock, put up fiberglass and hang new sheet rock!

If the walls are in good condition, just pay someone to blow in insulation. I think you might be surprised how little it costs. If the current sheet rock is in por shape, rotten from getting wet at the bottem, full of holes and gouges, perhaps ripping out wouldn't be the worst thing.

 

[yeldogt]

The "fancy" insulation for existing walls is a loose fill. They drill a hole top and bottom and fill the bay -- not foam.

As others have said -- the propane will just add more moisture to the air. When you burn natural gas - it's two for one water or 12% of total weight. My memory is propane is 2x that .. a lot of water.

The torpedo type are very loud ... they are really not the best for what you want to do.

The cost of small tanks of propane -- filling 20lb cylinders. Think you would be better off getting a nice electric that will throw some heat in your direction. Propane is going up as well. Let's uses some rough figures. Taking electric cost of .18kw in NJ and x 27 == $4.86 per gallon of propane. You would get all the heat out of the unvented propane -- electric is direct 100%. Now -- $4.86 is expensive propane when filling a 1000g tank. I did mine at around $2 last summer. But -- you are getting 20lb tanks. 20lb tank is about 4.6 g. Lets use 4.5 -- my ACE was about $20 bucks to flip those. 20 / 4.5 = $4.40 gallon. You can plug in your own numbers ... but, it's about a wash

I have a nice electric heater with thermostat and duel heat settings that I have used over the years ---- sadly -- everything is up in price today.

Do you have a panel to feed any additional electric -- electrict is going to need 20am 220v

 

[CJM8515]

Ill see about the cost of blown insulation and do the attic myself with some R19 I think. Once done Ill see about electric, propane, natural gas, etc. Reality is the reasons I wanted a torpedo heater was for simplicity and it would be used to bring the air up to temp and then shut down till needed again.

There is a panel in the garage that is split off from the house (garage is sep from house) and I can see where the electric comes in. I might be able to wire in 220 with the help of an electrician friend maybe. Like I said, im not looking to heat it constantly, just enough to take the chill out. But first insulation is needed. Probably not gonna do it this year as I have to redo the inside of the house, tear off a deck and redo that, insulated the attic and crawlspace better, replace the sliding patio door, paint, etc. def on the to do list. for now the little buddy heater did work to take the chill off.

for sure the garage does need insulation, to be sealed and flashed redone at the garage door, either a new entry door or at least redo the sill plate and weather strip.

the list is long, the money is somewhat there lol.

 

[toyotadriver]

Vent free can get you by.....it worked for me for a long time. It's just less than ideal since it does put lots of moisture into the heated space. If I was in your position, I'd get that Mr. Heater cabinet heater. It'll take care of your desire for heat now and then save up for insulation and a better heater in the future.

 

[finn]

I have one similar to that. Don’t remember the brand, but many retailers sell them in different colors, under different brand labels.

They work ok for what they are....temporary heat sources. I built a tent around my plow truck once to change a heater core in December, and have used it to thaw pipes or provide spot heat in an Uninsulated lean to.

Cons are the concentrated heat in front of the burner makes it imperative that you keep that area clear. They aren’t good at providing uniform heat distribution, and they are fuel hogs.

Pros are that they are cheap and portable.

Personally, I would save up a few hundred dollars for a ceiling hung vented heater with a thermostat, and some insulation. You’re going to want that eventually anyway.

These things are ok for emergency use, but not satisfactory for regular use, which sounds like where you are headed.

 

[yeldogt]

Obviously if NG is available -- that's the long term solution.

My nephew was in a like situation years ago. Development house where they did not insulate the two other walls of the garage. His gas service was on the garage side --- it was easy to install a cabinet heater on that wall and run the gas line outside and into the back of the heater. I can't remember if we did the 30k or 40k heater. It was enough do to his expanded 2 car ..... as he made improvements the space was easier to heat.

Since the gas was easy to connect it was my advise to "cry once" -- he never had to do anything else for heat. Also -- the cost to run the unit the way he did was low enough -- he never had the two walls insulated while he was there ... about 10 years

 

[Showkey]

The other issues with vent free besides the moisture:

1. They are noisy ( loud)
2. They stink ( smell)…….no matter how perfect the combustion process is or claimed to be.
3. Any solvents or products used in the shop pass through the flame and are dumped in the room…….the by products can be very toxic …….brake clean is one example.

 

[CJM8515]

just incase anyone was wondering

I went through with it and Im happy I did. the lowes guy got me to sign up for the card and gave me 20% off. I asked for a propane tank and he told me they were like 60 bucks and I made a face (I have empty tanks at home I could swap, didnt think to bring it). he just put in as an exchange on the ticket and handed me a tank lol..$22 dollars

Yes, the thing is noisy and yes it does smell a bit. But if I turn it on full blast within 10 mins its 80F in there and thanks to the poor insulation that lasts a good 2, maybe 3 hours as it drops back to about 55-60F again. I shut it off once the temp rises enough to be comfy. So far I think I have used it about a dozen times and the tank feels maybe 3/4 full.

If I hadnt just redone the front walk, put in a belgium block curb around the driveway and street (we dont have curbs here), new garage apron, fixed the termite damage to the front sill plate and face beam id have probably bought the insulation and a wall mounted heater and plumbed in natural gas. But for 100 bucks propane heater has worked out well. I thank my lucky stars my best friend is a contractor and my cousin is a mason..IDK what this woulda cost otherwise.

Plan this spring/summer is to re-insulate the attic and crawlspace. Im going to put r19 right over the old junk where I can. Insulate the garage attic, build a new shed, fix the deck, etc, etc. Oh and i still gotta re-trim the inside of the house and paint it. Expensive next year or two.

 

[Bretny]

Non vented propane almost always ****. With them you can either be warm or breath. Never both. If you plan on getting a vented heater in the future just do it.

 

[gmcgeo]

Non vented propane almost always ****. With them you can either be warm or breath. Never both. If you plan on getting a vented heater in the future just do it.

i breathe just fine with them, unless you have problems with raspatory issues i don't see why you cant breathe

 

[PoorUB]

I had carbon monixide posioning when I was in my later teens. I am very sensitive to CO to this day. I can not stand to be in a building with a torpedo heater, or any unvented heater. I get sick in a very short time.

 

[gmcgeo]

in a very tight house "any house built today" you would not want a vent free heater unless you crack a window to allow fresh air coming in. I have a vent free fireplace in my basement, it does great. however i have fresh air coming into the basement allowing to recirculate. if your unit is putting off that much Carbon or putting off carbon monoxide then something is wrong with the unit and its burning incorrectly.

gas ranges are vent free.

 

[Skiff Builder]

I used a 22k propane radiant garage heater for years. No electric needed, quiet, with T stat. I never had moisture, rust or breathing issues.
Built several boats- no issues with fiberglass/ resin cures or dust.

Radiant felt good right away- like the sun.
I actually have mine up on Craigslist- moved- have natural gas now

HeatStar® HS25N 25,000 BTU Natural Gas High Intensity Radiant Workshop Heater

Since 1974, JME has been a trusted distributor of petroleum equipment, loading systems, sanitary supplies, fire safety products, and industrial parts. Shop now to see why 1000s of customers have chosen us as their preferred provider.

www.jmesales.com

Could be a good fit for you.

 

[Bretny]

in a very tight house "any house built today" you would not want a vent free heater unless you crack a window to allow fresh air coming in. I have a vent free fireplace in my basement, it does great. however i have fresh air coming into the basement allowing to recirculate. if your unit is putting off that much Carbon or putting off carbon monoxide then something is wrong with the unit and its burning incorrectly.

gas ranges are vent free.

And not many people try to heat there home with a 15kbtu gas range either.

 

[gmcgeo]

And not many people try to heat there home with a 15kbtu gas range either.

ranges are 50k to 65k btus, entire range including ovens and burners. and you would be surprised how many ppl actually heat there house with it.

I have a lot of customers that do it.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Non vented propane almost always ****. With them you can either be warm or breath. Never both. If you plan on getting a vented heater in the future just do it.

Maybe in a particular environment. In my case, the radiant non vented propane heater I had recommended 3 sq inches of vent per 1k btu- in my case 66" sq. My garage was not super tight, had a window to crack open. Also building boats had me opening the overhead door couple times a day for material movement-plenty of air change.

Current 1100' shop has a non vented 30k blue flame nat gas. No issues to report after 5 years. No tools rusting. Shop is tighter, but again, in and out for materials changes the air. Also have vents in walls- can open/ close.

In both locations heat runs only when working or epoxy cures going on. Not much more than the range cooking up 3 meals a day and entertaining one day a weekend in the winter.

There are probably some garage situations where non vented can be appropriate/ acceptable.

 

[CJM8515]

500sqft shop with uninsulated attic, drafty (as in I can see daylight) side door and garage door, and the ridge is open with a vented ridge on the roof.

I started with the window open a bit to be sure and I put in a CO monitor/alarm..nothing I havent felt light headed with it on and the smell wasnt that bad. I have moved to shut window now. I did NOT use any chemicals while it was on either. Also the heat only lasted tops 2-3 hours maybe while I was in there after I heated it up and shut it down. I think the fact the garage is a bit drafty is helping.

Now, a friend bought a similar unit and felt light headed after awhile. His home is much newer (15 years old tops) and Im sure the garage is way better insulated as well as sealed overall.