Fork lift propane regulators are freezing over...!

[smothers33]

Well, I back with an up-date...I guess the problem with the freezing up was because the water hose from the thermostat housing was blocked up with crystalized anti freeze...No water flow at all...Geez, Have to replace the diaphagms anyway...There leaking...And now I have to try and find another thermostat (lower) housing as the hose ****** corroded and broke-off...And it's cast on not threaded...The radiator appears to be clean enough after all that work..

Here's a new one...The radiator's out of the way and I see the Hydro-pump back there and it's obviously leaking from the seal at the shaft/u-joint...I wonder what I'd be getting into w/that...? If I COULD break that "out going" line nut...There's only an 1 & 1/2", I could move the pump back...If that would be enough to slip out the shaft/u-joint w/out having to take the u-joint apart, too. That would be great...! I think I'm dreaming...lol It sure would be great to have a fork-lift that didn't leak...!

just for future reference always start simple then work your way up. you said fairly early in your post that the water lines were cold. also im not sure how often you ran the truck with the reg freezing or how long you left it running while it was freezing but more than likely if you ran it long enough or enough times the seals probably gave out due to them freezing. i know alot of people were telling you the diaphrams and seals were probably bad right off the bat so its not your fault but just incase this ever happens again make sure you solve the water issues first before you shell out cash to replace or rebuild those. also when you get it all back together make sure you fill the radiator and then pull one of the 2 hoses off the reg. Not all the way off just enough to bleed the air out of the reg. if you dont do this you will have a air pocket in the reg and it will freeze again.
also im not 100% about your exact setup but most of the time we pull the counterweight to get to the pump or get it up on lift or blocks to get it from underneath. all depends on the setup but from what it sounds like i dont think you have another truck big enough to get it off the ground or remove the counterweight so depending on how bad the leak is i would probably leave it alone unless your sure you can get it

 

[mech-tech]

As for the hydraulic pump leaking, word of caution, order the seal straight from the dealer before even attempting the repair. DO NOT ORDER ANY AFTERMARKET SEAL! There are many types of seals and many metric seals, so you NEED the right one. Typically the hydraulic pump unbolts from a mounting bracket and you can simply slide the pump splined end off the shaft. You can disconnect the pressure hose without much mess, but the big suction hose WILL make a mess. It's best to drain the tank before removing this hose. The tank is probably around 10 or 15 gallon capacity, so be ready to catch some hydraulic fluid. Oh, did I mention to make sure to order the seal straight from the dealer?

 

[kevin47]

As for the first question...I believe it only froze on me 3 times...I don't know why it didn't do it more often with as bad as it was clogged, except for the fact I have always used it previously during the summer...Thanks for the bleeding tip...!

As for the pump...I sure would like to fix the seal...Like to do it without removing the counter-weight...Have to borrow a fork-lift to do that I suppose...and their kind of busy...

Yes, I would want the seal in hand, first..I have a fork-lift parts dealer I can get from...I know it's 40MM on the shaft...He'll figure it out for me...He gotten me other parts...

And like I said...It's an 1'' & 1/2 is all I could slide it back w/out removing the counter-weight...Looks to be close...! With the counter-weight removed it would be a snap to "break" the pressure line...In place I'd have to use some type of "crows-foot" to get to it, a home-made one at that...Probably...

Oh, boy...The thing had been leaking long enough that the previous owner dumped "kitty-litter" under the "ledge" on the counter-weight to hide the leak and so's not to leave to big a mess...He just didn't mention it to me...Although, I saw him adding fluid to the tank when I was buying it...I looked in the tank and didn't think it held more than about a gallon or two...It appears to be almost empty...So I can see in pretty well...

So, with the pump out I would just remove the 4 bolts and cover and press out the old seal...? it would be great to have it not leaking...What's with the second "nut" underneath the upper one...Do I hold it still while the big (upper) nut is loosened...? Thanks, fellas...

 

[Hyster Gareth]

Hello Kevin is the pump noisy at all? I'm just concerned that with the amount of oil loss you allude to and the fact the seal has failed.

It's possible that the pump may have the beginnings of cavitation.

Cavitation occurs when the volume of fluid demanded by any part of a hydraulic system exceeds the volume of fluid being supplied by the pump. This causes the absolute pressure in that part of the circuit to fall below the vapor pressure of the hydraulic fluid.

This results in the formation of vapor cavities within the fluid, which implode when compressed, causing a characteristic knocking noise and damaging impellers and other components.

As mech-tech has stated get a proper genuine seal and make sure all work is carried out in a clean enviroment. Dirt and hydraulics dont mix.

Good luck keep us informed.

 

[kevin47]

No noise at all...I realize that is how the radiator collected so much dirt...It was from the "slinging" of the pump fluid leaking from the seal...The radiator fan would pull shop dust in and eventually built up on the radiator blocking the cooling fins...All cleaned up now, but...

 

[refusemechanic831]

This suddenly started happening...Driving around in my Toyota fork lift and it stalls...Open it up and the two propane regulators are "frosty" and it won't run 'till they thaw out...Then it will only run for a few minutes 'till they frost up again...What to do...? Are they shot...? Why so suddenly...? Any waY to fix them with out rebuild or replacement...? Thanks Guys...!

I have other Toyota question I'll have to run by you guys...Just did a complete brake job...including master cylinder...Now, my transmission slips and I can't go up hills...Wonder if the "bands" are adjustable...? Maybe I better start a separate "thread for that...Kevin The fork lift is a 1983...

Had the same problem on a hyster 50xm. However the problem started after I replaced the vaporizer which was leaking from the seals. This particular vaporizer had no adjustment screws or anything only test ports. Replaced the new vaporizer got her started and was missing and would eventually die at idle or if I applied throttle. After checking for leaks none were found I adjusted timing and got her running. Which now noticed the vaporizer frosting. Let it run with no leaks for a week or two till it got cold. Would start but miss and eventually die. Long story short the coolant lines that run through the vaporizer are not there to cool. They are there to prevent icing. The feed line for coolant in my case is right before the thermostat so if there is no thermostat or it is stuck open fail safe it's bypassing warm water flow or ambient temp water period. I found that there was no thermostat in my situation installed one and been running good for months. Replacing a vaporizer may require a mixture adjustment at the throttle body as well as a timing adjustment. The cheapest, inexpensive, and labor intensive way would be to change the thermostat. Not sure when u posted but I hope u figured it out. If not hope this helps.

 

[refusemechanic831]

Couple of possibilities:

- check if there is enough coolant in the radiator. A part of the hot coolant will run through the vaporizer/regulator to prevent freezing. No coolant = freezing.

- but mostly the rubber membrane (inside the vaporizer/regulator) have a leak or a burst.

- another possibily is the small flat piece of spring-metal with a piece of rubber on it (don't know the english name) that seals a small hole (all inside the vaporizer/regulator). Check that the piece of rubber is intact. If it is not too much liquid will vaporize = freezing.

Let us know what you found.

Cheers!

Check valve

 

[Sycan]

Hopefully he hasn't been waiting 9 years and 11 months for more tech advice!