Forklift Opinions?

[cr0ntab]

This one came back on the market:

Facebook

www.facebook.com

I missed it the first time around, new seller wants $2300, I'll probably offer $2k

 

[OccupantRJ]

This is my unit, a Datsun 3k capacity from around 1970 or so. It has a standard Datsun truck cablight 4 cylinder OHV engine in it on gasoline. I bought it from my neighbor for $600 in 2003 and did an overall refurbishment on it in my shop including full engine rebuild and lift cylinder repacking. I ended up with $1800 in it when it was ready to go. I bought it specifically to move my entire shop operation, then just kept it because it was so useful. I gave it a fresh brush paint job recently because it has been faithful to me for 20 years.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Relative to a previous comment in this thread about Towmotor, Cat bought Towmotor at some point and still sold parts in Cat boxes for them last I checked. I drove one as part of my work before I retired and it is still in regular daily use on the job at 71 years old.

 

[autobon7]

Have driven Towmotor, Cat, Doosan, Yale, Toyota, Clark, Daihatsu, Crown, Hyster, and probably a few others I have forgotten. Like most things in life if properly taken care of any of those would be awesome for a homeowner or small business. I prefer Toyota and Clark because I have seen many of those (over the years) that were absolutely neglected and sometimes purposely abused and always came back for more. Any unit that has been taken care of will serve you well. Good luck

 

[cr0ntab]

I finally pulled the trigger.

I ended up with a 1961? Hyster S50E

At least that's what I think it is from the serial number and name plate.

I really wanted one of the smaller clark units, I found two that were going for $2300.

I offered $2500 for this one and they took it, so I figured the extra $200 for a 3 stage mast plus side shift was worth it (not to mention capacity that I'll likely never use haha)

The seller claims the hydraulics were just serviced, I didn't see any leaks around the mast or anything there.

But when I took it off the trailer I saw a small puddle of oil that seemed to come from the engine, so I'll have to inspect that to see what the deal is.

Everything seemed to work well, so I'm excited to give this a little TLC and make it mine!

Engine bay pictures

 

[dr_clyde]

That’s a very fair deal. Hyster makes a fine lift, you’ll be happy with it.

Once you have a forklift you’ll wonder how you ever did anything without one.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The first thing you lift will cost you $2,500. The second lift will be $1,250, the third $625, and so on. Eventually it will be free if you use it enough. I have had mine for 20 years.

 

[cr0ntab]

The first thing you lift will cost you $2,500. The second lift will be $1,250, the third $625, and so on. Eventually it will be free if you use it enough. I have had mine for 20 years.

I love the thinking, ya'll are enablers!

 

[iagsxr]

I finally pulled the trigger.

I ended up with a 1961? Hyster S50E

At least that's what I think it is from the serial number and name plate.

I really wanted one of the smaller clark units, I found two that were going for $2300.

I offered $2500 for this one and they took it, so I figured the extra $200 for a 3 stage mast plus side shift was worth it (not to mention capacity that I'll likely never use haha)

The seller claims the hydraulics were just serviced, I didn't see any leaks around the mast or anything there.

But when I took it off the trailer I saw a small puddle of oil that seemed to come from the engine, so I'll have to inspect that to see what the deal is.

Everything seemed to work well, so I'm excited to give this a little TLC and make it mine!

Engine bay pictures

Looks like a nice sized machine. I don't think it will take you long to appreciate the side shift and three-stage mast.

I'm not familiar with Hyster so I looked up the specs. Your machine was built from 1975-1987 so you probably have a 1981 there.

 

[cr0ntab]

So I had to spend a little more on TLC than I would've have liked but so be it.

When I got this thing home I started looking around at the motor. There was LOTS of gunk and grease on the motor and there was water being flung around when the unit was running.

I also noticed that the parking brake was VERY iffy, sometimes the lift would get stuck in neutral and I'd have to fiddle with the parking brake to get it to move.

Part 1

After some examination I noticed that the back side of the upper radiator hose was leaking, so I bought a replacement.

When I took it off I noticed that the thermostat housing was toast (likely the root cause of the leak) the previous owner cinched down on the hose clamp (no doubt to "fix" the leak) so much that it ripped the hose.



While I was in there I noticed that the previous owner used water instead of coolant in this motor and there was a lot of debris and other **** in the hose and thermostat housing.

I opted to replace the entire setup. The "forklift" version of the thermostat housing was $180!!! However, I figured out that this motor was used in a '69 Chevy Nova, so cross referencing parts I found the same housing for $15 with gasket

• I replaced some worn out vacuum lines
• Replugged a few vacuum lines that had fallen out
• Installed new PCV valve
• Installed an actual oil cap
• Topped off the radiator with coolant.

I put it all back together hoping for the best, but sadly there was still water flinging everywhere

Part 2

With the hose no longer leaking I was able to see that there was a slow drip from the water pump pulley, well I guess I need to replace that too....

"Forklift" version was $80, chevy nova version was $30 with gasket

While I waited for that to come in I continued to degrease the motor, I went through tons and tons of degreaser and brake cleaner to get it somewhat manageable.



I saw that the valve/rocker cover was leaking so I also ordered a new gasket for that.

There was more rust on the rockers than I would have liked (probably due to moisture from not having an oil cap) but things seemed? to be in decent enough shape.





This time I ended up

• Installing a new water pump
• Installed a new lower radiator hose
• Dumped all the radiator water and filled with 50/50 coolant
• New oil filter/drain screw and oil change
• Lots and lots and lots of degreaser and cleaning

When I fired it up again, no more water woo hoo!!

But this time I noticed that I was leaking a fair amount of oil from the valve cover.

I think I ended up tightening it too much, I've never used a cork gasket and my guess is that I pinched it because I can see oil bubbling up from the screws

I have a new gasket on order, I'll try to be a little less caveman on the bolts.

The lift seems to run great, in the process of cleaning all the **** out of the engine I also managed to fix some electrical issues???

All of the warning/indicator lights turn on when the key, the temperature gauge now works, and my annoying parking brake neutral issue is gone!

I'm excited to finally start getting some use out of this thing!!

 

[cr0ntab]

Also, I looked into new tires for this thing - wow VERY pricey.

I got 3 quotes:

$1500
$1250
$1300

to replace all 4

I think I'm definitely going to drive the wheels off of this thing before putting new ones on....

 

[LopezBart]

I think I ended up tightening it too much, I've never used a cork gasket and my guess is that I pinched it because I can see oil bubbling up from the screws

Easy on the torque. Some PermaTex Hi-Tack works well as a sealer on the downhill side, and oil on the uphill side so you can remove the cover.

 

[Equipt_Marketplace]

Pick the forklift from the building and load, not the bargain. Confirm actual load weight and center, required lift height, lowered mast height, overhead clearance, aisle width, door height, floor capacity, indoor ventilation, ramp grade, tire type, charger or fuel storage, and local service support. On a used unit, test it cold and hot with a safe rated load; inspect mast channels, chains, rollers, carriage, forks, steering, brakes, hydraulics, leaks, tires, hours, safety devices, and battery health if electric. A qualified forklift technician and trained operator should verify safety and condition.

 

[IndyGarage]

Pick the forklift from the building and load, not the bargain. Confirm actual load weight and center, required lift height, lowered mast height, overhead clearance, aisle width, door height, floor capacity, indoor ventilation, ramp grade, tire type, charger or fuel storage, and local service support. On a used unit, test it cold and hot with a safe rated load; inspect mast channels, chains, rollers, carriage, forks, steering, brakes, hydraulics, leaks, tires, hours, safety devices, and battery health if electric. A qualified forklift technician and trained operator should verify safety and condition.

It's good advice, but that's advice for someone buying a lift for industrial use.

A DIYer is the 3rd owner of a pretty clapped out lift. engines squeal, brakes don't work well, and hydraulic seals drip. A trained operator isn't used to operating a 30 year old machine and will always say it's junk, same with a qualified forklift technician.

I've bought, fixed and sold several of them. When I get them the brakes rarely work. they need a couple new hydraulic hoses. The tires and paint looks like it's been through a war. But they usually run and work.

I would say pay attention to the hydraulics, the transmission and the brakes. If the engine runs, it can be tuned up. The tires usually work even if they look ugly. The exterior panels can be beaten straight and repainted. If the hydraulics leak all over, then it can be expensive to fix cylinders and replace hoses - but it's possible. The brakes aren't really complex, they can be fixed, but the machines are pretty heavy to lift and work on. If it's got a bad transmission, I would suggest walking away, as the entire machine is basically built around a transaxle.

 

[OccupantRJ]

When the wheels need to be removed I lift mine with wood blocks. Tilt the mast all the way to the rear, place blocks as high as possible under the forward lower edge of the mast, then tilt forward. It will lift the front wheels. To lift the rear I use a bottle jack in a pocket underneath the pin hitch on the counterweight. When I needed tires the local tire shop installed a full set of Chinese import 12 ply on the wheels I carried in for $280 ten years ago. They had installed the same basic tire on the former workplace forklift at that time and they are still in use daily. I keep my lift in ready to use condition, but rarely does it move more than about 100 feet at a time. Picture is from 2024 after I brush painted it.

 

[matt_i]

Pick the forklift from the building and load, not the bargain. Confirm actual load weight and center, required lift height, lowered mast height, overhead clearance, aisle width, door height, floor capacity, indoor ventilation, ramp grade, tire type, charger or fuel storage, and local service support. On a used unit, test it cold and hot with a safe rated load; inspect mast channels, chains, rollers, carriage, forks, steering, brakes, hydraulics, leaks, tires, hours, safety devices, and battery health if electric. A qualified forklift technician and trained operator should verify safety and condition.

At least AI got to make a response