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Forklift outer mast cylinder removal

gearhead1

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Oct 14, 2013
Messages
1,935
Location
NC
Just bought a Cat TC30 forklift. Got it for a song because one of the outer lift cylinders is pouring out fluid from the gland.

I’m trying to understand how to remove it and do so safely. I found this thread from a google search but found nothing on GJ searches, couldn’t even find this one. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228647

Can anyone explain this better or have pics/video?
 
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JamesW84

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Jul 13, 2015
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827
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Springfield, MO
Not sure about the removal, but to get the gland nut off, you might find a Gland Nut Wrench/tool is helpful. Way better on the gland nut than a hammer and chisel, or whatever some guys use, although many do it that way.

As an aside, for better luck searching GarageJournal.com (or any website), go to Google and use this method:

https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/how-to-do-a-google-site-search#sm.0000qpebxnls0dr3xdy1sk9h4rtmc

GarageJournal's search is not good for me, but using this method really helps
 

natejohn

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Joined
May 27, 2017
Messages
31
Location
Vancouver, BC
Do you have any pictures of it? Count the mast channels. How many are there? I'm not familiar with the model personally but am a HD mechanic.

Usually it's pretty simple, just by blocking up the carriage, removing the chains and cross-head and unbolting the cylinder itself it comes right out. Judging by the pictures I googled it may not be quite that easy but if you toss up a few pictures I may be able to get an idea.
 
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Bockscar

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Nov 28, 2017
Messages
535
Location
The Great State of Ohio
Lift it up and block the first set of rails that went up ( 4x4 work great) and relieve the pressure on the cylinder....the chains and hydraulic lines should slacking....probably have to remove the pulleys.....probably a couple bolts on the bottom and a nut on the top cylinder ....pretty easy to do...
.....I just reread your post....the outer lifts raise up for the second stage....kind of the same thing....just need to block the rails that they lift....you may want to chain up the carriage as well....it has been a minute since I have worked on a lift truck.....just going by memory without being there.....blocks and chains are your friends
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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gearhead1

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NC
Thanks guys, got home from work too late today, but will take some pics tomorrow.

There are three cylinders on the mast, it self, one in the center and two outside near the rails. The two outside near the rails are not the tilt cylinders, nor the side shift cylinders. The two outside cylinders are about 5’ tall and about 2” in diameter.

I did see a roll pin on the rod of the two outer cylinders after it passes what I think is called the cross-head.
 
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gearhead1

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Pics. These were from the seller, I’ll take better ones tomorrow.
 

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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,822
Location
SE Michigan
My experience in rebuilding Hysters and Clarks is this.

In my opnion you need the special tools (e.g. not hammer and chisel). A hook spanner is one place to start, but sometimes that's not enough. I spent considerable time machining special tools to engage all 4 of the slots in the cylinder caps with a long lever arm so I could open the caps without damage.

I bought all of my seals from Hercules (formerly Hercules Bulldog) and they wouldn't sell direct to me, so I used Motion Industries as basically a pass-thru.

If some of the seals are bad its likely they are *all* of the same age and bad. So even if you fix one issue there can be others.

I used .010" shim stock wrapped into a "funnel" to get seals nested into bores. The conundrum is they usually have to pass an internal thread which would just chew up the seal. The telescoping mast cyl on the Clark was the most challenging, I had to machine these small bands of either PVC pipe or a brazed piece of metal pallet strapping to pre-compress the U-cups so they could be slid into the bores.

It was a challenging process, a lot of labor, but the parts cost is minimal, everything is dry now and hopefully good for a long time. Be really careful with the mast when disassembling it..there are shear/crush/pinch points that aren't obvious when everything is normally assembled but can quickly become a guillotine if heavy parts of it suddenly fall down. Typical C-clamps and 2x wood blocking are your friends.

Forgot to mention its worthwhile looking at the rod choming, you really don't want rusty spots or flakes as those are like knives or sandpaper tearing up the seals. A ding is OK as long as its smooth, you can use a diemaker's stone (start with like hard Arkansas if no others are available) to carefully polish (and it will be a dulled polish from the mirror chrome) down any edges which catch your fingernail. Rusty spots are more problematic, they can be smoothed for awhile but eventually will rust again and start the process over. Rod rechroming is possible but expensive and sometimes its easier/cheaper to engage a cylinder shop to make new rods from chromed shaft stock.
 
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Bockscar

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Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
535
Location
The Great State of Ohio
My experience in rebuilding Hysters and Clarks is this.

In my opnion you need the special tools (e.g. not hammer and chisel). A hook spanner is one place to start, but sometimes that's not enough. I spent considerable time machining special tools to engage all 4 of the slots in the cylinder caps with a long lever arm so I could open the caps without damage.

I bought all of my seals from Hercules (formerly Hercules Bulldog) and they wouldn't sell direct to me, so I used Motion Industries as basically a pass-thru.

If some of the seals are bad its likely they are *all* of the same age and bad. So even if you fix one issue there can be others.

I used .010" shim stock wrapped into a "funnel" to get seals nested into bores. The conundrum is they usually have to pass an internal thread which would just chew up the seal. The telescoping mast cyl on the Clark was the most challenging, I had to machine these small bands of either PVC pipe or a brazed piece of metal pallet strapping to pre-compress the U-cups so they could be slid into the bores.

It was a challenging process, a lot of labor, but the parts cost is minimal, everything is dry now and hopefully good for a long time. Be really careful with the mast when disassembling it..there are shear/crush/pinch points that aren't obvious when everything is normally assembled but can quickly become a guillotine if heavy parts of it suddenly fall down. Typical C-clamps and 2x wood blocking are your friends.

Forgot to mention its worthwhile looking at the rod choming, you really don't want rusty spots or flakes as those are like knives or sandpaper tearing up the seals. A ding is OK as long as its smooth, you can use a diemaker's stone (start with like hard Arkansas if no others are available) to carefully polish (and it will be a dulled polish from the mirror chrome) down any edges which catch your fingernail. Rusty spots are more problematic, they can be smoothed for awhile but eventually will rust again and start the process over. Rod rechroming is possible but expensive and sometimes its easier/cheaper to engage a cylinder shop to make new rods from chromed shaft stock.
As I have said before....it has been a while....probably twenty plus years but if I remember correctly there is a set of tools that you can buy that are sleeves for installing the piston seals without damaging them going past the threads.... cannot remember whta they would be called

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jdcompman

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Oct 2, 2008
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658
Location
South Dakota

Mbsk01

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Dec 9, 2016
Messages
66
Location
Quinlan, TX
Extend forks as high as possible. Use a solid chain to chain up mast, once done right, when you lower the forks, the mast will drop a bit and the carriage will fall to its lowest point in its travel.
Remove the retention hardware from the top of the outer cylinders. Remove hydraulic lines from the bottom of the cylinders. At that point, the shaft should lower into the cylinder (may need to push down by hand). Once they are all the way compressed, you should be able to lift them out of the mast ( a 2nd person is helpful).
 

Sommech7498

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Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
71
unless you want to reseal the piston leave the cylinder in the truck and just remove the gland and repack.
 
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