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Found some old wood chisels

Stillgottimefor1

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Did some reading and quickly disappeared down a rabbit hole for my entire lunch break. The Kraeuter and the Davies have been mentioned here and there. My questions are: are they really old? Other than grinding the dangerous mushrooming off the end of the longer one is there a reason not to use them? Should these go to a ‘display only ‘. Phase of life?6E7B67F7-BFDC-460F-BBB6-4EE3795DA893.jpegA6DACBBE-BFBB-4E44-8B79-17EFE3AAE70B.jpeg
 
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Stillgottimefor1

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I only just now noticed that I posted the photos upside down 🙃…sorry. A reference in Alloy Artifacts (sometimes right) calls the Kraeuter a wood chisel… I don’t know, never owned or used any before, I’m a metal wrangler, don’t mess with organic stuff much.076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg
 
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Stillgottimefor1

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I only just now noticed that I posted the photos upside down 🙃…sorry. A reference in Alloy Artifacts (sometimes right) calls the Kraeuter a wood chisel… I don’t know, never owned or used any before, I’m a metal wrangler, don’t mess with organic stuff much.076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg
 

woody 73

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Very interesting wood chisels, you have there.

Some more information for you on this nice wet night.

 

crguy

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I only just now noticed that I posted the photos upside down 🙃…sorry. A reference in Alloy Artifacts (sometimes right) calls the Kraeuter a wood chisel… I don’t know, never owned or used any before, I’m a metal wrangler, don’t mess with organic stuff much.076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg076C8506-872A-4DEA-8FD2-C07093EE32D4.jpeg
Several companies made those all steel wood chisels. Made for rough work where you can really pound on the head without breaking the handle.
 

RTM

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Wonder if the original chisels are symmetrical or asymmetrical. If symmetric, I would think cold chisel. The AA ones are asymmetric, so I could believe wood chisel.

my couple of all steel chisels have all the trappings of a wood chisel, bulbous handle, etc, not just a straight shaft.
 

2oolhound

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Those file handles are owner made wire whippings and they look great! I'd like to see a shot of how the wire ends are terminated. It looks like they are soldered.

I have an older thread on wire whippings here: WIRE WHIPPINGS

Please post some photos of your whippings there. I've also got some more interesting details of whippings I need to add.

The alloy artifacts photo of the chisel shows a light curve of the front shank which is how wood slicks are made (if you hold the tip down flat on a flat surface the handle raises up off the surface). Another interesting thing about slicks is that they most commonly don't have beveled blades, just straight edges. The ones being made today are found both styles (beveled sides and straight sides).
I also have some craftsman all steel wood chisels I'll dig out and post photos of.

I wouldn't hesitate to use them myself.
 
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Stillgottimefor1

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Those file handles are owner made wire whippings and they look great! I'd like to see a shot of how the wire ends are terminated. It looks like they are soldered.

I have an older thread on wire whippings here: WIRE WHIPPINGS

Please post some photos of your whippings there. I've also got some more interesting details of whippings I need to add.

The alloy artifacts photo of the chisel shows a light curve of the front shank which is how wood slicks are made (if you hold the tip down flat on a flat surface the handle raises up off the surface). Another interesting thing about slicks is that they most commonly don't have beveled blades, just straight edges. The ones being made today are found both styles (beveled sides and straight sides).
I also have some craftsman all steel wood chisels I'll dig out and post photos of.

I wouldn't hesitate to use them myself.
I will clean them a little more and take pictures tomorrow evening. Many Thanks for the information..
 

2oolhound

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Thanks for the photos guys, I've never seen mass produced ones like these. A few of the handles don't look like they were turned on a lathe.

I do have one done in this fashion but I've always thought of it as owner made.
 
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MisterEd

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Found this Fujon Chisel and know nothing about it. Do you?
 

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grannyknot

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Most of my wood chisels are just workaday tools, nothing special but I did find this gem at a garage sale a few years back.
A James Swan 1, 1/16", came with this nice leather case. I haven't got around to sharpening the edge yet.
Doesn't appear to have been used much.
 

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Ohio Andy

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Craftsman steel wood chisels
1673764428829.jpeg1673764493556.jpeg

Today I learned that they make (or made) wood chisels that are entirely made of metal. How did I not know that. I expected some other material for the handle. I guess that these are not used for pairing (or similar).
 

RTM

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I guess that these are not used for pairing (or similar
Put two in a box in the dark, see if they pair, and you have little baby chisels later. I don’t expect paring, unless you resharpen them to a different low angle.

Those are definitely made for construction job site abuse, framing, concrete framing (false work)
 

Ohio Andy

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Put two in a box in the dark, see if they pair, and you have little baby chisels later. I don’t expect paring, unless you resharpen them to a different low angle.

Those are definitely made for construction job site abuse, framing, concrete framing (false work)
Thanks, I am more likely to use mine for hand cut dovetails then I cringe when they are used for rough work like that.
 

Ohio Andy

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These would also be used in the loan to the neighbors category.
I actually have a set for that... Now.

Actually I think I have two sets. I had four, but I made nice wooden boxes for them, some of them I'd have rather exotic woods because I had them, and then I gave them to people because even the sets I consider sacrificeable, are very usable. I just require more frequent sharpening and are not as nice to use. Heck, I built a lot of stuff with those cheap sets before I acquired what I consider. Nice chisels... Now I probably own more nice chisels than is reasonable.
 

Ohio Andy

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And perhaps I should mention given that this is posted in the vintage tool section. But although I have some nice new fancy steel, modern expensive chisels, some of my better chisels are very old that I had to rehab
 

Beerhippie

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Y'now how it is sometimes? CRS and all that?

I was digging some stuff out of an overstuffed locker at work today when I found this old tool roll:

54609499926_c3d1034b26_o.jpg

I bought that for $20 at a garage sale years ago, stuck it in the locker, and promptly forgot it.

Here's what's in there:

54609706963_db65afeb14_o.jpg

Full set of Craftsman DL chisels, from 1/4" to 1", apparently unused and unrusted. I'll put an edge on them and put them to work. I can use some rough-duty chisels around the shop.

54608620992_c1261e9955_o.jpg

Socket chisels, L-R:
Lakeside 1/4"
Rockford Greenlee 3/8"
Lakeside 3/8"
Lakeside 3/4"
(Probably Northern King, as below, but ground off) 1 1/4"
Northern King 1 1/4"
Rockford Greenlee 1 1/4"

I guess I know what I'll be doing for a few evenings.....

The only markings on the tool roll:

54609494231_be9f6f4ce7_o.jpg

I'll post more pics when the chisels are cleaned and sharp.
 

Beerhippie

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Now comes the fun part:

54609829223_98c6213457_o.jpg

Re-profiling and sharpening. That jig I have set up is a lifesaver when it comes to chisels and plane blades. It allows me to use my collection of Wicked Edge diamond paddles, ranging from 50-2,200 grit. The 50 makes short work of re-profiling.
 

Ohio Andy

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Now comes the fun part:

54609829223_98c6213457_o.jpg

Re-profiling and sharpening. That jig I have set up is a lifesaver when it comes to chisels and plane blades. It allows me to use my collection of Wicked Edge diamond paddles, ranging from 50-2,200 grit. The 50 makes short work of re-profiling.
I bought the chisel / plane blade attachment for my hapstone. Have not tried it yet. I usually establish a hollow grind using my tormek t8. With a hollow grind it is really easy for a hack like me to free hand until the hollow is mostly gone, them back to the Tormek.

Now I am ready for when I don't want to hollow grind or pull out my other jigs...

Will be interested to see how your high works.

I was never able to flattened backs using the tormek, but apparently with the tarmac you can actually do it on the side of the stone. But I am horrible at that so I always do that manually when it needs to be done.
 

Beerhippie

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I bought the chisel / plane blade attachment for my hapstone. Have not tried it yet. I usually establish a hollow grind using my tormek t8. With a hollow grind it is really easy for a hack like me to free hand until the hollow is mostly gone, them back to the Tormek.

Now I am ready for when I don't want to hollow grind or pull out my other jigs...

Will be interested to see how your high works.

I was never able to flattened backs using the tormek, but apparently with the tarmac you can actually do it on the side of the stone. But I am horrible at that so I always do that manually when it needs to be done.
A Tormek is high on my wish list!

I usually do a double-bevel, starting at 25 degrees until the blade is square and sharp, then adding a 30 degree secondary. The secondary is mostly what gets re-sharpened, until it gets too wide. Using the Tormek for the primary and having it hollow-ground is even better! That makes the secondary easy to establish and should actually cut through wood better than a flat primary.

You should NEVER use the side of a stone! It will wear on the thickness of the stone, which can lead to the stone bursting. That said, I'm sure people have been flattening chisels and plane irons on the side of the stone since rotary grinders were first made, and mostly surviving to tell others not to do it.

Some CBN and diamond wheels have a flat outer side just for this. I want one.
 

Beerhippie

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@Ohio Andy : Here's the jig I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZGHZ79R?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just turned it upside-down in a drill press vise so I can use the narrow WE paddles.

Here's all the goodies, getting ready to flatten the back of the 3/4" Crafty:

54610041340_a11f764a59_o.jpg

Since these chisels haven never been used or sharpened, the hardest part is flattening the back--they sure don't come flat fro the factory. The bevel isn't particularly straight, either, but that takes less metal removal than initial flattening.
 

Ohio Andy

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You should NEVER use the side of a stone! It will wear on the thickness of the stone, which can lead to the stone bursting. That said, I'm sure people have been flattening chisels and plane irons on the side of the stone since rotary grinders were first made, and mostly surviving to tell others not to do it.

Some CBN and diamond wheels have a flat outer side just for this. I want one.
Apparently this is not true of the Tormek stone and it is recommended by Tormek. I am not aware of any other stone for which this is true, but I suppose that it might be for the Tormek knock-offs. I have seen this done in numerous videos, this was the easiest for me to find, but this one is not an official video (and I am too lazy to look-up an official video).


But yes, never ever do this on any other stone, I understand that they can literally explode.

Don't know anything about the CBN. I vaguely remember that maybe a diamond version did, but, I don't own one so never paid much attention to it.
 
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