foundation waterproofing.. Drylok

[willlgord]

I'm getting ready to waterproof and backfill some below grade block. My foundation's dug back into a bank with the back wall about 5' below grade with both sides tapering down to grade at the front. Before I install the drainage pipe and gravel I have to waterproof the block. I have a 5 gallon bucket of UGL Drylok on hand (a neighbor gave it to me) and according to the mfg it should work great.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/UGL-5-ga...ok-Waterproofer-209161/203887569?N=5yc1vZaq3z

The area isn't prone to water drainage problems so I'm thinking it should work all right. Should I also add a membrane of some type?

Any opinions?

 

[kd3pc]

I would not be inclined to use this product, my thoughts would be to use the asphalt/black mastic and a membrane appropriate to the mastic.

Not a fan of drylok going back decades.

I have never had the asphalt/membrane fail.

 

[Burl]

I've used the Drylok a couple times and it has worked great. I used the oil-based kind.

 

[APEowner]

I agree with kd3pc. This not a job you want to do again and an asphalt/membrane system is what's called for here.

 

[BlackTalon]

I would look at a cold-applied urethane. Tremco has a couple good ones:

TREMproof 201/60 - TREMproof® 201/60 is a high-solids, VOC-compliant, modified polyurethane waterproofing membrane.

TREMproof 250GC - TREMproof® 250GC is a rapid-curing, high-solids, VOC-compliant modified polyurethane waterproofing membrane.

(I used 250GC for the concrete foundation on an addition we had built a couple years ago; Also have experience with both membranes on a couple dozen commercial/ institutional projects)

 

[Cyberbear]

I've seen these done in the old days that used hot roofing tar that was sprayed on, then covered with a heavy thickness plastic sheet. The hot tar was thought to better penetrate the porous nature of the block, the plastic was a second barrier of water proofing. I imagine a hot mop roofing company could send out their kettle and do the spraying for you.

 

[boobag]

i'd brush or roll on a rubberized product at a minimum. better to install a sheet product, which wont be effected by cracks.

 

[RivennHewn]

If I remember, Drylok is a negative side product, not a positive side.

I've used it on block, and had the efflorescence push it right off the wall.

There are much better products out there.

 

[willlgord]

Thanks for the replies, I think I'm going to use the asphalt with a few layers of 6mil plastic (alternating asphalt-plastic). I have quite a bit left over from the concrete work. That should stop the water. I don't think this area is really a problem spot for drainage problems anyways but I want to be careful.

 

[jaysberman]

Save the Drylcok for the inside and do as other have said on the outside.

 

[usa#1]

Check with some local companies that water proof foundations and purchase some sheet drain and strip drain products from them. It's so much easier to prevent future problems now than it is to dig it out later and redo.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Look up drain board waterproofing. Click "images".

Make sure you have "weeping tile", covered with a sock, installed and running to your sump pit. In your case, you can run each side of the weep tile to "daylight", further down the hill and skip the sump. Back fill with 3/4"crushed gravel being careful not to damage the weeping tile of\r the drain board.

Yes, this is expensive and time consuming, but if you are partially dug into a hill THIS IS CRITICAL if you want a dry basement !

 

[KELLHAMMER]

I have specifying Tuff n Dri with perimeter piping laid at base of the footing in a layer of crushed stone wrapped in filter fabric for 25 years. Never had a problem.

http://www.tremcobarriersolutions.com/products/default.asp?id=1

Drylok really isn't intended exterior below grade applications. The best way to stop moisture and water penetration is from the outside of the foundation.