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Frame and firewall paint

472scout

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I'm repainting the frame and firewall on my Scout II. I already stripped it to bare metal and will be spraying epoxy primer. What are the more durable single stage paints that can be sprayed with an organic respirator? This is not a show vehicle. It sees lots of hard use and weather so the paint needs to be tough. Satin or semi-gloss black.

I'm using the 3M R-7512ES Professional Half-Mask Organic Vapor respirator and painting in my garage, naturally.
 
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CamarosRus

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May 14, 2009
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Location
Renton, WA (Seattle)
Best Value & Top Quality Epoxy Primer is SPI......bought directly from
Southern Polyurethanes Inc.....shipped directly (FREE) to your address

I cant recommend a specific single stage Black Urethane but you may be happy
with the cosmetic look of the SPI Epoxy and not top coat.
 

Sh40674

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Jan 8, 2014
Messages
1,428
Location
Iowa
i can't recommend a paint to you, but i can say stay away from the summit chassis paint. the stuff you mix. i restored my 79' z28 and used it on the frame and firewall. went on very good, finish was beautiful, but NOT very scratch resistant at all. wasn't happy with it in that aspect. if it was a show car it would be perfect but any road use i'd look elsewhere. i sprayed it just using a doctor style mask and some safety glasses in a makeshift spraybooth made from plastic hanging from the ceiling. didn't worry too much about inhaling it as it didn't take very long at all (subframe car not a full frame)
 

countryroad82

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Kentucky
I would go with a single stage urethane. Should be able to get some mixed at a local jobber and shouldn't cost all that much for a pint.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
Check out "industrial" single stage. I use that on the door car fiberglass bumper. It's mixed 50/50 with thinner and shoots easy. Cheaper because no activator and easy to touch up later. I think the quart of silver I used was about $20. Comes in all colors.
 
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472scout

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Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
1,280
Location
back 40
Best Value & Top Quality Epoxy Primer is SPI......bought directly from
Southern Polyurethanes Inc.....shipped directly (FREE) to your address

I cant recommend a specific single stage Black Urethane but you may be happy
with the cosmetic look of the SPI Epoxy and not top coat.

I've heard good things about SPI. I'm not sure about longevity without a top coat.

i can't recommend a paint to you, but i can say stay away from the summit chassis paint. the stuff you mix. i restored my 79' z28 and used it on the frame and firewall. went on very good, finish was beautiful, but NOT very scratch resistant at all. wasn't happy with it in that aspect. if it was a show car it would be perfect but any road use i'd look elsewhere. i sprayed it just using a doctor style mask and some safety glasses in a makeshift spraybooth made from plastic hanging from the ceiling. didn't worry too much about inhaling it as it didn't take very long at all (subframe car not a full frame)

Thanks, I was actually looking at that paint.

If it's going to see that type of abuse I'd have it powder-coated.

The issue I have with powder coating is that once it chips it's about impossible to do spot repairs.

I would go with a single stage urethane. Should be able to get some mixed at a local jobber and shouldn't cost all that much for a pint.

What Urethanes can be painted without a supplied air mask? Some have isocyanates and some don't?

Check out "industrial" single stage. I use that on the door car fiberglass bumper. It's mixed 50/50 with thinner and shoots easy. Cheaper because no activator and easy to touch up later. I think the quart of silver I used was about $20. Comes in all colors.

Who makes it?
 

BearsFan315

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Jun 12, 2014
Messages
689
Location
Portsmouth, VA
I am using the KBS Coatings Product on my 1929 I am restoring, they offer a LOT of options for various requirements. also they are very helpful and resourceful. call them and ask them anything you want, see what they say. May be able to use Rust Seal and call it a day. just do not get it on you :) unless you have cleaner to remove it. it sticks and seals !!

can buy just the seal, or get the kit for chassis, frames, floor pans, etc...

just used their XTC to coat my exhaust Header. Cured it and now waiting to reinstall.
 
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Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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Urbana, Ohio
I'd use a single stage urethane with a hardener, or go with powder coat. Imron would be great, but if you aren't set up to shoot it, it's not very good for your health.
 

countryroad82

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Mar 18, 2011
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Kentucky
If you're not shooting paint all day every day, a simple face mask is all you need to spray urethane. Wear gloves, a little by sleeve shirt, safety glasses, the usual ppe and you're golden. Safety nazis will punish me for such things but yes the isocynites are bad. You really don't want to go huffing them all the time, but small exposure isn't going to kill you.
 

Rlfd213

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Oct 25, 2015
Messages
238
You can use master series silver for your primer. 3-4 coats then shoot your paint. You'll be happy
 

plout99

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Apr 8, 2012
Messages
288
Location
Ohio
I seconded SPI for a sealer, I have read good things about Tamco paints, I have used Urekem from The Coatings Store and was very pleased with it sprayed a bc/cc metallic last week. The problem with the valspar ag paints is uv resistance they will be half faded out in two years or less. The urethane especially when clear coated will withstand a lot more abuse from the sun, weather etc.
 

dbabicky

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Dec 30, 2012
Messages
874
Location
NE Wisconsin
I agree with the POR 15 !! Very durable and you can top-coat it if you want. Actually if it going to see sunlight it is recommended that you top-coat it. It can turn a grayish shade if left to the sun.
 

Sh40674

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Jan 8, 2014
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Location
Iowa
POR 15 is kind of a go to paint for frames. i don't think you could go wrong with it
 
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