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Frame straightening tools DIY

Mokkun

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2015
Messages
24
Location
Spanaway, WA
I need to make a 8' long T with a 3' leg to pull from.
My hydraulic pulling cylinder can do up to 20 ton and
the long section will be where the load is. I will also add
contact points along the 8' section to spread the load out.

My question is what wall thickness should I be looking for?
I was thinking of using 3x3 steel tube.

I need some help.

Thanks
Sean
 
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bigguns69

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
411
Location
Iowa
Can you post a hand sketch of what you are doing and/or a picture of something that already exists. I can help size it for you but I am not clear on the details.
 

txvwnut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
7,587
Location
Bedford, Texas
Mines made out of 3"x5" 5/16" wall tubing for the upright and two pieces of 2"x4" 1/4" C channel, open sides welded together for the bottom piece. Mine looks like a traditional pulling post with keyhole slots for the tie down chains cut into the bottom piece and I have a sliding mount for my puller cylinder on the upright.
 
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Mokkun

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2015
Messages
24
Location
Spanaway, WA
Well I only need a simple setup of a one time job.
The frame is 7.75mm or 0.30" at the point of the bend.
I got to thinking about how I should draw it and about slapped myself/
Take a 8' long square tube and at the center give or take a bit add a 4'
leg to stabiles to the other half of the frame. Long side goes from front
to the back and the short goes from side to side of the frame.

I will need to make some adjustable standoffs so I can level the thing. I
was thinking 1" threaded rod for the standoff with saddles to help keep it
in place.

The truck is a 2006 F350 that got a bit bent at the point where the radius
arm bracket mounts to the frame. It pushed the lower edge of the frame up
in a twisting motion. I need to be able to get it back to where I can mount a
new bracket so I can remount the front axle assembly. After that is goes to
a frame shop that can handle the finish work with a large machine that can
handle this truck.
 

txvwnut

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Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
7,587
Location
Bedford, Texas
I know it’s been a few days but here’s a shot of mine in action.
 

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Mokkun

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2015
Messages
24
Location
Spanaway, WA
Your making me cry. I miss my Bug.

Anyway here is the fame bend on the truck.
It is behind and not in thee no work zone per the Ford manual.

80-3_e47f2f975886e8fdbabfa9a4780ac533e6611fee.jpg


I did a little pushing on it with the Porta Power. I stopped
when I was seeing some deflection from the upper frame rail.
It did come down some after that but I don't want to bend the
top of the frame to get the lower back in shape. So I will have
to pull down on it from something braced below the truck.
 

fordcragar

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
712
Location
Yakima Wa.
I made mine out of a 5" "I" beam about 40 years ago and it has held up fine. I've never been able to bend it.
 

gearhead1

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
1,935
Location
NC
So if I understand correctly, you put the 8' horizontal part under the vehicle and through various means attach the vehicle to that part, then you put the pulling cylinder on the 3' vertical and attach through various means to do the pulling, correct?

Do you ever use block and tackle to double the mechanical advantage?
 

txvwnut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
7,587
Location
Bedford, Texas
I don’t know that you could get 10 to 20 tons of pulling force by using a block and tackle. Plus with using a block and tackle it will take you away from the area you need to watch while you are doing the pull. With using a port-a-power the pump will allow you to be near the area needing repair so if you have to hammer work it you can do that while making the pull.
 
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Mokkun

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2015
Messages
24
Location
Spanaway, WA
The 3' section is there to keep the 8' section from rolling. The Porta-Power
will be doing the work. Like txvwnut said a block and tackle just would not
the power that a 20 ton hydraulic unit would have. I picked up some square
tube the other day and the 8' section is more like 9'. I now need to pick up
some tubing to make the standoffs with. Once that is done I am ready to do
some pulling. I also had something show up in the mail. Two pulling clamps.
Well really one sill hook good to 3 ton and one C clamp good to 5 ton.
 
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