Getting my garage framed tomorrow. Dimensions are 24w x32d he said I need a header I 16' center because I want to loft the ceiling.g for storage. Can't I just use some versalambs. I don't want a pole in center of garage. He was saying use a better header with the steel beam between two pieces of wood. Is this overkill?? He said garage may start to sag years down the road. I'm adding 14' to exsiting garage. Old dimensions are 24w x 18d if that matters
Framer said i need one!!
- Thread starter bski224
- Start date
BillK
Well-known member
bsk,
Call or find a local company that makes up treuuse and beams. Take them a drawing of what you are doing and ask them if they have something that will span that length without support. At 24ft, you should be able to have trusses made that will allow a load bearing space above, but only the truss manufacturers can tell you for sure. They are the ones you should be asking, not us. Unless someone here actually designs trusses and beams for a living, we are only guessing :
Call or find a local company that makes up treuuse and beams. Take them a drawing of what you are doing and ask them if they have something that will span that length without support. At 24ft, you should be able to have trusses made that will allow a load bearing space above, but only the truss manufacturers can tell you for sure. They are the ones you should be asking, not us. Unless someone here actually designs trusses and beams for a living, we are only guessing :
Will67
Well-known member
I take it you live in an area that does not require engineered drawings to get a building permit? This is the stuff that gets solved way before you drive a nail.
Does my post help you, nope doubt it.
Does my post help you, nope doubt it.
Yeah... the only problem with that is some of us will help even when we don't have a clue what the hell we are talking about.
ishiboo
Well-known member
You really need a beam, or the best would be to switch directions so you only have to span the 24' which you can do with a 14" TGI.
To span 32' unsupported without roof trusses, you would need probably 2' deep or deeper floor trusses and there will still be significant bounce in the center.
To span 32' unsupported without roof trusses, you would need probably 2' deep or deeper floor trusses and there will still be significant bounce in the center.
Yeah... the only problem with that is some of us will help even when we don't have a clue what the hell we are talking about.
Great, now you've done it. All our credibility is reduced to zero and we all have to start over...with engineering stamps
of course you are also correctNewLogik
Well-known member
My garage which is 22 x 31 have a steel H-Beam center of the 31... Ok, this probably not of any help, sorry, but that's how we done that.
darkk
Well-known member
madstat
Well-known member
Not sure exactly whats going on. Are you removing a wall into the addition part of the garage and want to pick up the load with a beam? There are trusses that span 24ft easy so I'm a little confused about what the problem is.
mitusa
Well-known member
Yes. Work shop now is 24w x 18d I'm removing front wall and adding 14' so I will have a 24x32 garage. Going with a 16x8 door. So my framer said we need a post in middle of garage (which is not happening) or a beam in center of garage (16')
My main quest is can I get away with micro lam or do i need a beam with a steel center sandwiched between wo pieces of wood.
My main quest is can I get away with micro lam or do i need a beam with a steel center sandwiched between wo pieces of wood.
Will67
Well-known member
Use 14" deep 360 series TJI 12" oc.
There
There
mitusa
Well-known member
It looks like you have plenty of advice.....but just for my understanding, are you talking about the post being put in the end of the garage in the middle of the garage door? Or, other option, putting a steel beam sandwiched between lumber over the top of the garage door?
OR, running a beam down the center of the barn under the joists of the rafters to help support the upstairs?
bczygan
Well-known member
Let's see. First a couple of questions. What is the existing roof structure? Is it trusses or rafters and ceiling joists?
Does the existing ridge run from the front to back (In other words it is 18' long)?
Are you removing the wall the existing door is in, and that is where the new header will be?
Are you extending the existing ridge or changing the roof configuration or what? Is the new storage attic only in the new area?
What will you store there?
What are the codes for wind and snow loads?
Do you need a permit or engineered drawings?
Does the existing ridge run from the front to back (In other words it is 18' long)?
Are you removing the wall the existing door is in, and that is where the new header will be?
Are you extending the existing ridge or changing the roof configuration or what? Is the new storage attic only in the new area?
What will you store there?
What are the codes for wind and snow loads?
Do you need a permit or engineered drawings?
Kevin C
Well-known member
Three design methods .. Prescriptive, Engineered or git her done.
Prescriptive means following something like the IRC for joist and beam spans. Lots of tables and charts to allow you to figure out how far you can span with what sized lumber and what your allowed loading is. That was how I built my shop. I got my plans signed off by the city in less than an hour. Meets code for earthquake wind and locust. From the charts, I know the load capacity of the attic area as well as the roofs snow capacity.
Engineered is having a licensed pro design it and stamp a set of plans. If you want to do a long unsupported span with storage, engineered is the way to go.
It's also possible for a local lumber yard to design a beam for you....
Git her done typically does not need a permit or an approved set of plans.
Versalambs are best with a cold beer.
Prescriptive means following something like the IRC for joist and beam spans. Lots of tables and charts to allow you to figure out how far you can span with what sized lumber and what your allowed loading is. That was how I built my shop. I got my plans signed off by the city in less than an hour. Meets code for earthquake wind and locust. From the charts, I know the load capacity of the attic area as well as the roofs snow capacity.
Engineered is having a licensed pro design it and stamp a set of plans. If you want to do a long unsupported span with storage, engineered is the way to go.
It's also possible for a local lumber yard to design a beam for you....
Git her done typically does not need a permit or an approved set of plans.
Versalambs are best with a cold beer.
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camarotoolman
Banned
Truss companys will design, build, deliver, and sometimes erect what you need to code with an engineering stamp on it for your permit. No guessing.
wnstwolf
Well-known member
As many have said do the upper area with Attic Trusses. Will be cost effective once you figure labor to stick build and you will not need a beam. I am spanning 22' here in the center and could have gone as far as 24'.
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