Framing end wall on arched metal building

[rsagmuller]

Does anyone know of an existing thread that shows how to wood frame an end wall on a arched metal building. Or, is there anyone that has done one that can give me an idea as to how it's properly done. Photos would be helpful. I've framed plenty of walls, but I'm not sure about the best way to attach to the arches.

 

[Rock knocker]

Got a photo? Can you screw to the structure?

 

[joe.bigham]

I have one I turned into a paint booth
I cemented posts in the ground and ran bolts through the top

 

[rsagmuller]

I haven't put the building up yet, the slab is done, will be putting up this summer. It's a 24x36 SteelMaster A-Style building.

 

[readhead]

Were the ends not included?

 

[rsagmuller]

I ordered it without the end walls so I could custom build them.

 

[txvwnut]

I've got that same building. What I did was use the flanges for the factory end walls and then screwed my wall studs to them then sheet over the flanges with my exterior sheathing before I did my brick work. I've seen some where the builder set the end wall back to the flat rib of the end arch and then screw through the arch into the stud wall. This gives a little overhang for the end wall.

 

[rsagmuller]

Thanks txvwnut.

 

[txvwnut]

Thanks txvwnut.

Your welcome. I had build pics but the computer they were on went **** up.

I will tell you there's about zillion bolts and nuts that you will get to tighten. When you assemble the arches leave them loose until all are up and you have the building square, then you can start the process of bolt tightening.

Did you do a slab with channels for the arches or did you get the commercial arch channels?

 

[rsagmuller]

I got what they call the industrial connectors, they bolt to the slab, and the arches bolt to them. Looked like the best way to go to me. I prepped for the slab myself and hired someone to help with the pour. Incorporating the channels into the slab looked like too much work, especially with having to come back and grout after the building is up.

 

[txvwnut]

I wish I had done the connectors but they either weren't available when I bought my building or the sales rep didn't tell me about them. The reason being is my prints were off on the trough spacing by about 3 inches. How i found out was when I went to plumb the arch legs up I couldn't, get one in and the other was out. My brother and me were just playing tug-o-war with each other. I told an engineer about it and he said it will be fine as I'm not past a certain geomectrical plane. Forming my slab with the troughs wasn't bad at all, I actually like making odd forms for concrete work just don't care for the pouring of it, and grouting wasn't bad either and it really tied the arch walls to slab and put some rigidity to them plus it created a water runoff setup so that it can't sit at the base of the arch. This might be something you may want to consider after you have yours built.

 

[rsagmuller]

Yes, I'll have to see how well these base connectors drain. Your building is very tall! Mine is only 13' at the peak. I poured the slab last fall, and I'm anxious to get back to work on it. Right now I'm working side jobs on weekends to earn money for materials for the building. I plan on putting a roll-up door in the front wall, front and rear entry doors and maybe a couple of windows. It's going up on 5 acres I bought that's a two hour drive from where I live now, so all I have is Sundays and vacation days to accomplish anything. I may start a garage build thread here.

 

[txvwnut]

Yeah my building is 20ft tall as I am inside city limits and they only allowed 500sqft on the ground, but did allow to be 25ft high which I needed as I was moving from a rented 3000sqft shop to this behind my house.

I will admit when that first arch went up I imediatly thought "what the hell have I gotten myself into", but after about 8 hours of work I had a roof and two completed walls which you can't get with a lot of other building options.

 

[Archer52]

Guys,

I have a steel arch building similar to the ones you are discussing. Mine is a U.S. Buildings A model (25' x 36'). The concrete is down and the steel is up and attached using the industrial connector option. I'm still stumped as to how I can/should attach wooden end walls to the steel. The space between the last set of bolts and the end finish pieces is 3 1/2 inches - obviously too tight for a 2 x 4 frame plus OSB, paper and T1-11. I had thought about the idea of moving the end walls back to the first flat of the last and first arches (leaving the overhang) as mentioned, but that would mean that the end walls would be only attached to the slab, not to the foundation...I don't think the building inspector will allow that. I thought that I understood txvwnut's solution until I saw the picture. I thought that he was screwing the 2 x 4 frame to what I call the "end finish pieces" (the L-shaped edge pieces) then attaching OSB, paper, etc to the frame (i.e., beyond the end of the building) and then adding new end finishing pieces over the final exterior. I can see doing this with the brickwork that he was doing, but surely there must be a simpler way to just attach a 2 X 4 wall.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated?

Thanks in advance.

 

[txvwnut]

What I did was used the end trim pieces in reverse order to allow for the stud work to sit behind it and then attached the osb to the outside of that sandwiching it between the metal between the studs and the osb. If you notice your trim pieces are actually two different sizes one for inside and one for outside. I don't remember which is which as it has been a few years since I put mine up but I believe the shorter flange one goes towards the outside and the longer flange one goes to the inside. What I ended up with when all the framing and sheathing was done was a wall that sat about and inch back from the arch lip. This left me enough room for my brick work to end up just flush with the end of the arch. See the brick I used is called face brick and it's only a half inch thick but still a dimensional brick sized and since it is put up using mortar it quantified my city codes for the building to have masonry on all four exterior walls. I actually played with this a bit till I figured it as I was just going to put the stock end clip setup in as the factory required but wasn't impressed with what I was getting.
If you are wondering about the strength of the wall this building has already seen a strong F1 tornado.

 

[Archer52]

txvwnut,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. My initial confusion was based on the fact that while my building is similar to yours, the finish kit for the ends contains only the outer trim pieces, not the inner ones that you used to attach your framing, osb, etc. and doesn't appear to have a way to attach something similar (the company obviously wants customers to buy their metal end walls). That's been the source of my frustration. I've been trying to figure out how to attach the framing without those pieces and haven't found a good solution as of yet.

 

[djjsr]

Google "barrel truss" and look at the images. You may get some ideas.

 

[txvwnut]

Archer,

What you might look at doing is making a nailer block that fits into open lip area and use the sealing washer type metal building screws to attach that to the building and then nail/screw the end wall framing to that.

Have you contacted U.S. Buildings to see what just the end wall flanges would cost?

 

[TurnipTruck]

I built a 24x60 S model. I used the steel end kits from the outboard sides in and down to a 2x10-framed overhead garage door. Then I foamed the piss out of it and finished with plywood on the inside of the end walls.

 

[Dalmech]

txvwnut,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. My initial confusion was based on the fact that while my building is similar to yours, the finish kit for the ends contains only the outer trim pieces, not the inner ones that you used to attach your framing, osb, etc. and doesn't appear to have a way to attach something similar (the company obviously wants customers to buy their metal end walls). That's been the source of my frustration. I've been trying to figure out how to attach the framing without those pieces and haven't found a good solution as of yet.

I just finished assembling my Steelmaster 30X38X14 A model building. I bought the back end wall but not the front.
My building came with the outer trim pieces like yours and I'm trying to figure out how to build the front wall too. My idea is to build a free standing front end wall, Outside the building with 6X6 post concreted into the ground and use a heavy L shaped bracket around the outside. I've Google images but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I have some HardiPlank siding left over from building my house and plan on using that.
Does anyone have any detailed pics of their framing?
The barrel truss seems like a good idea but a pain to build.

 

[txav8r]

I know the thread is about a year old now since the last post. I just joined the forum today when I found this post searching for end walls on a metal building. Ironically, I have an A20-18 Futuresteel building that we just finished building the arches last week. I am in the process of deciding how to construct my end walls and this thread was a perfect discussion on just what I need to complete. My building looks pretty much like txvwnut's building as an A style building. Mine is 20'W x 44'L x 18'H. I also ordered the industrial base plate connectors and did not order end walls. My building came with the "trim angle" pieces that some of you have been referred to as the "end finish pieces". In talking to the tech support at the factory, they tell me those are just trim angles, and you may or may not have the inner trim angle with your kit...I do not, I have just the outer trim angle. These are just trim pieces and not intended to be tied to the end walls, rather, just to trim over the end wall to prevent weather from running inside the wall. I was told that you use angle, tied back to the flat portion of the building between the ribs of the end arch. You install this angle perpendicular to the arch and in multiple locations, using the same bolts with washers, that came with the building. You have to drill holes for them, and add enough angle to brace the wall securely, but the wall only supports itself and is not load bearing for the building.

My question...since my building is only 20'2" wide, and since my slab is set with a drop of 12'3" for the overhead arage door of 14'T x 12'W, it leaves me with less room between the garage door and the side of the building, than a standard 3070 man door (walk thru door) will give me. I need that walk door. I am searching for a 2770 or thereabouts to give me walk thru access. Any additional discussion on framing the end wall for both the garage door as well as the walk door would be very much appreciated.

 

[readhead]

Talk to the garage door guy about a door in the overhead door. We have one in our shop and it works very well. We did not have any place for a walk door and this solved the problem.