Framing help with man door and garage door

[sansert]

HI I am in the process of building a 24 W by 28 D garage. It will be framed and not block walls. We will have a 36" x 80" steel entry/man door on left side and a 16' x 8' garage door in front. Guy has come and done my footers and is going to be putting down 2 rows of block tomorrow but I need help in figuring where to tell him to plan for the doors. Slab will be floating. I know I can look up the rough opening on the man door but would additional width be needed for the framing? On the garage door itself, would he just need to leave make the opening 16' plus an additional 3" for the door jambs on each side? Additional framing would just be done on top of the block wall correct? Just want to make sure he gets the blocks layed out right and my framer doesnt have to cut blocks out later. Thanks

 

[Homerr]

You have the garage door opening width correct, 16'-3". Typically the 3" is for the 2x trim jamb to drop down to whatever the slab height ends up being. Outside of those 2x trims then usually there are double trimmers and then a king stud. Higher loading may mean beefier than double 2x trimmers (in my area single 2x trimmers are usually used at 8-9' wide doors).

Portal frames are a great idea too, I'd suggest a double sided one on yours with a continuous header from corner to corner.
https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/framing/the-portal-frame-option_o

 

[RocketScott]

For the man door add 2" for the jamb and 3" for framing. So 41" for a 36" door

What Homerr said about the OH door is correct

 

[kbs2244]

Get the install directions for your door.
They will tell you in detail and should be online.

 

[bad_idea]

I am wrapping up my garage build now. 38" for a 36" door. 9' 3" for a 9' door.

 

[sansert]

SO I seem to have a couple different answers on the man door. Would my jack and king studs actually be nailed to my bottom plate which is sitting on top of the blocks? Then I would just have a couple door jambs 1" on each side of rough opening so if that is the case them I dont need 41" but 38"? If door instructions call for 38.25" rough opening width how much if any would I add for adjustment?Thanks everybody

 

[spudley]

I just did exactly what you're doing and left 41" between blocks. I put trimmers inside the block on a small section of PT plate. Had a finished RO of 38".
Last week I slid a 36" framed door in like a glove. Make sure everything is square and plumb and you'll be drinking beer in 20 minutes.
Homerrs got the big doors right on.

 

[bad_idea]

I just installed my 36" entry door last weekend. 38" between blocks. Jack and king studs nailed to bottom plate on top of block. Read the directions for the door, you don't need to fasten the frame below the bottom hinge of the door. Instructions for my door called for a 38" RO, that left 1/2" of wiggle room to shim. If the directions say to leave a 38.25" RO, then do that. (Keep in mind I am not a carpenter, but my door does close)

Talk to your concrete contractor and framing contractor. My concrete guy was the one that told me RO sizes I needed. I did the framing myself and had never framed before.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If you go wider than 38” RO for the man door, you will have exposed framing members at the lower corners after the door is installed being that the framing will be wider than the trim on the lower section of door along the block, assuming you are using a narrower trim such as brick molding. You can make it wider than 38”, but plan for the trim you are going to use and the end appearance and weather sealing. Your trim will also come into play on the garage door lower corners. I like my trim to overlap onto the block.

 

[RocketScott]

I said 41" because I like to have the trimmer to all the way down to the slab for two reasons

It gives more to nail trim to than just the jamb. I usually trim out with 5/4x4 on the sides

Most of our foundations are 8" thick so that extra 1-1/2" lets the door open more than if the opening was right next to the jamb

 

[spudley]

I went 41" but as OccupantRJ stated, I did use 1x4 cedar trim around my doors, so no exposed framing members.
I believe the OP said he's on two courses of block = 16", which means he may need some type of anchors through the lower door frame into block at 38" wide.

 

[bad_idea]

RocketScott brings up a point about the door itself worth considering. My walls are 2x6 and they set on two rows of block. I special ordered a door with a casing the depth of the block. Very minimal additional cost. $200 at Lowe's. My door opens 180 degrees against the wall. If you get a door for a 2x6 wall then the door will open 90 degrees or so. I laid a 2x4 on the inside face of the walls on each side of the door to attach the inside of the frame to.