framing high wall
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Bevis
Well-known member
what type of roof is on it??
the building is a concrete tilt up with wood beams and sheathing for a flat roof. Part of the wall lines up with some of this, part of the wall does not. The wall does have 4 90deg turns in it and is connected to existing walls at each end.
jake00
Well-known member
scissor lift
thats pretty much a given. I am trying to find out how to get the height. Do I build a 12ft wall and another 8ft wall on top of it? Or?
Bevis
Well-known member
I was thinking build two walls one upon the other. Reason I asked about the roof, wanted to see if it was something other than flat, i.e. dome.
nate379
Banned
I'd say because a 2x4 that is 20 foot long would be a slinky!
jake00
Well-known member
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
irisservice
Well-known member
metal studs......we used them to do that exact same think will see if i can snap a pic monday...
Not if you tie the studs together. But any way you cut it, you should split up the wall cause 20 foot of anything will be hairy but i'd rather it be light
wakeboarder311
Well-known member
metal studs all the way
I think the real question is how long is any one panel of your square going to be?
The 20 foot height will not be much of a problem if the panels are short left to right.
(By short, I mean less than 20 feet. So the wall is taller than it is long.)
That should keep it stiff.
But if the panels are going to be longer, I think you will need diagonals down from the ceiling at a 45 to keep it from wiggling.
Or interior walls to brace it.
Either way, I would X brace it across the horizontal joints.
Probably multiple times.
The 20 foot height will not be much of a problem if the panels are short left to right.
(By short, I mean less than 20 feet. So the wall is taller than it is long.)
That should keep it stiff.
But if the panels are going to be longer, I think you will need diagonals down from the ceiling at a 45 to keep it from wiggling.
Or interior walls to brace it.
Either way, I would X brace it across the horizontal joints.
Probably multiple times.
Junkman
Well-known member
I would break it up into 2 8' sections, and a 4' section. That way, you will have fire stops, in case a fire should start at the ground floor area. If not, the 20' hight will act like a chimney, and possibly take out your roof before the fire department got there. The last 4' high section will be easy to handle. You will need some good ties to hold the wall to the sides also.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
In NZ we ALWAYS use horizontal pieces betweem the studs. (nogs/dwangs)
Creates a very strong grid.
Put in every 30 inches in height. Doesn't the building code there require this?
.
boiler7904
Well-known member
20' Metal studs is the way to go. Commercial framing / drywall supply houses will probably stock them. They should also be able to select the correct size for your application.
Don't forget to include wood blocking if you plan on hanging cabinets or shelves.
Framing it in two or more stacked pieces with wood creates weak hinge points where the wall wants to fail.
Don't forget to include wood blocking if you plan on hanging cabinets or shelves.
Framing it in two or more stacked pieces with wood creates weak hinge points where the wall wants to fail.
rinny_tin_tin
Well-known member
It would be easiest with 2x6 x 20-ft with double top plate as you say and staggered blocking. I wouldn't split the wall into two and the simpson ties do nothing for rigidity. If you have room, build the wall on the deck and hoist up with some mules. You can even split the wall up into sections if you have limited room or mules - such that you will have sistered studs.
Pics show how I did it - height of studs are 18 feet 2x6 @ 8 OC. I used a lift to get it started and then manned diags to finish. Any sheathing you use will stop wobble.
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rinny_tin_tin
Well-known member
We call them blocking and they are usually required at 8 feet spacing to serve as nailers for sheathing
the simpson ties I am talking about are 1-1/2" wide straps that are 3 feet (or something like that) long. They are used to strap the studs on the top wall to the studs on the bottom wall to get rid of the hinge effect.
I think metal studs will be out on this due to cost. There now may be a mezzanine built which would also get rid of my tall wall problem, just frame it like a house...
rinny_tin_tin
Well-known member
I'm not sure which simpson tie you mean - but if you mean the straps like here:
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hrs-st-ps-hst-lsta.asp
...these won't stop hinging. They'll hold down the header to the stud...but that is it. If you are going to split the material, you will need something that will resist and translate shear forces - sort of like what would happen if you fastened angle iron across the joint. However, even then, you would have to go to extra trouble to fasten the device. I still think the easiest solution is to use uncut lumber for the whole height and if you want - use extra blocking to limit side to side movement. Of course, if you could also anchor the top of the wall to the ceiling, you would be sitting in the cat bird's seat.
tcianci
Well-known member
The metal stud solution seems like the best. They are lightweight, straight and can easily be handled by one guy WEARING STOUT GLOVES. don't ask me why I know. One thing that hasn't been mentioned along with the metal studs is the lightweight channel that snaps into the knockouts of the studs. It makes for super rigid metal stud wall. They go horizontally through the wall and tie the studs together. Any drywall supplier can fill you in on them. Wood in 20 ft lengths is hard to work with even if you find the quality you need for a nice flat wall.
