Framing in a basement

[xscorex]

I read so many different ways to do this its making my head spin! New project is re-finishing a basement room. 2 walls are outside walls. 1 wall is underground at least the yard slopes from the top down to the bottom. The old owners had used liquid nails to put up foam board, then glued paneling onto that, and not very well either. There is moisture becuase the paneling warped all over the place. So how should I start? any DIY websites I can check out?

Here's what I was thinking.

glue foamboard to wall
frame it out, not sure what size framing to use 2x4 or something not as wide. then more insulation? then plastic vapor barrier over that, then the drywall.

should I paint the wall with drylock or some kind of sealer? what about the floor? Planning on doing bamboo engineered flooring. room is about 12 x 10, really small.

 

[ratdoggy]

When I did mine I used metal studs and left a 3" airspace between the wall and the basement wall. I figured that any moisture that found it's way back there.When I was done you didn't even need to run the heat unless it was very cold out.

 

[ErickForest]

I just read about this yesterday in a handyman magazine. You need to attach rigid closed-cell insulation about 1-1/2" thick directly to the foundation and then seal the seams. Then build your wall using 2X4 framing or whatever you plan to use. Attach drywall. Do not use a vapor barrier behind the drywall. The article stated that the added R-value you gain might not be worth the mess if the insulation ever gets wet.

I don't know about the dry-loc. I have heard that it is good and bad.

 

[Ezzie]

Best solution I have found is to stud frame the walls with 2"x4" studs floor to ceiling leaving a space of approx. 2" between the wall and the back side of the studs. Then have a contractor spray on urethane foam to a depth of approx. 4" floor to ceiling. Drywall cover and your done - no vapour barrier needed. Gives an R value of approx. 21.

For the floors, lay down sheets of 1" foam board (RSI 5.5), tape the seamswith Tuck Tape, then sheet with 5/8" T&G plywood over that. Just use a few tapcon screws here and there to hold the sheets down in areas where things are not completely level so the plywood doesn't bounce when you walk across it. Then cover with the flooring of your choice.

 

[haggis]

When I finished the laundry room area of our basement I used the rigid foam board on the walls, left a 2" space, and then framed with 2x4 studs.

For the floors I used 2'x2' wooden tiles that have plastic channels underneath them to allow any moisture or water to still drain to the sump pit. The are tongue and groove and go together very easily, I can't remember who makes them but I got them at Home Depot.

I then put some vct tile on top of the wooden floor tiles and it has held up with no problems.

 

[xscorex]

thanks for the info guys. seems like a 2" gap is recommended. now, I have two windows in this room on the wall that is below grade. If you can picture it in your mind, the room is long and is almost all below grade on one end and then on the other end its at grade. there are two windows almost at ground level in the middle of the room. now if I do foam, a 2" gap and then 2x4s that leaves a 6" gap from the wall to the window sill, will this look funly, I m assuming Id just frame it in with some wood right

 

[haggis]

thanks for the info guys. seems like a 2" gap is recommended. now, I have two windows in this room on the wall that is below grade. If you can picture it in your mind, the room is long and is almost all below grade on one end and then on the other end its at grade. there are two windows almost at ground level in the middle of the room. now if I do foam, a 2" gap and then 2x4s that leaves a 6" gap from the wall to the window sill, will this look funly, I m assuming Id just frame it in with some wood right

I had to do the same thing with my laundry room window. Including the window sill, I had to fill out about 8". I ripped down some poplar 1x10 to make a nice frame around the window, but I still haven't gotten around to painting it yet

 

[Keep]

First thing you need to do is find the moisture source. No point in framing out a wall if you will just have to tear it out again to fix a leak.

I just framed it out with 2x4's. Don't forget the "gasket" under the bottom plate, something about wood and concrete not liking each other. I used the "safe and sound" insulation in the walls and ceiling, makes things a little quieter in the room above if you are down there.

If I was to do it over again.

I would insulate the floor with 1 inch foam, 5/8 OSB over top and screwed into the concrete, then build the walls up from there, I did this in the upper portion of my basement and you can really feel a difference in the winter.

 

[Amitygravel]

I work for a construction company that only does renovation and remodeling. The Boss swears by blown in cellulose and expanding foam. The foam that has been used on our projects is a soybean based material. Its dense, provides its own vapor barrier and sound deadening. Not sure of its cost. You might want to check into it.

 

[webbs2jzgte]

can anyone post pictures of their windows they did in their basement i have a similar set up and would love to see it done

 

[GYOGI65]

my basment is dry so glued 2inch blue foam to walls then attached 5/8 sheet rock with construction adheaive taped and painted been good for 17 years
floor was also done with 2 in foam then studded with 2x4 joists to 2x6 pressure treated rim joists 3/4 t&g ply carpet only humigity issues can heat with candle nicest room in house 22x36

 

[xscorex]

anyone know if you can lay click hardwood over foam? they sell and underlayment which is .50 a sq foot which provides a vapor barrier and some deadening, but foam might be a good choice if its cheaper