Framing in a pole barn

[3Dsigns]

Looking into framing between the poles on my new 72'x32' pole barn. The poles are 8x8's and the eave height is 16'. Here, I have made a drawing with two 2x4 studs between each pole, outside 2x6 horizontals 36'' on center and I will be using a pressure treated one at the bottom. Should I go with 24'' on center? Or is that necessary? The roof has 26 gauge galvalume but I was told that 28 gauge would be fine for the outside walls. This will mostly be used as a storage/warehouse for my equipment business. Thanks!

 

[racecougar]

What will the 2x4 studs bear upon?

Are you intending to insulate the building? Sheet the inside? What about door/window openings? Have you considered bookshelf/commercial girts?

 

[3Dsigns]

I do plan to insulate half of the building so, I will be framing that part differently. I haven't heard of the bookshelf framing. Will check into that. Thanks!

 

[3Dsigns]

Oh wow! Yeah, loving that bookshelf framing. That's what I will be doing. Much stronger.

 

[Codyboy]

Me I wouldn't even worry about studs. I don't think they would do anything but add more weight for the girts to support.

I would do 2x8 girts on its edge with maybe a 2x4 or 2x6 flat for stiffening side load (WIND)

Or just use steel C channel girts on the flat.
I have a welded red iron building with 2 1/2x8 inch girts that span 20ft between columns.
12ft would be nothing to span and would be stronk.

But I'm just a redneck and don't always have the best plan.

I would definitely compare the price of steel vs wood.

 

[Firebrick43]

Oh wow! Yeah, loving that bookshelf framing. That's what I will be doing. Much stronger.

Bookshelf girts by themselves are not stronger.

Most are toenailed in place and face nailed 2x4x20’ girts will out perform them.

For bookshelf girts to out perform them you either need to use expensive angle brackets to transfer the load or still put the out side girt on and glue and nail the bookshelf girt to make a T member.

2x8 to fit between the post will be much more expensive

The biggest advantage of bookshelf girts is not loosing 1.5” around the inside perimeter of the building but those are going to be a costly 1.5”.

 

[billconner]

I like bookshelf gifts. One size larger than posts so they are still 1 1/2" proud of poles, but you can make up for poles not straight. Blocking on posts - post size - between them. fastened that way they are sure to be stronger against wind and lateral forces. Also run wires outside posts. I think more valuable for insulation. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/09/commercial-girts-what-are-they/

 

[3Dsigns]

looks like these steel girts go on the outside, making more room inside the building.

 

[Firebrick43]

looks like these steel girts go on the outside, making more room inside the building

If you are just storing things, that is how most pole barns are made, but with wood 2x4 on 24" centers.

There is no reason a 32' wide pole barn for storage and is not insulated needs bookshelf girts, especially not 2x10's like Bill is suggesting

Here is another members barn, @zkdiesel , that is much larger than yours, that will be just fine with 2x4's on the outer face. This is how the vast majority of pole barns are framed across the country.

 

[Codyboy]

If you are just storing things, that is how most pole barns are made, but with wood 2x4 on 24" centers.

There is no reason a 32' wide pole barn for storage and is not insulated needs bookshelf girts, especially not 2x10's like Bill is suggesting

Here is another members barn, @zkdiesel , that is much larger than yours, that will be just fine with 2x4's on the outer face. This is how the vast majority of pole barns are framed across the country.

I suggested 2x8 wood girts with a flat 2x4 or even 2x6 because he has a 12ft span between posts.
Also I would place the girts at around 4ft, 3ft, 3ft,3ft .

 

[billconner]

If you are just storing things, that is how most pole barns are made, but with wood 2x4 on 24" centers.

There is no reason a 32' wide pole barn for storage and is not insulated needs bookshelf girts, especially not 2x10's like Bill is suggesting

Here is another members barn, @zkdiesel , that is much larger than yours, that will be just fine with 2x4's on the outer face. This is how the vast majority of pole barns are framed across the country.

I was addressing the insulated half as well as strength. Found the ability to adjust for not perfectly straight and plumb posts interesting.

 

[nadogail]

It's a Barn, not the Taj Mahal.

 

[racecougar]

Exactly why I asked all those questions in post #2. Bookshelf girts are pretty great if you're going for an insulated and finished building. If it's just a pole barn, and at this stage of construction, it's not worthwhile.

BTW, when using laminated posts, the bookshelf girts can be end nailed, but that doesn't apply here.

 

[ericm]

The way they built my Cleary building was girts on the outside spaced at 3', similar to the pic that @Firebrick43 posted. For the part of the shop that's insulated and finished, they hung these big blankets of insulation, after partly driving in thick nails at a 45 degree angle on the inside of the girts to hold the insulation up. Then more girts and liner panel on the inside to finish it. Also a layer of house wrap on the outside to keep the wind out.

If you're using liner panel (29g r panel painted white) the girts are sufficient to support it. I'd only consider framing if you're putting in drywall, which will show minor unevenness more than the liner panel. But drywall seems wrong for equipment storage to me.