Framing interior of a pole barn

[mattlikesbikes]

Shell is up and slab pours tomorrow. getting ready to frame the interior next week.

We have 5ft center trusses and will run joist hangers between them at 24" to support drywall on the ceiling of a 26x26 corner of the building that will be our apartment. The barn builder recommended we take the interior walls right to under the truss, so they provide a some support to the trusses. Fine, happy to do that, but trying to figure out how tight to make them so they still can stand up under the truss. Do I build the walls 1/32 or 1/16 or 1/8 shorter than the truss to floor height? Or 1.5" shorter and add a 2x4 block under each truss?

Not sure how tight I can get away with and still rotate up the wall.

Also, one wall is 26ft, uninterupted (no plumbing), but I think that is probably too much to stand up myself. 13ft seems more reasonable, right?

 

[astroracer]

For the wall under the truss, build it in place. The wall isn't required for support so run the studs up alongside the lower chord of the truss and screw/nail through the truss to attach them. Toenailing into the sill plate as you normally would.
For the uninterrupted wall build in 10' sections. 2 10 footers and a 6. Just layout the pattern as if you were building it in one section. Add a doubler over the sill plate joints if you feel the need to. Use PT lumber for the sill plates.
Mark
Also 24" OC is fine for these walls as they are not load bearing...

 

[The Cobbler]

If I was doing the non load bearing wall, I would fasten steel stud track top & bottom, stick frame wood studs ( or steel) and fasten them to the steel stud track . put a 1" styrofoam under the bottom track to keep it off of moisture. easy peasy

 

[Innovate1]

Having a non-supporting wall support the trusses seems like an odd idea (to put it nicely). The trusses should be self supporting and have margin built in. For center walls in a home ideally you want some way for the truss to be able to lift a bit as moisture and other variables make the truss move a bit and a minor amount of give in the drywall so it doesn't crack. May be different in a pole barn depending on where the poles support the truss - not that familiar with pole barn construction although I helped build one many years ago.

For the allowance of truss lift you can put blocking between trusses and then put a large nail through a hole drilled slightly oversize into the top plate, leaving the head up a bit. Then screw sheet metal angle to the top plate and attach drywall to that rather than the trusses and leave the other screws into the trusses back at least 12".


Google "truss lift" and you will get some hits on it.

Another reason not to do it is the slab may settle slightly. Don't want the trusses supporting the walls too.

 

[BB Sig]

36x46x10ft, with 36ft trusses on 5ft centers and posts on 10-12ft centers. The apartment will be about 26x26 and in the bottom left corner. Leaving a 20x36 garage and a 10x26 shop area. The garage will be pull through, with a 16ft garage door on one side a 10x10 roll up on the other, centered off each other.

Is this wooden trusses or metal?

 

[mattlikesbikes]

wooden 2x6 trusses, 36ft span, 4/12.

Our shop builder told me they are not designed to support the weight of drywall or the additionally framing to support the drywall. So to take some load off, essentially make the walls load bearing. Which is fine, but the slab is 4" floating, so not really crazy load bearing either.

I'll do my best to wedge some walls in. Probably build them 1.5" short and throw in a second top plate to wedge them in. Nail all the walls together, but maybe not toenail them to the trusses. so they can be independent of each other.

 

[mattlikesbikes]

Further question. if we are at 9'9" ceiling height, starting to price lumber. Can I get away with using 8ft stud walls then adding shorty walls above, to get to 9'9"? The $2/ board extra cost of 10' lumber seems silly.

Also, going with bookshelf girts, but one wall the posts are spaced 11' 3", so do I need to do that whole wall in 12ft 2x4, or can I throw a faux post in there and do a set with 8ft girts and then a second set with 2.5' girts, with a post between. That wall will eventually get a full plywood skin. Alternatively I guess on that wall I can do traditional framing, but on 8ft studs with the short block above as well.

 

[The Cobbler]

if you insist on scabbing 8' lumber, I would alternate the splices at the top, bottom, top, bottom etc .
how many studs are you talking, is it worth the extra work to scab 8' lumber?

 

[mattlikesbikes]

Nevermind, 90ft of wall, just isn't worth the extra effort to save $100.