Framing opinion needed

[RetiredandBusy]

I have a garage I'm building that has 3 garage door bays. My question is how is the best way to frame it? I'm attaching a snapshot of the framing plan. There is a 4" curb. I know just having king studs in place let's me get to the headers, but I'm not sure if the best way to frame it out. Suggestions? One more note, I know a need an additional jack stud on each side of the doors.

 

[mike93lx]

What do you mean about the best way to frame it out?

I'd build it to the plans on the ground and stand it up

 

[billconner]

It seems to have just the minimum lateral bracing with two 4' panels, but I would probably frame it as if you didnt have the minimum lateral bracing.
Can't get link to work. Google "apa narrow garage door"

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

If you want it to code, you’ll need these-

Lateral Systems

Information about our lateral systems products designed to support the resistance of lateral forces for a variety of structures.

www.strongtie.com

 

[CraigStu]

Is that plan approved by the county or whoever hands out permits? I know that when my SIL built a 2 car garage w/ 2 doors there were specific requirements as to the framing since he had only about 2ft width in the center and 2ft width at each end of the wall.

 

[mike93lx]

Is that plan approved by the county or whoever hands out permits? I know that when my SIL built a 2 car garage w/ 2 doors there were specific requirements as to the framing since he had only about 2ft width in the center and 2ft width at each end of the wall.

Portal framing

 

[billconner]

By the IRC, if the drawing is sealed by a Registered Design Professional, you're fine. Without knowing seismic and wind speed conditions, sheathing, and any interior walls, I don't think there's enough to give a specific answer by the prescriptive requirements of the IRC. Lots of options but generally a minimum of two 4' braced panels, within 10' of ends and not more than 20' apart, so I suspect the right end is not adequate as drawn.

The Simpson Strong tie hardware is an answer but so are the details in the APA guide. And there are other solutions, I'm sure, most likely requiring engineering. Pretty sure all of them require 2 or 3 anchors between each opening though.

Live in an area with no code enforcement? May not matter. Probably fine as drawn with 1/2" ply sheathing well fastened.

 

[yeldogt]

What's the reason for all the single doors ..... I guess you know they are not spaced. Including the man door.

Are you using in commercially? Lots of doors

 

[Toolfool]

Retired ? Older person ? I'd recommend you find someone with framing experience to help you out. I was a GC/finish carpenter for 35 years. Last house we framed ( two 60 yo guys ) was seven years ago, 4500sf. At 67, I would not attempt a large framing project in the AZ heat without some help.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

What do you mean about the best way to frame it out?

I'd build it to the plans on the ground and stand it up

That's the issue, it's a44' wall.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

It seems to have just the minimum lateral bracing with two 4' panels, but I would probably frame it as if you didnt have the minimum lateral bracing.
Can't get link to work. Google "apa narrow garage door"

Interesting. This went through a review to get the permit and was approved.

 

[mike93lx]

That's the issue, it's a44' wall.

A pro would use wall lifts or a piece of equipment like a tele handler to stand it. If you don't have access or the help, building it in sections is an option.

Who made those plans? The spacing on the doors is bad... The doors were just aligned with studs, which isn't how anyone would actually build it

 

[RetiredandBusy]

If you want it to code, you’ll need these-

Lateral Systems

Information about our lateral systems products designed to support the resistance of lateral forces for a variety of structures.

www.strongtie.com

Yes, these are in the plan.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

Is that plan approved by the county or whoever hands out permits? I know that when my SIL built a 2 car garage w/ 2 doors there were specific requirements as to the framing since he had only about 2ft width in the center and 2ft width at each end of the wall.

It went through a review and was approved.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

What's the reason for all the single doors ..... I guess you know they are not spaced. Including the man door.

Are you using in commercially? Lots of doors

Not commercial, just fun in retirement.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

By the IRC, if the drawing is sealed by a Registered Design Professional, you're fine. Without knowing seismic and wind speed conditions, sheathing, and any interior walls, I don't think there's enough to give a specific answer by the prescriptive requirements of the IRC. Lots of options but generally a minimum of two 4' braced panels, within 10' of ends and not more than 20' apart, so I suspect the right end is not adequate as drawn.

The Simpson Strong tie hardware is an answer but so are the details in the APA guide. And there are other solutions, I'm sure, most likely requiring engineering. Pretty sure all of them require 2 or 3 anchors between each opening though.

Live in an area with no code enforcement? May not matter. Probably fine as drawn with 1/2" ply sheathing well fastened.

It went through a review and was approved. Simpson tires are in the plan and each curb had 2 anchor bolts.

 

[mike93lx]

It went through a review and was approved.

I wouldnt hang too much on that. That doesn't mean they missed something or that what you have is the best way to do it

 

[RetiredandBusy]

Retired ? Older person ? I'd recommend you find someone with framing experience to help you out. I was a GC/finish carpenter for 35 years. Last house we framed ( two 60 yo guys ) was seven years ago, 4500sf. At 67, I would not attempt a large framing project in the AZ heat without some help.

It's 1069 sq ft. I haven't been able to get anyone with framing experience. Everyone is too busy around here. I'm only working in the mornings. I know about the heat - and hydration.

 

[billconner]

Interesting. This went through a review to get the permit and was approved.

As I noted, it met the minimum. Probably with the Simpson Strong tie hardware, not seen in the drawing, it's fine.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

A pro would use wall lifts or a piece of equipment like a tele handler to stand it. If you don't have access or the help, building it in sections is an option.

Who made those plans? The spacing on the doors is bad... The doors were just aligned with studs, which isn't how anyone would actually build it

So, any suggestions on how to actually build it?

 

[mike93lx]

So, any suggestions on how to actually build it?

I'm confused.

Are you looking to build to the plans or change them?

I already suggested building it in sections, so I don't know what you are asking. If you know nothing about framing, I would start by watching an entire day of YouTube videos.

Crazy framer, Perkins Brothers, Larry haun

 

[yeldogt]

Not commercial, just fun in retirement.

How are you laying out the inside ?

I say this because there may be some personal reason for the individual doors. I always liked an oversized single for parking two cars and the smaller single for the odd space. Makes for better flow -- the larger single leaves more room on the far side wall.

Same with the man door -- how is that space being used?

Flow is important .... all too often people just stick the man door on the front and now you need to leave that whole space open. Takes a lot of space -- especially if the space is deep and the work area is in the back

 

[mcbane]

Your best bet is to find an experienced framer who you can assist, since there are a number of tricks to getting your layout right the first time and getting things stood up easily. And doing framing with just one person is very inefficient. If getting help is truly impossible, perhaps buy a framing book at Amazon. Lots of options that wont cost you much and will likely save you from a mistake or two.

 

[rancherbill]

That's the issue, it's a44' wall.

To stand up walls you build it sections. Residential section are commonly 16', for this wall you have to build it so the section end in a studded section.

 

[jkuro]

Portal Framing Example

 

[yeldogt]

Portal Framing Example

Interesting ....I'm not sure I have ever heard the word "portal" ..... but -- that's more or less how I have always done it. Maybe we just called it "good" building practices?

Also, with the ability to order long manufactured beams -- makes for all around better buildings

 

[rancherbill]

Portal Framing Example

I have never ever seen a wall built that way. That would take a lot more time.

 

[billconner]

Interesting ....I'm not sure I have ever heard the word "portal" ..... but -- that's more or less how I have always done it. Maybe we just called it "good" building practices?

Also, with the ability to order long manufactured beams -- makes for all around better buildings

That's basically the APA link I suggested looking at. I'd probably not have the full length studs but not critical. Nailing pattern is - one boatload of nails.

 

[KenC]

I have a garage I'm building that has 3 garage door bays. My question is how is the best way to frame it? I'm attaching a snapshot of the framing plan. There is a 4" curb. I know just having king studs in place let's me get to the headers, but I'm not sure if the best way to frame it out. Suggestions? One more note, I know a need an additional jack stud on each side of the doors.

I assume you have some experience or at least knowledge of the actual labor/process involved and are only concerned with how to handle the length? IIf so, google 'wall jack'. A little expensive to purchase for one use as you would need 4 to safely raise the wall in one piece, but some places do rent them. Or, buy and resell new ones. Two details come to mind. 1. Do not cut the bottom plate at the openings until raised. Make temporary splices at the door openings so that the bottom is one continuous board. 2. after assembling the wall(s), place stops on the outside of the curb to keep the wall from falling off as it's raised. I use a 2x stake on the outside and braced with a second at an angle. then raise the bottom plate onto the curb.

You should be able to raise even that long wall with one helper with the wall jacks. More would be better/faster, but two people can do it. Just work slowly and safely.

If permissible to you inspector, drilled and expoxied anchors are much easier than the exact placement of wet anchors and lifting the plate over them, especially with a small crew. More costly but some things are worth it!

Trusses can be set by hand. Not fun but doable. Assuming 8-9 ft walls that is. Over that is machine time.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Know anyone with a tractor?
This is a 40’ wide by 14’ tall wall placed on J bolts.

 

[mitusa]

Are you going to have a concrete slab to build on?
What material are you using for the walls?
Rafters or trusses?

 

[rayra]

If you want it to code, you’ll need these-

Lateral Systems

Information about our lateral systems products designed to support the resistance of lateral forces for a variety of structures.

www.strongtie.com

ha, whose code? Is that code in GA? OP doesn't say where he is.

 

[Hank11]

I'd start with the outside corners and then fill in. Each outside panel would have a single top plate that was longer than that panel so the next panel could be joined to it. After its all up the second top plate goes on (lapping the joins in the first top plate) and after you string the top edge for straightness. The outside corners would include the first opening - so left side includes the walk door and right side includes the garage door.

My take on the drawing you show is that its a guide and not a perfect plan, leaving room for experienced framers to make it work. You could site build shear walls, and I would on this. Even if only diagonal bracing, but preferably using plywood let into framing. Do a search for this for examples.

The rafters will keep the wall from snaking when its all attached but while putting up the walls use a lot of bracing. Lots of bracing both sides.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

I assume you have some experience or at least knowledge of the actual labor/process involved and are only concerned with how to handle the length? IIf so, google 'wall jack'. A little expensive to purchase for one use as you would need 4 to safely raise the wall in one piece, but some places do rent them. Or, buy and resell new ones. Two details come to mind. 1. Do not cut the bottom plate at the openings until raised. Make temporary splices at the door openings so that the bottom is one continuous board. 2. after assembling the wall(s), place stops on the outside of the curb to keep the wall from falling off as it's raised. I use a 2x stake on the outside and braced with a second at an angle. then raise the bottom plate onto the curb.

You should be able to raise even that long wall with one helper with the wall jacks. More would be better/faster, but two people can do it. Just work slowly and safely.

If permissible to you inspector, drilled and expoxied anchors are much easier than the exact placement of wet anchors and lifting the plate over them, especially with a small crew. More costly but some things are worth it!

Trusses can be set by hand. Not fun but doable. Assuming 8-9 ft walls that is. Over that is machine time.

Concrete was already poured with anchor bolts. Not sure about the wall jack, but someone else suggested a tractor.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

Concrete was already poured with anchor bolts. Not sure about the wall jack, but someone else suggested a tractor.

And I'm using trusses.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

I'd start with the outside corners and then fill in. Each outside panel would have a single top plate that was longer than that panel so the next panel could be joined to it. After its all up the second top plate goes on (lapping the joins in the first top plate) and after you string the top edge for straightness. The outside corners would include the first opening - so left side includes the walk door and right side includes the garage door.

My take on the drawing you show is that its a guide and not a perfect plan, leaving room for experienced framers to make it work. You could site build shear walls, and I would on this. Even if only diagonal bracing, but preferably using plywood let into framing. Do a search for this for examples.

The rafters will keep the wall from snaking when its all attached but while putting up the walls use a lot of bracing. Lots of bracing both sides.

Good suggestion. It is a fairly detailed guide, but yes, a guide. I'll be using plywood for the sheer walls and lots of nails - and bracing.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

ha, whose code? Is that code in GA? OP doesn't say where he is.

AZ and it uses the IRC code.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

Are you going to have a concrete slab to build on?
What material are you using for the walls?
Rafters or trusses?

Slab with a curb. I'm using trusses.

 

[mitusa]

I assume you have some experience or at least knowledge of the actual labor/process involved and are only concerned with how to handle the length? IIf so, google 'wall jack'. A little expensive to purchase for one use as you would need 4 to safely raise the wall in one piece, but some places do rent them. Or, buy and resell new ones. Two details come to mind. 1. Do not cut the bottom plate at the openings until raised. Make temporary splices at the door openings so that the bottom is one continuous board. 2. after assembling the wall(s), place stops on the outside of the curb to keep the wall from falling off as it's raised. I use a 2x stake on the outside and braced with a second at an angle. then raise the bottom plate onto the curb.

You should be able to raise even that long wall with one helper with the wall jacks. More would be better/faster, but two people can do it. Just work slowly and safely.

If permissible to you inspector, drilled and expoxied anchors are much easier than the exact placement of wet anchors and lifting the plate over them, especially with a small crew. More costly but some things are worth it!

Trusses can be set by hand. Not fun but doable. Assuming 8-9 ft walls that is. Over that is machine time.

I think Ken has the right idea.....^^^^

Since you're using 9 foot walls, a few friends or relatives should be able to stand the wall up and raise it over the anchor bolts. A tractor would make it easier but is not a necessity.
You can also screw a couple of 2x4s to the trusses and raise them by putting one end on the wall and then the other and then pulling the 2x4s down to pull the trusses vertical. Again, a tractor would be easier.



HTHS

HTHs

 

[Walkers]

Welcome fellow AZ garage guy! I am up off Carefree Highway near Cave Creek.